trond

Hi I can't edit my ride section anymore. It was no problem last time I tried. What has changed ? cheers

Hi everyone. Hope someone could give me some hints about my problem... I had the car at MOT last month. They said there was too much slack in the steering. I have checked the steering knuckle and bushing. I can't find any play.. I have a little slack in the steering, but that came after I changed the steering pump. Could air in the system cause slack in the steering ?? I have tried to bleed the system. But can't see any signs of air in the system. The oil is a bit over max, does that have anything to say?

There is a limit to how much air you can get through a single filter. More air more power. If I remember correct a single filter should be OK up to about 450hp.

I also have doolz with apexi filters. I had a similar problem that the car juddered when cruising. No problem if the weather was nice. Tried the air filter cover that I bought from ebay(no luck). Installed a second MAF and SAFCII. The car ran better nut not perfect. I then Installed the original plactic cover under the filters. Works perfectly now. Check that the filters are dry after driving in the wet. If they are dry then move on... Test the MAF or swap with one that you know is working. If the maf is fine, then try to cover up the filters some more. You could cover up the front and take the car for a quick spin and see if that helps. (just watch the water and oil temp when you cover the front up and don't drive too hard or long)

Hi A few weeks ago I had a leak in the lower high pressure hose. Because I had to drive the car from Sweden to Norway I constantly had to refill dexreon fluid. I started to get a mettalic rattle at the end of the trip. The rattle dissapeared the first times when I refilled with fluid. But after a short while the rattle was constant. It rattles less when the lights and other electricity is turned off. Also seems to dissapear when reving the engine(Might just dissapear with the engine noise??) I have now replaced the steering pump with one from my other 300zx part car. But the rattle is still there. Anyone have any idea what else it might could be?

Just had a look at this new HLS serie from KW. Would be grat to have something like that for the Z, wouldn't it? http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/30_Products/21_KW_HLS/index.php

Hi I need to upgrade my brakes and would like to know if this set is any good! This set is a big brake kit from Revolution Brake LLC. Price is $800 dollars + shipping. The set includes: ROTORS, 323mm diameter, 30mm thick (about 12 3/4" x .1.18") curved vane directional, cross drilled. The curved vanes are designed to pump air through the rotors as they rotate for superior cooling in high performance driving conditions. The huge thermal mass and cooling efficiency of these rotors virtually eliminates brake fade. These are 43 mm larger in diameter than the little stock rotors!!! CALIPERS, Wilwood forged Superlite four piston fixed mount. These calipers are extremely rugged and light to help reduce unsprung weight. The forging process allows for a very strong rigid design without the use of excess material, they are super light (4.5 lbs compared to stock caliper around 9 lbs each). For more information look on Wilwood's site, http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers Don't be put off by their excessive use of "racing", it's all about liability. These calipers can be found in Wilwood street kits also, though they are equally at home on the track. PADS, Wilwood BP10 'Smart Pads' low noise, low dust compound designed for high performance street use. For more information on this compound look here: http://brake pads.wilwood.com/01-selection. This is the best street compound on the market!! MOUNTING HARDWARE: Adapters are heavy duty steel, powder coated for corrosion resistance and appearance. All hardware is grade 8 and 10.9 or better including flat washers. FLEX HOSES: Stainless steel braided Teflon hoses are included with fittings specific to the Nissan chassis.

I had to replace my rear main seal and had to take the clutch out. I've done about 600 kilometers with the clutch and flywheel from Z1. I discovered I had the same problem as Bird.

Does anyone know if the manifold are the same for LHD and RHD? It's the same engine so the fitment should be the same, right??

Anyone know what colour the member Shrek has on his car? looked nice. (seems my membership has expired so can't PM for the moment)

YEWCHEK: Do you have a picture or a colour code?

Anyone know what colour this could be? Really like to have this colour for my car

Might want to check the speed sensor. (Had the same problem with my car. The ecu didn't get a speed signal).

I want to swap my manual transmission with a better one that I have. It does not have oil coooler since it's a jap spec. So my question is: Is the oil cooler for the transmission really needed or is it just overkill?

I have an apexi avcr boost controller. The vacum hose goes directly from the turbos to the com port on the apexi solenoid. Is that wrong? Because nothing changes whatever boost/duty I set. Note - At the time my speed sensor to the ecu doesn't work. Don't know if that have any thing to do with it... And I'm pretty sure the wastegate actuators was adjusted a bit because of fitment issues. Can that have anything to do with my problem? I have boost. But too much I think. Goes right up to 1.5 bar (thats when I went of the throttle) no matter what I set the boost controller at. (gt600r turbos)

Wouldn't adjusting the fuel pressure help??

I was thinking about a 70% gasoline and 30% ethanol mixture. Or maybe 80-20 mixture. And just enought fuel/ethanol for the test. 10 liters maybe... Also, I have the new style injector. They should withstand ethanol.

We have something called eu-kontroll in Norway. Same as your mot. About the emission test... Like many others I don't have the cat on my car anymore. What about mixing ethanol e85 with gasoline.to pass the emission test? Wouldn't that lower the emissions enough to pass along with the fuel dampner trick?

I do not know to much about the suspension, so here goes... Do I need any extra parts with a coilover set? Like camber arms and so on??

So it's just the Jap spec that don't have oil cooler. Thanks guys:)

Does the manual transmission have an oil cooler?

a better picture....

Anyone know where I can get a hold of a pin like the ones in the picture? And what they are called?

Anyone know if it's possible to make a switch so you can cut the power to the fuel pump? Would be a nice extra security with a hidden switch...

Can I just replace the Y/G wire with a new one to the ecu?