Joely P

10mm spacers all round will make those offsets much more aesthetically pleasing too so it’s the best of both worlds! Out of curiosity, did you read on the website about custom drilling to 66.1mm or were you told verbally?

Although...

No, it wasn’t long after I bought that one that we had to move to give it a Zedroom!

66.1 dude, now hurry up and get them on!

It’s only 12 months (years) old!

Did someone say snow?

I thought that was just the norm, grinding the stock cam without adding meat and then just adjusting the clearances to suit is the bargain basement way!

A local company to me that build engines, also specialise in porting and head work. I had a camshaft from an Uno Turbo(!) reprofiled by them about 20 years ago and the owner showed me the process. He was very knowledgeable and gave me a little tour of the operation. At the time he used to do all the camshaft profiling and head work for Piper Cams which was quite lucrative and when I ordered a Piper cam and given a local address for the core, I thought I’d check it out. Seemingly the company is still going, I wonder if using a local company to do the work to your specification in the future would work out more cost effective?

I always thought camshaft reprofiling was the norm, adding material and profiling it down to the desired specification.

Happy Birthday Howard and Gary! [emoji482]

I understand you’ve had the car running ok with that harness though right?

That’s not a problem, the link from Andrew clarifies the alteration in the injector power supply which is just a modification in the later harness and will not affect an ignition issue. We know that you have power to the injectors as it keep filling up your pots with fuel!

None that will cause an issue if no changes have been made to your harness. Your presumption of either fuel or spark is correct but we just need to isolate exactly how. If you are definitely getting a spark we can then look into the firing order and the fuel scheduling. You also need to be 100% sure that you have connected both the coil packs and the injector connectors up correctly so you’re not chasing your tail!

Out of curiosity, did the link require any adaption or special wiring amendments to function on your late spec car? Am I right in thinking that the permanent live to the injectors are switched on the later cars? The power supply to the injectors is from pin 58 on the ECU and this is the same supply to the coil to energise the ignition coil relay etc. Checking for 12v on pin 58 is an easy way to ensure you have power to the relay with those green fuses in before you move onto a crank test.

Just to confirm, the ignition 10A fuse that is blowing is a red herring as it does not supply power to the ignition coil relay, it uses the ignition relay to power things related to the cruise control and auto box so it’s likely that you have not seen an effect of it being blown at this stage. The problem you have with that fuse is either related to your retrofit cruise control or the manual conversion but you can worry about that later. Your ignition coil relay is what you need to focus on as that is what isn’t being powered here. I’ve not reviewed a pinout of the relay itself but the switched section receives 12v direct from the battery via the green fusible link in the engine bay titled IGN, I’m assuming this is what you’re referring to as pin 5 and this will give power to the PTU. In order for this relay to power the PTU, it requires the coil in the relay to be energised (across pins 1 and 2?), the power supply for this comes from a different fusible link in the same box titled FUEL PUMP. The wiring diagrams clearly show that this feed not only powers the fuel pump relay, but it also energises the coils to close the ECU and ignition coil relays so without both of these green fusible links in, you won’t get a spark. If you’re pulling the fuel pump fuse when cranking to troubleshoot, you’ll be inhibiting the ignition system. This is not from experience as it’s just from reviewing the wiring diagrams which I am “assuming” are also applicable to your late spec car for this system. Someone with more hands on experience may be able to prove otherwise but from what I can see, to safely test for a spark, you would want to pull the fuel pump relay and crank with both of those green fusible links in the engine bay installed. Test for a spark again configured as above and report back so we can methodically work through your issue.

Neat idea with the magnet Andrew, I’m stealing that one! [emoji106] I also use the TYP200 DOT4 fluid now but I hadn’t discovered it when the super blue was available.

Happy Birthday Tom, it’s about time you came back and told us some stories matey!

Have you removed and reconnected the main plug onto the Link ECU and are you 100% sure it has fully seated?

Last time I checked Greg (Protuner) charges £300 for the Nistune and a flat fee of £500 for the mapping regardless of how long it takes to perfect. It’s usually completed within a day but you have to be there early.

Isn’t the easiest way to port the heads to stick your air filter in a sand pit and then redline it for a few minutes?!

I was referencing your lack of video evidence of your new found anti-horn fail; we need proof! [emoji13]

The link to the video of the new horns in action isn’t working (present), Gary! :wink:

Welcome to the club dude! There are a few members in your region and you also have the club specialist right on your doorstep! Jimmer at PowerZed has a great reputation for keeping these old girls in tip top condition.

Your correction of Simon’s correction requires correcting. “Its head held high”!