trond

Infometer?? Does the speed sensor on the tranny work?

Finally got around to check the speedo problem... I used a multimeter on the yellow/green wire from the ecu (pin 53)... The thing is that it didn't beep when I used the other prong of the multimeter on the yellow/green wire (outlined red in picture).... So I tested if I would get a sound on some other wire. And I did. On a blue/black wire. (outlined orange in picture):confused::confused:

And it will take you 5-10 min if you get some speed bleeders from Z1 motorsport :)

Anyone know if it's much trouble to install with the engine in?

When running about 20 - 25 psi, what is the recommended gap on the spark plugs?

I used a T piece and the same lenght on vacum line from the bov's. From the t to the balance bar on the left side in the engine bay. Took the car for a spin. When I got back the vacum line to the bov where flat? So I can only conclude that either the vacum line that I bought is crap or something is wrong with the vacum setup somewhere

First: - Get a engine rebuil kit from CZP or Z1 motorsport (about $1800) - New valve lifters ($150) - Intake and exhaust valves ($384) - valve stem seal ($50) - pcv kit That would cover the basic i think... might have left something out Then i would go for: - Big brake kit from Z1 - Turbos of your choosing. (would atleast go for GT600R from Z1 when aiming for 500BHP) - New type yellow 555 injector (615cc) - 300 degree fuel rail if needed - New intercooler - DP and TP and catback And maybe doolz, chip of course or a stand alone system, manifolds. All that might get you close to 500bhp...

The 300zxclub store has some AMS front and rear adjustable control arms on group buy this month. http://www.300zxclub.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=3114

the problem is that the ssqv is not adjustable. I'll give the idle trick a try. I have one extra... Think i'm going to disasemble it and see if there are any springs inside...

checked for air leak. couldn't find any. Even used smoke to make it easier to notice. The recircs are blocked. and the dump valves are HKS ssqv.... And it seemes like the left one is the problem. And yes, though it was broken so I got a new one. Same problem..

The problem it seems is the bovs. It seems like the bov doesn't close fast enough, causing the car to die:headvswal The bov are mounted on the hardpipe before the throttlebody. The vacum adapter/control tube or whatever it's called that's on the back goes to the balance bar.

the add said Perfect fit for RHD..?? Thought they were the same on both LHD and RHD..

Does anyone know if the CarCapsule is any good? http://www.carcapsule.co.uk Or does anyone know if there is some other kind of capsule that is just as good but cheaper?

that would mean it 2" higher, right?

Is it just me... When I went from 16" to 19" the car seemes like it was higher from the ground than before. Not talking about the arches. But side/front/back seemed like it was higher from the ground than before with the 16"....

The speedo Dials works... It's the ecu that don't get a reading and because of that I get code 14. I've tried with a different ecu. Same thing. So if the speedo works, where is the next place to look? PAS or main ecu. Also where is the PAS located?

Where does the wires from the tranny speed sensor end up? Need to check if I get a signal trough the wires. Sensor itself seemed fine...

made a mistake. Going to unplugg the fuel pressure and see if it makes any differenCe. What else can cause high fuel pressure Other than the fuel pressure regulator?

Isn't the fuel pressure supposed to be around 35psi at idle? Mine is around 45 psi at idle. Tried unplugging the fuel dampner. The idle changed a bit but the fuel pressure was still 45psi??

Just get a good oil. If it's mobile1, casterol,valvoline does not really matter. I would go for full synthetic or semi if the car has some miles on it. I would go for either 0-40 or 10-40.

Begin with swapping the coil and see if it happens again on the same cylinder.

everything helps :)

try zcenter.co.uk or z1motorsport.com

I have now managed to get rid of most of the problems with the new setup... What I would like to know about is: The A/F base reading in datascan showes 110 at idle when warm. When driving it can jump from 80 to up to 125. I thought it was supposed to be 100 all the time???

Of course:headvswal But I can't find any info about the Cas disc for the AEM that Silverbullet was talking about...