Joely P

I like the way the rear wheels are staggered diameters to the fronts like an NSX!

Jason, you need to join in the width contest...

Absolutely go back to a stock nose panel without the vents, that should cure your damp weather issues assuming your filters aren't still exposed. As for the Throttle Position Sensor fault, this will also quite likely be causing some issues for you. If there is a fault with the TPS, setting it up correctly will possibly transform the way your car feels to drive, particularly being an auto as the autobox relies on information from this to decide on shifting points. Does it feel like it hangs in a gear for too long before changing at times, or maybe feels unresponsive or delayed when you kick down? I would also advise getting the car to a reputable company such as Lee Dent to get the car properly setup with a clean bill of health. He Could probably diagnose the cause of the vibrations fairly quickly. Welcome to the club.

Oops!

Much to funkysi's disappointment, I went for a drive and ended up down "a dusty track" [emoji33] [emoji38]

Very clean Simon, good job. Now get that fan shroud refitted :)

Eileen's username was lets drift [emoji6]

Happy St George's day guys [emoji106]?

Wahey :thumbup:

Really starting to take shape now Lee [emoji106]?

Congratulations matey :)

It's difficult to advise as the market is quite widespread at the moment. If the physical appearance is tatty, it think you'll struggle to get a decent price for it, even with nice toys fitted. If it needs welding, depending on what area you're referring to, this could also significantly affect the value. At what price, in your head, do you render the car not worth selling?

They will still look good fitted with those offsets, get them fitted first and work from there. Great wheels, look forward to seeing the pics...

I had similar, after about 4 weeks I sent an email and eventually got a response but it didn't arrive for quite some time.

Still so many great members here though [emoji106]?

Happy Birthday Simon

Pwoah, she is a real beaut, a tasty purchase indeed. Look forward to updates, more pics and maybe seeing it in the flesh one day if you attend some of the big shows [emoji106] Welcome to the club.

Whilst I don't have DRL in the same effect that you're talking about, I do have an LED board inside my fog light cluster which replaces my sidelights. I always drive with them on so use them as DRL. The light definitely isn't as bright as the modern DRL systems but they're bright enough to do the job I think and being in the cluster, they don't look "too" out of place! Personally, I'm still undecided whether to keep them or not: The intensity of the light is hard to photograph but for reference, this pic is with my 55w HID kit switched on, the sunlight in the background is robbing the light from the lens!: I tend to agree that the bolt on kits you can get will possibly look a bit out of place on the Z32, however, if you do choose to fit them, I think they would look best further apart so your best option is the intercoolers vents for my vote (use a flexible strip?).

Genuine UK examples in good condition are now very thin on the ground. I wouldn't say there's a fixation on them, it's just nice to see original UK supplied cars still around.

Ideally, all the way until it terminates at another connector. The trouble is, I'm not sure how far or where it goes?

Hi mate, the electrical plug that came off that cruise control actuator, can you trace the harness back to the other end? If so, can I buy it off you?

So, the H3OOX registration has now been removed from this car and is now back on its (I assume) original mark H949CWS. I did a little bit of digging for any potential buyers and this is what I found: Between 2005 and 2008 the car was seemingly off the road as it had no mot during that time. In Oct 2008 it was put in for a test with a recorded 56,770 miles on the clock; it failed on a few things detailed below but nothing that I would consider too serious. 2 months later, in Dec '08 it was put in for another test at a different garage and failed again, on reasonably minor "wear and tear items" (seemingly not structural at least). A couple of days later it was passed by the same garage on the same mileage so we can assume that this garage did some work on it. At this point, the car seems to go off the road again for a couple of years and is not MOT'd until Mar '11 after covering only 23 miles in this time. The test was carried out at the same centre that failed it the first time back in '08, this time it passed with a couple of front suspension play advisories. The next MOT was in Feb '12 with a deteriorated front tyre advisory but passed @ 56,917 miles. In Apr '13 it failed its MOT on emissions and a windscreen washer fault showing 56,930 miles, and was then off the road until its recent MOT in January this year at the same test centre. The mileage recorded then was 56,961 where it passed with no advisories. So, in summary, information available suggests that the mileage is indeed genuine and if this car has been dry stored in the years it has spent parked up (possibly the reason for the emission failures), then there's a good chance that it has avoided the harsh winters which could result in structural issues and corrosion. Obviously a car that has only covered around 250 miles in 10 years will likely come with issues related to that so buyer beware on that front! Otherwise, it's definitely worth a good inspection for what could potentially be a very good clean car, albeit at a hiked up price which I feel is more reflective of the current climate than the original sale. Here are some screenshots of the MOT history. This should go back to 2005 but as this car only starts from 2008, would assume that it was off the road during this period. If the car comes with old MOT certs from before this time, you will get a better idea of usage before this. Here are a couple of pictures of the car as it is now: Hope this helps any perspective buyers, Joel.

Happy birthday Craig [emoji106][emoji322][emoji512]

If it's parked for long periods, it could be something as simple as flat spotted tyres. Mine does this occasionally, normally after a winter hibernation, but after a spirited drive getting some heat into the tyres, it all settles down nicely again.

If the subframe is clunking, I wouldn't waste your time and money replacing the bushes, you can buy subframe locking collars fairly cheap and are quick and easy to install. Reportedly, this action has no (or very little) effect on NVH.