ChrisC

Front looks a bit like an Alfa 147 GTA which I love but... IT'S TRULY SHOCKING! I do like the big square box exhaust - you could get 9 zillion bhp with that :rofl:

I think a PTU from Nissan was about £360 last time I called them years ago. Try MJP or DTA on here, MUCH cheaper and they actually know what the are talking about unlike Nissan who haven't a clue. Multiple choices? LOL it's the same on them all.

It's probably just the first time it's been warm enough in summer traffic jams to fully lock up and when you pull away hard in traffic is the time you'd hear it most. Driving in the heat is exactly what it's for! Once moving you won't hear it.

Sounds like there's a bit of confusion here! There are 2 fans and 2 temp sensors. 1. Viscous fan - always turning as fixed to the engine and sound increases with revs. When cold it slips so it doesn't do much. 2. Electric fan - in front of radiator switches on when the car gets very warm in summer etc it's loud but won't get louder with revs. Not a problem that it's coming on unless it's on all the time and your needle is heading into the red. 1. ECU temp sensor - big plug on radiator hard pipe that tells the ECU how warm the water is. 2. Dash temp sensor - small connector to the gauge in the dash to show you the temp but doesn't do anything else. Sounds like this is loose and making your needle drop.

Thanks I'll have a look when I get home. Just getting some ideas together for when I'm stumped later on LOL

Those will be T28 hybrids then, which are different to a full T28 which is a much bigger turbo. I don't think they are quite the same performance wise as the ones I have but they may well just bolt straight back on. Still an improvement though. If you have standard turbo's then surely you have standard injectors?

Got my MOT early next week and one problem that was noticed once before was that the steering column has a slight bit of play in it - maybe 5mm side to side. Last time I just tightened up the bolts on the brace under the column shroud but it keeps coming loose. I haven't had a look under there for ages and can't remember exactly how it bolts up but has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible to weld it or something so it doesn't keep moving?

There's a lot to gain if you do the other mods as well but you'd be needing pipework making and different mounts etc lpus bigger injectors, remap and other supporting mods. If you can get them cheap it's worth doing but otherwise there's better turbo's available these days. I have them on my car :)

No just a drug taker :tongue: Has to be some reason for all that bling :rofl:

I've spent about £30K on something that does absolutely nothing! :headvswal :rofl: Fingers crossed it's back on the road this weekend :D

Same thing really, turning the other pulleys slower means less force is required so more left for the wheels.

Oh my godddd! 2 dump valves on a single turbo? PMSL :rofl: Unless they are identical and PERFECTLY balanced (which they won't be) they will open at different pressures so only the weakest one will sound :slap: Even if they were identical in every way you'd halve the air going through them so they'd be quieter than just one, if they even made any noise at all :rolleyes: 1 dump valve on a twin turbo? LMAO :rofl: Possibly on a sequential twin turbo straight 6 but a Z has 2 separate turbos on each bank of the V6 :headvswal You need a dump valve per side - that's why Nissan wasted all that money on 2 recirculating valves instead of 1 :rolleyes: P.S i love them and did the job properly :D

Was it an uprated clutch or standard? I'd always recommend you replace the fork, pivot ball etc as they often go straight after an uprated clutch is fitted. They don't cost much and save all this pain. At this age I'd even do it on a standard clutch to be safe.

Hi Dan, If you get stuck give me a call anytime and I should be able to help you out - 07702 333323. Are there any beeps when you switch it on? Some faults give error codes as beep combinations. Doesn't sound like a hard drive fault so your data should be OK but in the event of a proper disaster I can probably get your data back either myself or through a data recovery company I use for extreme cases. Have you got any backups? 1. SATA 2 is a newer faster version but is backwards compatible so will work with any SATA 1 stuff you've got. 2. You can set up a cheap mirrored RAID system just by adding a second drive of the same or greater capacity and using windows software to do it. Any data copied to one drive is mirrored on the second so if one fails you have a copy. Cheaper than other RAID systems which need more drives. 3. You won't get a genuine copy of XP much cheaper but try lambdatech.co.uk and scan.co.uk Another option is to download a copy of Windows 7 RC1 (Release Candidate / beta copy) and run that free until June 2010 and then buy a full licensed copy. Gets you the latest Windows software and it's free for a year. Seems reliable on my test systems at work but it's all down to the software you use. If your stuff will work with Vista it should work with Win7. Chris.

They are a pain to get under. Could do with a garage with a pit cos I'm fed up of jacking it up and putting it on stands every few days when something goes wrong LOL They are dead easy to replace if you can get under the car. Not sure if you need to take the exhaust off or if you get up the side of the box to unscrew it but it's not a big job either way.

Tell me about it! I'm on my second time round replacing everything on mine! LOL Only way to test them is to get someone to put it on a Consult and check the readings. Anyone over your way have one? Nissan will do it for you but charge about £50 I think. Might be worth doing the usual cleaning of connectors and checking your temp sensors are on securely?

Clogged air filter, O2 sensors, faulty water temp sensor, thermostat?

Worth cleaning the connectors on the PTU and fuel temp sensor as well. They go really green with corrosion and need a scrub with a small file or screwdriver. Having said that the PTU failures always start every year when it warms up! I've been here too long answering them :D LOL

The series 2 comes with an adapter harness that plugs in it's place. 5 minute job to swap luckily. You might be able to get a used one in the For Sale section on here or a new one from DTA Motorsport or MJP in the traders section. I seem to remember Nissan want £350+ for one even though they were recalled worldwide. £100 to £200 used or new elsewhere so you really need to check that's the cause somehow.

Yes I think it's under the cover in the center of the engine but it's easy to get to. You'll see a single wire plug connector goes onto it.

Some rolling road systems can try to work out transmission loss but on others they add an estimated loss depending on the transmission type - manual, auto, 4x4. Either way it's not 100% accurate and is open to abuse. Found this article that explains it quite well: "What is transmission loss? Well all mechanical systems suffer from friction and a proportion of the power fed into a system will get dissipated by friction and turn into heat and noise. Note the key phrase there - "power fed into a system". For there to be a loss there must be an input - simple and obvious yes but we'll see the relevance in a minute. When your car is parked overnight with the engine switched off, the transmission losses are obviously zero. When the car is running then some proportion of the flywheel power will be lost in the gearbox, final drive, drive shaft bearings, wheel bearings and tyres. For a given mechanical system these losses will usually stay close to a particular fixed percentage, let's say 10% for example, of the input power. So if the car is cruising and developing 20 bhp then 2 bhp will get absorbed as friction - under full power, say 100 bhp, then maybe 10 bhp will get absorbed. Now it is true that not every component in a transmission system absorbs a fixed percentage of the input power. Some components like oil seals and non driven meshed gears (as in a normal car multi speed gearbox) have frictional losses which are not affected by the input torque. These losses do increase with speed of course but at a given rpm can be taken to remain constant even if the engine is tuned to give more power. Finally, the biggest source of loss in the entire transmission system of a car is in the tyres - they account for half or more of the total losses between the flywheel and the rollers. Each set of driven gears, i.e. the final drive gear or the particular gearbox ratio that you happen to be testing the car in, only absorbs about 1% to 2% of the engine's power. Ok - so how do these software systems that supposedly measure transmission losses so as to "predict" back to the flywheel bhp work. The power curve at the wheels is taken in the usual way as explained above. Then, at peak rpm, the operator puts the car into neutral and lets the rollers slow down under the drag of the tyres and transmission. The software then measures this drag (or "coast down loss") as "negative" power and adds it to the wheel power to get back to the supposed flywheel power. BUT - and hopefully you've all spotted the problem now - the engine is not feeding any power into the drivetrain while the car is in neutral - in fact it isn't even connected to the drivetrain any more!! Whatever drag this is that's being measured it has nothing at all to do with the proportion of the flywheel power that gets lost as friction when the engine is powering the car in the normal way. The engine could now be an 800 bhp F1 engine or a 30 bhp mini engine for all it matters because it isn't connected to the gearbox or feeding any power into it. Obviously this "coast down loss" is something to do with the transmission and tyres but it is not the true transmission loss - in fact this coast down loss should never be expected to change for a given car at a particular rpm regardless of how much you tune the engine whereas a true transmission loss will increase as the engine power increases because it is dependent to a large extent on the amount of power being fed into the transmission. As the engine was tuned to give more power the "true" transmission losses must have also increased to some extent but these chassis dyno systems don't, and can't, show this happening. So is there any way of really measuring the true transmission loss of a car? Yes - only one - by measuring the flywheel power on an accurate engine dyno, the wheel power on an accurate chassis dyno and taking one away from the other. There is no way of finding out the true transmission loss just by measuring the power at the wheels. So hopefully that's got you all thinking a bit more now instead of just taking for granted the "flywheel" figure you were given last time you took your car to the rollers. Even worse is the fact that some of these software systems allow the operator to just programme in the percentage of transmission loss he wants the system to add to the wheel figures. So if that isn't a nice easy way to show some big fat flywheel bhp then I don't know of a better one. It's certainly a lot easier than actually doing some proper development work to make the engine perform better - just dial in a bigger transmission loss and there you go - the same wheel bhp now turns into a bigger flywheel bhp - happy customer, happy dyno man - just a shame it was all sleight of hand. See the end of this article if you doubt that this sort of thing really happens. So what should you do when you take your car to a rolling road? Firstly, make sure you get printouts that show the wheel bhp and not just the flywheel bhp. Then at least you can see if they look sensible in comparison. If you have a desperate need to know the flywheel bhp then you will have to estimate it - there's no other way short of using an engine dyno. The corrections you need to make for cars with manual gearboxes are these: The average front wheel drive road car with between 100 and 200 bhp loses about 15% of the engine bhp as transmission losses. The average rear wheel drive road car with between 100 and 200 bhp loses about 17% of the engine bhp as transmission losses. The increase in % loss over front wheel drive is because the differential has to turn the drive through 90 degrees at the back axle which soaks up a bit more of the engine's power. 4wd cars will have higher losses because of the extra differentials and other power transmission components. A reasonable estimate of an average 4wd car's losses might be 22% to 25% of the flywheel power but it isn't a subject I have sufficient data on to be definitive. What your own specific car loses is anyone's guess - yours is as good as mine - but it shouldn't be far from the figures above. For sure though, no car in the world, unless it has flat tyres and a gearbox full of sand, loses anything like 30% of the engine's power in the transmission and tyres as many rolling road operators would try to have you believe. So take the wheel figure and divide by 0.85 for FWD or 0.83 for RWD and that will get you as close to the true engine bhp as you are ever going to know. In general though it is fair to say that low powered cars have higher % losses than high powered cars. For example, a 60 bhp Fiesta will have around 14 to 15 bhp total transmission and tyre loss whereas a 90 bhp XR2 will only have about 17 to 18 bhp loss - a smaller % obviously. By the time you get to RWD cars with engines in the 300 to 500+ bhp range, losses can eventually drop to as little as 12 to 14% or so. Another rule of thumb I use which is quite accurate is to treat the losses as being 10% of the flywheel power plus 10 bhp for FWD and 12% plus 10 bhp for RWD cars. This equation "loads" low powered cars more than high powered cars which is more closely like what happens in reality. Remember, these percentages are not "gospel" - they are good realistic averages."

Does sound quite heavy. I can easy do that in mine but it's not standard.

Have a look on the left hand side of the cam cover near the hard pipes from the radiator on the front of the engine. You should see one of the following fixed there with a harness to them. Series 1 on the left is prone to failure. Series 2 won't have this problem. 90% sure that will be your problem. Cost a fortune from Nissan dealer so don't buy one there! It will probably get worse if it is this but unless you can get it to go wrong regulalry and get someone on here to loan you a new one to test it I don't know how you'll find out for sure.

I'm not sure when the series 2 PTU came in it was a recall by Nissan and not related to the introduction of the series 2 car I don't think. There is a fuel temperature sensor that adjusts the fueling for warm starts but i've not heard of it causing a problem before.

Was it turning over? If it was but wouldn't fire up it could be the PTU (ignition unit) is failing. Quite common when it starts getting hot in summer. Early PTU's were prone to this but a series 2 unit fixes the problem.