ChrisC

Just buy a bloody boost controller you tight arsed tw@ts! :tongue: Set it to 14psi and surprise surprise you get... 14psi :D Amazing eh?! :rofl:

I'd post the pics but I know what you lot get up to with Photoshop LMFAO :rofl:

I had this when I fitted my Millennium wheel. The buttons in the centre are only for the cruise so I got rid. You can always extend the wires down from the steering column and use the control panel from your stock wheel and mount on your dash/console somewhere. The HICAS just works on the prongs that fit into the hub/boss.

There was that yes :D I've started taking the covers off tonight but only had half an hour before it got dark. Should know by tomorrow night :rolleyes:

Mine is an ASP one and they list the sizes and common belt brands and codes on their site but yours will be different.

No I don't, I'm never in mate. I spent all weekend in a jacuzzi with 3 birds, what did you do? :rofl: Did I or did I not pay for them cleaning and you said you were sending me a refund as I originally asked for them chroming but it never arrived even after half a dozen mails from you to that effect. When I did get the lights back after months they were no use. Or am I telling pork pies? If I am it would be the first and only time in 3.5 years on this forum as anyone else can confirm ;)

How do you check the cam timing? By looking at the belt? Ordered a new belt and tensioner today anyway. Got to be the belt hasn't it if it's that far out?

Just the ignition timing. I didn't have any way of checking it until I got to Pauls and was so sure it was electrical. The wierd thing is it starts and runs smooth for 10 secs then goes lumpy and stalls. When driving it feels like its holding back then suddenly goes like a rocket for 2 or 3 secs then stumbles and almost completely dies, dragging the speed right down like you threw an anchor out the back. Worried about the compression readings but it managed 400bhp at Billing :o

Not heard of Bomz but they should be able to tell you which to use and the lengths. My underdrive pulley definately needed different sizes to stock.

My Z started running really rough a couple of weeks ago and I thought it was due to the amount of rain that had come in through the bonnet bulge and caused electrical problems. After swapping the PTU, CAS, ECU, injector connectors and coils at PaulG's we finally found the problem. Checked the timing and found it's running at about 40 degrees! :eek: Set it to 15 ish and it wont run at all. The compression was reading about 120 on the front 4 cylinders but only 75 on the 2 back ones :( The 2 rear plugs had half the bottom electrode burnt off :eek: Is there anything other than a slipped belt could cause this? There was a lot of water getting onto the cam covers from the bonnet vent.

LMFAO Silly tw@t! :D I'd prefer doughnuts on the seafront ;) :D :rofl: I'm up for the afternoon meet. :dance:

I hope it's a good pub or it won't be much of a meet at 7pm - it's dark just after 8 now :rolleyes: It's a long way to come for an hour in a car park. Thought we were having a day at the seaside with sand castles and stuff :rofl:

LMFAO That's exactly what I was thinking! :rofl:

They are very loud compared to others I've heard. I've been meaning to make a small vid but the car is running a bit rought at the moment. Might have it fixed at the weekend though. I'm not sure how well they would work below 10psi TBH but it would be a good excuse to chip your car and up the boost a bit ;)

It's usually printed on the Windows sticker that should be on the server along with the SBS code ;)

No! It can sometimes make the car feel a bit vague when you up the power to silly levels but lowering doesn't affect it.

They charge for everything and don't forget the style police ;) LOL Anything un-declared can leave you without insurance and then the motoring offences will add to your problems - driving without insurance for a start. Imagine having to pay for a £30K car you crashed into because you had undeclared mods! Damages for injuring someone doesn't even bear thinking about :o

You deserve an award for your excellent advice Paul ;) :rofl:

Cheers, I was thinking that but just wasn't sure if current might run through the injector body to earth. I presume they are just a connector for each end of a coil to move the valve.

I ordered some new injector connectors from Z1 and they are the correct shape but the wires are different. On the connectors there are a thick and a thin wire but they are swapped over on the new connectors. How are they wired? Does it matter if I connect the thick to the thin one or should I cross them over so what might be a positive wire is going to the negative... Chris.

I remember reading about a big push in the U.S to get more interest in "Soccer" and they wanted to make the goals bigger so there were higher scores :xxx: :rofl:

Send a mail to Courtesy and ask if they can send it by a different method. They did this for me a while ago when I ordered a PTU on it's own and it was only a few squids.

They are good ones that they sell but you can get them from about £15 at most other places. I called in looking for a single standard wheel nut last week but the guy came back with a set of those locking ones and said "these will fit" :rolleyes: Slightly more than I was wanting to pay for a missing nut!

You could do the standard Nissan HICAS test to check if it's working. That would tell you if it's a HICAS fault or a Conzult problem ;) Here you go: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/hicastech.html

What's up with it? You could bring it along to the meet near you this weekend and let us have a look at it. I don't know anyone who has a Conzult in the north :( I want one myself but I can't spend any more on the Z for a while.