trond

Hi, Anyone know what micron the standar paper fuel filter is?

Anyone know if it is possible to change the manifold on a TT when the plenum is off? (tube to and from turbo also removed ofcourse)

I'd recomend southbend. Stage 5 I think. Last stage before you have to go to paddle clutch. Handles about 600-700TQ if I remember correct. I now have 560Nm on the cluth. Done 20.000km. No problems so far.

checked the fuses and the relay in the engine bay. Everything is fine. I don't get it, because there is 12v. to the xenon box on both sides. It works if I swap the bulb and box to the other side??? :confused::headvswal

hmm... i've checked the fuse but not the relay. I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks :)

Hi, I have xenon lights that I have trouble with. On the driver side the xenon light will not work. It's fine on the passenger side. I have tried to swap the bulb and that works. Also tried another ballast on both side. It works on the passenger side but not the driver side. Checked volts in to the ballast and it's the same on both sides. I'm at a loss here. Anyone have an idea what it could be

How long are the pcv supposed to last? I've driven my car about 19000km the last three years. Just been sitting in a garage during the winter. The engine is overhault and has done 19000km. changed the all the pcv hoses then.

Well, none of the spark plugs is covered in oil. seems perfectly fine. Could someone explain what this crankcase breather system is??

crankcase vent system ?? what, were, how?

I've got an oil leak that seems to be comming from the front of the gearbox underneath. The oil leak has become worse over time. So now I might have a chance of finding it. Just now when I started the car up noticed that there where air comming from the small hole in front of the gearbox. Could this be caused by the seals between the engine and gearbox? I'm pretty sure air is not supposed to come out from the gearbox:whistling:

southbend is also an option. Wouldn't recommend the Z1 cluth. have bad experience with it. didn't last more than 10.000km. very happy with my southbend clutch.

E85 is 85&% ethanol and 15% normal fuel. I downloaded the rom image from the ecu before I delivered it for tuning. Anyone know how to compare the ROM image from before with what he has done? I used Resync from ecu and loaded the old rom image from ashsped. But when I look at the fuel map it look just the same??

Here is the info I got from the tuner: (he wouldn't send me the bin file from nistune. said it could fall into the wrong hands... Can I download it with nistune?) Issue: Injectors are up to 100% duty cycle. It is not safe to drive like this. The fuel system needs to be upgraded. cailbration of Nistune bugs and do not allow full control, although all the interference features in the context of a mapping had been disabled in the context of mapping, eg closed loop lambda control and limitations in min and max. spreader times. This may be due to one of the following: - Incorrect installation of Nistune the OEM ECU - OEM ECU is chipped before and it can interfere Nistune - Loose wiring in the original wiring harness Sometimes it works all the settings in Nistune, sometimes only works one, spread scale. Sometimes the car goes badly at low loads, such as around idle. The error is common when you have problems with the ignition coil or ignition amplifier. Should be checked and corrected. The engine dies when going off throttle. This is probably due to open dump valve when the ECU uses the MAF sensor to calculate the fuel mixture. The motor does not react at all to Nistunes idle settings. Never, not even when Nistune sometimes communicate securely with div. other values, so they do not. Max turns and maximum load increased in Nistune so we can get better resolution on mapping in more power. My recommendation is that you mount a Haltech Platinum Pro plugin while you upgrade the fuel system, we'll do it properly next time. 500Hp should be no problem.

had a run today. at full boost the afr is 12.7 - 11. another thing is when cruiseing in second the afr is 12.5. in third about 13.5, fourth 14.7 and fifth around 16. I logged a run in datascan. also in nistune.(rpm,maf,injector duty and one more) if anyone want to check it for me. I can also download the info from the ecu with nistune if anyone could take a look at it and tell me if everything is ok or not with the tuning that pbz.se did.

My old aem sensor was bad. Just installed a new one today. Haven't had time to check what the afr is on full boost yet. But shows 0.85 / 12.2 with 1000rpm when engine hot and 0.9 / 13.3 at 2000rpm when i reved it. I'll to a test tomorrow and log the result in datascan or nistune if I mange to find how to do it in nistune...

sorry, a bit tired here. ment nistune, not nismo

Hi Just had my car tuned with nismo on E85. I got 422 rwhp and about 550nm torque. The person that tune the car said the injetors maxed out at 1 bar (615cc). Isn't that a bit low for the injectors to be maxed out at 1 bar and 422 rwhp? Nismo was used when tuned. fast listing includes engine rebuild set from z1 gt600r turbos from z1 nismo 615cc z1 smic doolz forged internals 2.5" exhaust all the way He said there were some problems with nismo. He was not sure if it was software or hardware? He said he should send me the log... Just have to wait for that. What do you guys think? isn't it a bit ow with 422rwhp on E85

The place that is going to map my car told me that I had to remove the apexi safcII because there would be a problem with nistune ånd safcII. Is this true? If it is how do I change to Doolz with 2 maf sensors in nistune?

Hi Just wondering if anyone else had problems fitting the plastic under the car/engine when installed aftermarket bumber and fenders? I've got a blade front and viper fenders.

I might have some engine temp problems. I have tried two autugauge temp readers and sensors and two ecu temp (the old and a new one shows the same). AC off The autogauge shows about 120 degrees before fans kick in for full. The ecu shows 105 degress. AC The autogauge shows about 115 degrees The ecu show 100 degress. The original dash temp stays in the middle all the time. Same in both nistune and datascan. How can I find out what the correct temp actually is?:confused1:

Had to remove the needle to get the plasma dial on. If possible i'll try to change the resistor, so would appriciate the write up if you find it :) Thanks:)

Hi I have a small problem. I've installed plasma gauges and managed to damage the Kph speedo when removing the dial. So I had do use one with Mph... Is there a converter that I can buy or somehow calibrate the speedo ??

Might try to heat to see if they lossen... I don't know if that might damage the coilovers but I would try it before bying new ones.

Thanks :)

Hi I have installed the Z1 hicas bar and removed the hicas + tubes to the back. But I was wondering if the hicas light was supposed to light up when the job was done. Do I have to remove the bulb?