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trond

Dormant Member
  • Joined

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  • Country

    Norway

Everything posted by trond

  1. New day. It has always been a turbo so that was not the issue. Used some oil on the one end and it popped right in :) good start.
  2. I've been working on the car from 08.00 to around 22.00 when I gave up for today. I was about to put the one piece driveshaft back but couldn't get it to fit. On the end that goes in to the transmission I noticed a cap (don't know what the correct owrd is in english) at the end. I couldn't see any cap on the transmission female part... Am I just tired and missing something? Can't remember it being difficult to install the driveshaft...
  3. Just finished getting the rear subframe and diff on the car again. And noticed that the rear lower control arm is a bit worn. Was about to order when I noticed that there was OEM parts for NA and TT. TT more expansice offcourse. But what is the difference? I could make out any difference on the pictures....
  4. Hi. Since one of the bolt where rusted and the other broke I ordered new ones from czp. There is two sizes to the bolt. The end into the rear of the diff is ok, but I have problems getting a hold of a nut that fits the bolt on the subframe side on the bolt. Anyone know what size it is? I know it's M14 but that is about it...
  5. I have a neighbor that is from poland. He is currently takling to 2 shops outside gdansk that repair old veteran cars about a complete change of the sills. I haven't got a price yet, but as soon as I do I can post it. I'm going to buy all the replacement sill parts I can. Makes the work for the welder easier. Since the cars are as old as they are, and I think they are worth repearing then the best solution is to get rid of all rust (inside) the sills, and hopefull it'll last another 10-15 years. And to extend the hoses inside the sill!!
  6. Are you able too remove the whitter towbar when not in use?
  7. After a bit of searching I was able to find this one. http://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/11703/installsheet/CM_11703_INS.PDF What do you think?
  8. yes, tow hitch. Great to have when needed for towing a caravan. And to be able to take the tow hitch off when not in use and the caravan is parked :) That way we can take the 300 instead of the audi allroad :)
  9. Anyone heard or seen a 300zx with a hitch? Thinking about getting something for my 300. Ideally one that I can take off when not in use
  10. Invest in a second water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. That's something everyone with a 300zx should have.
  11. A lot of info- thanks :) completly forgot about the electronic inside the car. Just thinking about the work with rewiring makes me :cursing: I have all the other parts. But it would be a bit of a shame to use a good ccar for a donor. So I've decided to leave the 2000 model project then. What's so different with the 99 spec interior ?
  12. Thinking about importing a 300 from japan - 2000 model maybe - at least as new as possible. How much work is it to make a RHD drive into a LHD?
  13. Anyone know if it's possible to buy complete sills to the 300? inner, outer and everything? It has startet to rust from the inside and I want to change everything.
  14. OK, since the transmission cooler i basically just a loop and just like the diff coller don't start before you drive faster than 120km/h and if the temperature gets to hot the warning lights will show in the dash when the tran and diff cooler starts then I don't see the point in having it. If the warning lights goes on when driving you are going to stop the car anyway (well at least 99,9% of us is going to do that). Thanks for the info. I am removing the trans and diff cooling
  15. OK, since the transmission cooler i basically just a loop and just like the diff coller don't start before you drive faster than 120km/h and if the temperature gets to hot the warning lights will show in the dash when the tran and diff cooler starts then I don't see the point in having it. If the warning lights goes on when driving you are going to stop the car anyway (well at least 99,9% of us is going to do that). Thanks for the info. I am removing the trans and diff cooling
  16. I'll change the question since I didn't get any respone in my last post :( Has anyone heard of any other Z owner that have had problems with running without diff and transmission cooler ?
  17. Where to start? It starts then dies.. It wont run even if you try adjust the engine rpm with the pedal? Have you changed injectors?
  18. I am considering removing the cooler for the transmission and diff. I only use the car on the road and track driving not so much to nothing since it's over 400 kilimeters to the closest track. )had the car for 6-7 years now and still haven't been on the track:huh: I am replacing my diff and trans and the other parts do not have trans or diff cooling. Any special reson why I shouldn't remove the cooler ?
  19. There is a slight gap on the butterflies. The car still needs air at idle.
  20. was looking for a new one, but is there any rust on it?
  21. Hi. Anyone know where I can get a hold of a fuel tank filler neck for a 2+2? checked czp.us and z1motorsport. Couldn't find anything....
  22. Turn the boost settting to OFF (not A or B) check what boost pressure you get. Before you use setting A or B again check that every line is connected correct to the AVC-R. Check that the vacuum line is correct on the solenoid. (if I remember correct: from wategate to COM side. From turbo side to on on the solenoid) Also check the connections to the ECU.
  23. have you tried adjusting the duty cycle?
  24. have you tried adjusting the duty cycle?

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