Joely P

Yes. Just be careful what you buy as the rear bushings are particularly sensitive to the ride quality. Poly bushing kits are readily available but are renown to make the ride harsh and unforgiving. That's great if you're after such qualities but not so if you want a nice comfy GT car ride. For a smoother, friendlier overhaul, if it's your rear shock bushing, this can be replaced with a stock item with relatively little expense, if it's the other rear control arm bushings then you're looking at Nismo bushings as stock replacements are no longer available. Nismo bushings need to be sourced from Japan or some US sellers still have stock, but be prepared for a fairly large bill! Note that for all of these bushings to be replaced they will need to be pressed out and pressed in unless you use the "harsher" poly bushes.

I'd shoot for a work bushing. Possibly the shock absorber bushing in the lower part of the rear knuckle or any of the other several bushings in that area! I guess I wouldn't rule out HICAS joints too if you have them. As Graham says, knocks are hard to diagnose unless you can pinpoint them yourself.

Yes, our club trader Jeff @ Zedworld can sort you a reputable UK manufactured, single piece prop for a reasonable price. Out of interest, do you find that, after you've driven for quite a few minutes, the vibrations tend to fade slightly? This is typical of the bushing material "warming up" and becoming more supple and absorbing the vibrations slightly.

I'm not going to be able to make this chaps, sorry [emoji17]

Jimmer.

Happy Birthday Paul [emoji106]

Looks like a lovely car you've got there, good job [emoji106] welcome to the club [emoji4]

Overhaulin'

They can be removed if that's what you mean, they're wet installed with the window so the resin holds the clips on. They should slide off without too much drama. I have a rather large collection of glass here and I think I have a few of those Lee if you need some?

Hmm. Could you take a photo of the caliper from the top and bottom? Have you noticed whether the caliper is bolted straight onto the hub or whether they're attached via adapter brackets?

Are your calipers gold?

Great to see you saving that lovely little SWB. Those Bomex mirrors should fetch you a few quid to go towards the labour costs [emoji6]

Lovely!

I think you have more pressing matters to address here. Get yourself down to carpet right and get that issue resolved pronto! Once that is taken care of, fit the Altia sills without a shadow of a doubt, they look infinitely better.

Happy birthday dude [emoji106]

Happy birthday dude

That looks smart that, good job [emoji106]

I take my hat off to you spin for making the effort to arrange something for us [emoji106] Even if it is a tad messy! If it's ok with spin, it may be a good idea for a mod to change the thread title to something along the lines of: "Snetterton Circuit Meet - Sunday 29th March"

It is my understanding that the events and meetings section of the forum is designed for threads involving event and meetings lol [emoji13]

Yes. However, the front would require a bit of strip out to access the drain points into the front wing and the rear hose runs up inside the b pillar, so would be difficult to push up onto the drain point securely. You should be mindful of that before you remove it, possibly considering other options first.

So in summary for anyone reading this thread. This meet is to take place on Sunday 29th March. Can you confirm what time we are meeting? Also, on arrival, what is there to do at Snetterton when there are no set events scheduled? For example, can we get access to the track? Is there a cafe/bar place open to grab some lunch? Or are we literally just gate crashing the car park at Snetterton? As it stands, I'm currently not working and so am available to attend, but I couldn't confirm until a few days before as that may change!

Yes, if you take off the rear quarter interior trim panels either side of the bench seat, you can see and reach down to the point where the rubber hose joins the sill drain to reposition it. The metal drain tube at the rear is part of the sill structure, a rubber hose comes down the B pillar from the hole in the top targa channel, to join this metal tube. Unfortunately, it often gets damaged when jacking which can result in the water draining into the sill section. Also, what tends to happen is, over time, the rubber hose shrinks and becomes too short to reach the sill metal drain tube. Or in the case of the front drains, it pops off at the most difficult place to access and spills water over the fuse box and other nasties!

My word, this thread has changed direction rapidly [emoji17] I hope you pull through this situation, without using your plan B dude and that we can get this thread back on a positive track.

Not that I am aware of. Maybe try called Mike @ MJP, he may have some contacts or be able to source them for you.

There are many companies that will flow test for a lot less than that Stephen. I had a basic flow test done on mine for £25 including return postage. Although I ended up paying 90 as they carried out an ultrasonic clean and balanced them. That was from a company called blink Motorsport but there are lots of different companies offering a similar priced service. Small price for piece of mind in my opinion.