trond

ok, reved it a bit hard and lights went out :)

Checked that and replaced fuse, no change. Battery at 12.35v at idle

Hello, I started the car and got 3 lights in the dash. Red light for mission oil and diff oil and yellow for abs. Checked oil and levels. all fine. Checked codes - none Battery level - fine 12.9v Any idea what can cause the 3 lights?

Need a set of 2+2 OEM (or oem sound leveland and look alike) rear mufflers. Just need the last part containing the rear mufflers.

Could also be a bad coil

I've changed some bearing on the rear wheel axel and replaced the hicas with an AMS Hicas delete kit and of course I'm going to need an proper aligment. But for now I just need to know if it's possible to move the rear wheels more towards the rear. It's just a few inches from touching the front of the rear body corner now.

Anyone know how much oil there is supposed to be in the a/c system?

Does anyone know how the powerband will be affected with an air intake restriction for less hp? Less air, less hp, but how will this show on a dyno graph?

Thank you :)

Anyone know what the correct original offset for the european 300zx tt ? I have searched and googled and found everything from 28 to 40 on the offset.

not faulty, just need to have as low boost as possible. Need to down tune the car and turbos (GT600R) to get as close to 286hp as possible. I have a hand pump with out and in on with pressure gauge on. I had 0.85 bar boost when driving before I startet. Testet on one side after turning the rod 8 times but still it began to move at around 0.7-0.8 bar.. Will that be the same pressure when driving?

How can I check what the pressure will be before I install the actuators again? hand pressure pump or something? Will the boost pressure be the same as when using the pump? lets say the actuator arm starts to move at 8 psi, is 8psi the pressure I will get when driving?

I now need to adjust the actuators on the turbo. Can this be done while the rod still is connected?

A tip: I would use a product called FE-123 / Rustbuster in the sills first. Also came out best in test in a uk classic magazine monthly. You can mix it 50/50 with distilled water and spray it in the sills. take a look at http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28125/fe-123-rust-converter/

Would a original cv knuckle be better than the aluminium coupler on the one piece? Is it worth the extra price? Yes I know they have a core program, but not for me since it would cost more than the core in shipping cost.

the aluminium rear coupler has dents in it. But the matting of the driveshaft and aluminium coupler seemed to fit. I have always had a bit of vibration after I got the 1 piece. Thinking when I changed to poly bushing that might have increased the vibration feeling....

Got a price from s scrap dealer for a 2 piece here in Norway: £ 274. Any recommendations on a good 1 piece vibration free driveshaft??

Got a price from s scrap dealer for a 2 piece here in Norway: £ 274.

only one problem. Haven't got one. maybe order a new 1 piece. recomendation?

also check the coil plugs. I had a problem with misfire/splutter at around 4000-5000rpm. Turned out to be a bad coil.

The vibration is always there. Increases with speed. I've done 160km/h once but the vibration was so bad that I was afraid to drive faster.

I've put on a gearbox and diff and rear subframe from another car with less km and the vibration got worse than before. Even worse when I went from 19" to 16" wheels. Also replaced the bushing with energy bushing on the subframe and diff. There was no vibration from the car I took the parts from. I don't have the car right now. (in poland to change the sills) But I have tried to rotate the 1 piece driveshaft 180 degress. didn't help. (90 degree was not possible. The holes did not match on the aluminium part/wheel on the diff.) (the aluminium parts has got a few dents in it..... I'm guessing the bushing change might have enhanced the vibration ???

thanks :) new front control then.

Hi, I finally got the car on the ground again. I noticed a bit tyre wear on the inside and checked the camber. Was +1,5 on right side and +0.5 on the left side. shouldn't they be the same?

If possible plug into the ecu and see what temp the ecu temp signal is and what the dash gauge gauge shows ( If you only have the factory gauge in the dash I would get an aftermarket) - The water lines wil get hot when the car is warmed up. But check if the house out from the engine is hot. (the lower one if I don't remember wrong). - And make sure you don't have air in the system. Find a steep hill or jack up the front and run the car with the fan on max warm and air to get the air out. (run the car and refill intill the fan kicks in at about 100-105 ceclius) On ebay you can find some chemical solution you put on top of the radiator to check for head gasket leaks (don't remember what it is called) but I wouldnt bother unless you have excessive smoke from the exhaust