Alic

Or probably that yeah. The invertor doesn't have a multi point plug.

Does sound like a lot of unreliable electronics. The black box could be an invertor for lighting up the 300zx in the rear centre panel but may not be working.

I would like to add however that the main core did fail to land. 3 of the 4 thrusters didn't reignite so it crashed 300ft away from the drone ship at 300mph.

If you fancy a jaunt to mid Wales in the summer you could pass by my place, and fix any cars broken down on the way [emoji23] I'll be there for a week or two doing jobs to dad's zed (manual conversion, engine mount replacement, bits and bobs)

Get 35 profiles on the front also, it will look more even. It's 1cm skinnier so not the biggest effect, but do make sure you don't get offbrand cheap tyres

Good start Si. Also dont forget my requote entirely :)

Happy birthday Steve

No. Bin.

1. Craig 2. Alic +1

To basically to simplify our discussion here would be an example spectrum of tyres to use: budget sport tyres - nankang - pzeros - eagle F1 - pilot sport cup 2 That's based on grip specfications on tyrereviews.co.uk (to standardise results) Its your choice where you go on this spectrum. You get more for what you pay for, and I want to be safe with a powerful vehicle which is why I went for the pzeros (I dont want to do a Dan :innocent:), but it does still come down to budget.

In the interest of discussion, stock brakes can lock up even sticky tyres, hence why they have an ABS unit. That means that the brakes are exceeding the tyres grip. The thing stock brakes are especially bad at is repeated stopping.

Also bear in mind that supper grippy tyres in the dry, such as semi slicks will score terribly in the wet.

Stephen maybe your Z has been off the road for so long, but a corsa hasn't got anything on a Z, power wise at least.

If this was a Facebook discussion it would be the cheapest tyres possible, and 10cm too small for the rim because I bought the wrong wheels :lol:

I'll keep it on my mind, it will be late March and I'll have to double check it doesn't leak either as then are a pain to replace. Unlikely to pass MOT yes. Correct if you take the indicators out you can just reach the 3 10mm nuts on the back of the fog light, and then unplug them.

Sometimes the throttle cable can be too tight and hold open the throttle. This dial (on series 1s its on the outside and later cars on the other side of the throttle body) should be touching the stopper. When adjusting the cable you should have it so the cable will be as taut as possible without actually starting the move the rod. This way there won't be any deadplay in the pedal. If you do adjust it be sure to set the TPS to 0.44v to ensure it knows its shut. Steering rack you can get used (I might have one in march), or you could look into having it rebuilt, the rack speeds are different NA/TT but they both fit. Exhausts are easiest to get used, just put a wanted post up and see what people have for sale. There *are 2 lamps in the fog light but there are two switch live wires that feed it, 1 for side and 1 for fog lights. What's the spec of your car? what year, TT/NA, manual/auto?

Check for any vacuum leaks and TPS (make sure throttle is completely closed) and then you can adjust the iac if okay. I read correct your rack is pissing fluid? You probably need a new rack. Exhausts can be sourced reasonably easily £100-200 usually. If the fog light switch is engaged the side lights will be on, but the fogs won't be on with the side lights. Check the door is at the right height, and if a S1 that the seatbelt bolt is all the way in (ive seen some crossthreaded and will foul on the bottom). Damage to the bolster is common, the seats can be completely retrimmed or you can get some others.

I understand that grip is important for drifting (allows more control and carry more speed), but I'd prefer not to buy from a brand that perhaps designs their tyres with the intention of slipping but be confident in a brand that specialises in grip and slipping as little as possible. It's a weak argument I know, but so is saying to buy 'drift tyres' for grip, 'drift tyres' are popular because they are cheap, and although may be grippy, aren't designed to last 20,000 miles.

Just for clarity, that website is bias for economy tyres. hence why it scored alright compared to other dunlop sport and other economy tyres. Now we are interested in grip, so lets try this website http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Nankang/NS2.htm http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Michelin/Pilot-Sport-Cup-2.htm

They are £80 per tyre from what I saw. And I have no experience with them, but being big in the drifting world doesn't mean its grippy, it implies the opposite. So if you want a drifting companies tyre thats cool.

Have you camber arms? A stock car lowered gains camber.

That's pretty common nowadays. Finding a non rusty replacement is just as hard (maybe you can get them new for a price?), some people run without them but then the liners have nothing to hold onto.

BTW I assumed you were talking about RB26 since you didn't specify. Don't even bother with a rb25

I would tell you to keep the VG, it can produce all the power you need and they are plenty strong (arguably stronger than the rb). But I'm sure you've made up your mind. So you will need a rb25 transmission with VG bellhousing, radiator relocate, custom motor mounts etc. I cant remember the ins and outs. This might help: Remember the rb fuel is on the right and the factory fuel is on the left so you will need to cross the pipe over and put a filter inbetween somwhere before the fuel rail. And yeah it will be very expensive. You could probably build a 7-800hp VG for the same price.

What's up with it mate?