trond

I understand that is under new management and the post on 300zxclub.com is positiv so far...

Wouldn't around 450rwhp be possible with the Z! kit if the boost was raised? Have you done some internal engine mods??

Think it is flywhp (gues around 430 rwhp on pump fuel). And yes have all the things listed in the 400bhp kit. The turbo is called GT525 qoute from Z1 page: When you are ready to go above and beyond where the stock turbos can take you, but you still want the response and reliabilty of a stock TT, Z1 offers the 500 hp TTZ pack. link: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_343&products_id=1080&osCsid=aadb1729af992261f1ea10064063cbea They got a 600hp kit also that they rate at about the same level as JWT sport 530BB, So gues GT525 turboes is about the same as JWT sport 500... And nend.. that engine is far more than I need... I think...

Aiming for around 500hp and the kit from Z1 seems good. Can I keep the engine stock or do I have to replace some parts?? Also.. Got a manual but might put in an engine from an auto. Is there anything that needs to be done/replaced?

Hmm I might remove my engine myself with pictures of the progress like this:) :) They wanted around £900 to remove the engine at a workshop here in Norway.:(

I've been looking at AMZ total twin turbo engine package for rebuild. What else do I need?

Well, done the compression test now.... and the results are: 6: 9,9bar 5: 5,6bar 4: 10bar 3: 8,8bar 2: 9,9bar 1: 9,8bar

Going to do a compression test this weekend. Where are the pcv located and anyway to check them?

Got a burning smell from the engine some time after an oil change... Today I found the source. The oil dip stick. There is white smoke comming out from it... :shock: That can't be good...???

Searched courtesy nissan web site but couldn't find the fuse....

As in picture... Not an electronic expert... But fuse smelled burned and felt like it was broken... Is it possible to just change the wire on the fuse or to I have to get a new one? And will the cars electronics work without that fuse??

In case I've done something wrong with the amp connections.. There are 3 wires to connect. One black that is ground and is mountet to the amp with an 8mm. Another black from the sylinder formed thing that was mountet on the amp that goes to the battery connection (regulator maybe??) The last that runs together with the plug to the amp. That one also goes to the battery connection on the amp.

Have just changed my alternator. Filled up with water and so on. Connected the battery. Flat battery So had another car and hooked up the wires from each car. Did hook up ground first and the + last on my Z. Got a small spark. But instanly as I had hooked up the + there was smoke around the battery. Checked the fusible link. The only weird thing I could find was that the fuse to the left with the wire smelled burned.... Everything is black when I turn the key in the ignition. Only thing that work is the main beams. But that is also wrong since it should be normal driving lights when lights is turned on. Other than that everything is BLACK:( Any ideas on where to start.. want my baby back on the road again...

Can anyone recall what size the bolt on the backside of the alternator is?

Anyone got a picture of this nut that is supposed to be at the backside of the alternator ??? Think I lost mine when I swaped alternator ...

might be a stupid question, but can the 300zx TT run on Ethanol E85?

not any hints on what the sound that comes right after I let of the throttle right after i've reved it??

Not the best quality since it mobil film. Zip file. Download, unpack and watch( hear) Anyone know what this sound is?? Worries me...

Well, checked the car this morning when I could see something... The alternator and fan belt are moving:) But the HKS turbo timer shows about 11.8 to 12.3 V. The battery shows 12 - 13 V after a while.. The fan works.. but very little power/air flow. Doesn't the alternator either work or not?? Or can it be the that the belt is to loose??

bumb.... the belt feels firm and tight

As written.. Happened when I had to speed a bit in an intersection to get out before another car. The back end came out. Pressed the clutch a short moment to get controll over the spin and continued... When I looked at the dashboard a few seconds later the battery light came on faintly... Stoped the car at home and saw that the lowest belt didn't move at idle. (Heater in tha car also stopped working) As far as I can se it's the Fan & alternator belt. It was dark so I could not see if the belt had snapped... Any other ideas that you guys can think of that might cause the belt to stop moving...

hmmm.. 221 Fahrenheit = 105 celsius It's says in the manual that the fan should go on at 105 celsius. (mine does that) But Isn't that a bit much??

When is the fan supposed to kick in? Without air con or anything on my fan doesn't kick in before about 104 degrees...?? Isn't that a bit high?? (The aftermarket gauge and ecu shows about the same temp. Few degrees off between them. Standar gauge stays at the middle)

I just followed the info on twinturbo.net on the apexi avcr setup. (self learning mode) When is the car supposed to have full boost?? The rattle. Not easy to describe. Metalic rattle. seems to come from the top of the engine. Difficult to pin point.. from the middle of the enigne maybe.. seems like it is all around the engine... Also got a rattle when i'm nearing 7000rpm. Had a mechanig hear at it and he didn't know what it was.

First one... Is there anyway to get the boost to build up faster with the apexi avcr boost controller? I don't get full 0.9 bar before around 4000rpm. Second one... I've got a rattle from the engine. Only done this from the engine.. Comes when I rev the car and suddenly goes of the throttle cable. :shock: than disapears again. :confused: Not enough rev and hard enogh to make the dump valve make any sound though. HELP