trond

anyone know if 300 caliper brakes fits on a 200sx?

I had the z1 clutch and flywheel combo. The clutch was worn out at 10.000km. Think I might have gotten the NA clutch by mistake. Z1 wouldn't belive that the clutch only lasted for 10.000km. Claimed it was installed wrong. So a waste off money on me. Bought a southbend clutch from CZP that could hold about 500TQ. Really satisfied with it. A bit of an on/off clutch but still possible to do slow starts with.

Isn't the inner and outer sills you mention just at the back of the sill? Isn't there anything behind the rest of the sill to the front?

Hi I've got some rust around the sills. Front and back. So proberly just a matter of time before more shows up. Had someone weld and fix the rust about 2 years ago, but it seems like it popping up more here and there. So I thought I'd change the complete sill on both sides. Anyone know what I need and where I can get the parts? (It's a 2+2 TT) Thanks

Check maf and filters first and let it dry for a day if wet. Test the car again. If you still have the same problem, check the coils.

Z1 hicas elimination kit: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=1847

Well, found a solution. Hammer like hell on the bell housing bracket. Next problem will be to hammer it back and to make it fit again.

I used a 12 point wrench. (sorry for the misunderstanding, can't get to the two bolts with a socket.) The only thing I can use and think of to get to the bolt without removeing the turbo and oil filter setup is a wrench. not much luck with that :( Is it possible to get the oilpan in place again without removing the bracket on the oilfilter side ?

Tried socket, tried the ring end, but the bolt will not move an inch. And the bolt is now rounded. I can't think of any special options because it is so tight and there is not much tools that will fit in a tight place like that. Let me know if anyone has an idea on how to get the bolts out. Or is it possible to get the oilpan off or on with the bracket in place??

first problem:( The two bolts on the bell housing bracket at the oil filter side sits so hard that when I tried to loses it I just ended up with making rounding the bolt. I used the open side of the box end wrench. I couldn't get the the box end to fit... Any tips on how to loosen the two bolts ?

Thanks guys :) Myself and a friend will start to remove the oil pan as soon as it stops raining. Can't say I look forward to it, but at least I can start to put on the coilovers at the same time.

I was lifting the front up when the car jack slipped and the car landed on the front of oilpan and damaged it :( Also think I damaged one of the hoses for the aircon. bet it a bit. The engine did not sound good when I started the car for a brief momemt. The oil pressure was 5-6 bar. There was a metalic sound coming from about where the oilpan was. Did not take the chance. Hope someone can shed some light on this. I have never taken the oilpan of a 300zx... What can cause these bad sounds? :hang::shock:

I don't have a change to check under the car now as I'm offshore. I'm thinking about replacing the Z1 DP and TP because of a lot of rasp and buying Alloy Toyz from CZP and was wondering if there would be easier to replace the DP with the gearbox on or off?

should not be any problems to jet wash the engine bay. Just don't spray engine cleaner directly on electric contacts and be carefull when using the jet washer around the conntacts. When done. Have the hood up if the weather is nice to dry the engine bay. You can also unclip the electric connetors just to check for water. Better to be on the safe side before you start driving again

I found my water leak. It seems that the water comes from the water channel from the roof. But it seems that the water comes through the outside or around the pipe (that connects to the plastic hose by the A pillar that continues downwards).

I don't know what it is called in english, but I just those sticks that smells(like the ones they use i japanes films) Wrap them around something that they can lie in maf intake hose. Then use the boost leak detector the normal way, just with a bit less pressure. Worked like a charm.

just turned 32 (And the price in Norway IS :( ) 1990 300zx TT (about 20.000GBP) 1994 Audi A6 Avant 2.6l (6000GBP)

Also have one. stage 5. The Z1 clutch only lasted about 10.000 kilometers :( Not tried it yet but only heard good things about southbend.

Have you removed the water hoses under the plenum?

Take it for a spin and wath the temp gauge. Look for the water leak when you turn off the engine. Most likley it's the hose that goes to the turbo that's leaking.

don't know about miles. But I get about 700 - 750 kilometers on one tank and I have gt600r turbo, 615 injectors and so on.

The problem is the climate pod. Let's say I turn on AUTO and ECO. Turn of the car. When I start the car again it just goes to AUTO and I have to manually turn on ECO again. Is it supposed to be like that? Is there anything I can do about it? It's a bit annoying:cursing:

For saftey always use an aftermarket temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, boost gauge and oil temp is also good one

belive thats normal. Have the same problem

The 300 is not an easy car to do 0-60 in :( No traction control or electic stuff to help. The merc probarbly has lunch control and traction control and a hole lot of electonic to help so any driver can do a good 0-60 time in that car.