ChrisC

Replied to your PM mate ;)

By the way, when you drive with this kind of power being drawn from the alternator be prepared to see your MPG go through the floor! The battery will help minimise the strain but the alternator will be working far harder so expect it to die sooner or later. You can buy uprated alternators from ICE specialists but they are not cheap and make fuel consumption even worse. But it will be nice and LOUD! :dance:

I had a very big system in my previous car and gave up on split charging systems. More hastle than they are worth IMO unless you want to run the system when the engine is not running and still have the main battery to get you home. Seems to defeat the object of having 2 batteries for more power in the first place and with the engine off you have so much less power to the amps anyway. I'd just connect them together permanently and keep the engine running, giving you about 14v for the amps to run more power and a much bigger battery reserve for the bass when it kicks in. If you wire it to the stereo then you are only charging when the amps are on. If they are running then you won't be doing much charging! I'd wire it to the ignition then when you need to get some charge back in the system it's doing it all the time, with just the rear battery powering the system when the engine is off.

I can't believe how few Z's there are in the whole of Yorkshire. I only know about 4!

Yes the pair of Apexi filters were wet from water coming in by the headlight panel :( I put them and the AFM in the oven for an hour :D to dry them out but it still doesn't run :( I'd advise anybody who's looking at fitting a Doolz to make sure it's covered from above as it seems to put the filters and AFM in a position where the water runs though the headlight panel gaps :eek: I thought I might have to make a cover to stop water hitting the front when driving but didn't expect them to get soaked when the car was standing on the drive. I still don't know that this is the problem but it's certainly not good having wet filters. If I'd used the Blitz metal filters instead I don't think I would have this problem or they would certainly have dried off quicker. I thought when the AFM went faulty the car went into "get you home mode" and would run but only up to 2000rpm? If I unplug the AFM completely should the car start? Haven't got a spare AFM to try but i'm suspecting it's got wet and blown something :cry:

Hi 330UK Where in West Yorkshire are you? I'm near Leeds if you need any help ;)

All you need is the pipe from the booster with the one way valve and connect it straight to the balance bar, bypassing all the tanks. Mine drives fine like this and MAC1 has driven it too and didn't have any complaints.

I think the only place to go is PPS. See the traders section. They have done so many wide arch Z's now and every one looks the biz. Look at the cars they've done: Mine ;) MAC1 SMW1 MartinF Touslecoq DaveW Timmy Turbo SgtC Many more I can't think of right now...

I think the heavy rain got to my Z the other day. Tried to start it last night for the first time in almost a week and it just stuttered and died. Sometimes it would start and rev up to about 1500rpm then dropped down and died. If I touched the accellerator at all it died instantly. I found the temp sensor connector was full of water from my bonnet vent and dried it out but still no luck. Any ideas? Hoping it will just start tonight when I get home :rolleyes:

I know what you mean, it pushes back at you and you can feel the pulses as the engine fires. There is normally a one way valve between the booster and the tanks and if you connect it between booster and balance bar the problem goes away ;)

I've been seeing a Brazilian lawyer and she's exactly the same. I know what I've been missing all these years. English girls seem to think you will be impressed by tarty clothes, swearing and pukeing in the street! :rolleyes: :rofl:

You can block it off after the smaller tank that sits under the brake master cylinder or block both off completely. I don't have any tanks on mine.

Chemistry lesson anyone? LOL

I doubt that you have safety boost now anyway as the actuators that are fitted to the T28's are unlikely to be set to only a couple of psi. My T28's on 2psi seem faster than stock turbo's at 9psi! What use is safety boost if you accidentaly put 25psi into your engine? LOL All it will do is drop back when it detonates to whatever the actuators are set to which could be anything but almost certainly won't be 7psi or whatever it is meant to be. Do you know what actuators were fitted and what pressure they were set at? You should be able to fit a boost controller yourself if you can connect it to 12v and earth then connect a couple of pipes. Dead easy really.

Chris, that one isn't the chrome one. The chrome one is seriously BLING!

They only do 2 colours and they both have overdrive. I think there's chrome and silvery titanium type finish. The chrome one looks like something out of Battlestar Galactica I saw the other week - avoid! LOL I had one on mine before going manual.

I'd be up for something like that :dance:

I made my own kit in about half an hour ;)

I wouldn't be running T28's with boost jets, seems like a bad idea to me. I would be very careful as when it's working with the jets you have installed you could get dangerously high boost and damage the engine. Get a controller then you know exactly what boost you are running and can easily adjust it. You also get a boost limiter so there's no way it can go too high. You don't adjust the pressure of BOV's as Simon said, it's the actuators on the turbo's you are thinking about and they are usually a preset pressure from a spring inside them with just the amount of opening being altered with the extension of the rod. The tension on BOV's can be adjusted but it's to stop them opening on idle under vacuum, not under boost. It could be a slight boost leak somewhere causing the problem but 11psi on T28's should be pretty quick already. Does the car seem to be going OK?

It's actually spelt "Tommy Kaira" (sometimes all one word if you do a search) and they are a big tuning company in Japan. I think they did a few specials but doubt they were worth that much.

I have had an odd problem with mine a couple of times recently. Like Dave's, on startup the the steering is very heavy but there's no HICAS light and sometimes I get fluid leaking out of the top of the reservoir. After a couple of minutes it goes away.

If you are running 98 then the location will be different to what I posted above. Can't believe so many people are still using 98 these days! :rolleyes: The good thing is that .pst files WILL import into the newer versions of Outlook.

That's cheating for dummies ;) LOL

Yes the easiest way is to export the data but you can download a backup addon from the Microsoft Office site to make it easy. If you want to do it manually then the file is a .pst file stored in: C:\Documents and Settings\*USERNAME*\Local Settings\Application Data\Microsoft\Outlook Where *USERNAME* is whatever you logon to your PC as. The Local Settings folder may be hidden too ;)

It's the time off work to do it when I already have already sent pics of the car and my previous insurer already had proof. Does anybody think I would have a car like this with no alarm and immobiliser?! Don't see that a letterhead from some garage they have never heard of proves anyway. I could just print one off on my PC FFS :confused: I've been on the phone to my car insurance for various reasons every week for the last 8 months. Just sick of all the hastle.