trond

ok. trying to upload datascan logg again

datascan logg..

So new 02 sensors. Will the A/F ratio go back to normal again then?

Theres no flicking. The 02 sensor flicked once when I reved the engine to around 5000 - 6000 rpm. That static again..

static at idle

under idle.

Here are the results: O2 sensor: 28 02 sensor RH: 46 RPM: 950 Water temp: 88 A/F ratio: lean (as always...??) Air flow: 1,20 AAC: 20 A/F base : 109 Duty cycle: 0,62

Anyone willing to take a look at the logg from datascan?

The A/F was lean 99% of the time. Jumped to ritch twice on the log. One time under driving (Floored), another time when I was standing still and just reving. (4000 - 5000 rpm). Other than that. Just lean mixture

Well. haven't really taken the time to learn datascan. Is it the A/F ratio that I should look at?? Logged a run. Don't know what to look for... I would be grateful if anyone could tell me what to look for or look at the logg

Think soo. But had som issues with that myself. Got the code sometimes when the car had trouble starting. When it was wet or cold and the starter wouldn't kick in right away....

I've got datascan!

suscpect that the o2 sensor don't work as they should... any way to messure them or something. Also suspect a vaccum leak... Fitted an apexi boost controller. I don't get more than 0.4 bar when I turn it off... And no ecu error codes. Tried to reset the ecu too but made no difference... just need to make a vacum tester............

wouldn't the 02 sensor come up when you check the ecu for failure codes??

Had my car at what you call a MOT test. Failed because Co2 was to high. even tried to pull the pipe to the fuel dampner. Only one ecu error code number 54 when I checked. (need to replace my ecu soon) (and yes it is a manual) Soo, any tips to what I can do to get the co2 down? Going to check the plugs of course.

but applying heat to the front. What will that to??????

:headvswal Hope you guys can give me some pointers here... Bought a front from a company called NMI styling. Fitment around the front lights is fine. But it's the side ends on the front that's the problem.. :headvswal Sticks out around 5cm on on side and 3 on the other side. I'm afraid that the one screw that hold the end in isn't enough. IF I can manage to press the side in.... Someone suggested to apply heat on the front under pressure. :confused: Not an expert on fiberglass. But can't see how that would help?? I would really appriciated any hints on what I could do in order to bend the front enough to make it fit.... :bow: :bow:

Just been wondering.. how does the AEM Plug & Play Engine Management System from stillen work?? Lets say the car is standar with 300bhp. Can I increase boost with that instead of buying a chip? And if I change to some aftermarket parts later on.. can I make a new setup with.. lets say.. 555cc injectors and new intercoolers and so on without replacing the chip? As I understand if I have an AEM then I don't need to have a chip from JWT or any other...

I just hooked up all the + wires to a single + and the same with the -/negative ones. And they are off intil I turn on the cars lights. Worked fine since it is required by law to have lights on all day in Norway.

Has anyone had a problem with the hicas light comming on after idleing for a while?? Dissapears if I turn the engine off and on again?? Haven't looked anymore at it. Just wondered if anyone else knew something about it?

Heard good things about pace. But can't seem do find a web site with their products??

Need to replace my stock smic. There are a few to choose from. Greddy, HKS, Stillen, Z1 motorsport. Grom what I've heard the greddy and hks isn't that good.. So it's got to be either Stillen or the ones from Z1 motorsport. What would you recomend and which is the best?

Receipt Number: 2886-0985-2400-3562

Just payed 20. Name: Trond Skisland. Username on this forum: trond

Ay! It was trond. Got a mail yesterday to activate the account again. Changed the e-mail adress. So everything is fine now :D Next step . . get subscriped for trade