Alic

Thanks guys for all the birthday wishes. Received this set of whiney ratchet spanners. They come with 1/2 1/4 and 3/8 socket adapters which is something I've never seen before.

Im replacing an aftermarket one on a sandwich plate above the filter. I guess I could without draining oil, but tappets have started being noisy being sat for so long and I just piece of mind that it's running properly

Thanks Just looking to see if i could help my engine as it doesnt get driven much thats all :yes:

Just the thing! I think I got some extra virgin oil in the kitchen cupboard!

Bit cryptic but I get the picture. It doesn't matter that much. Just get some oil and slap it in there :)

And what is the reason for having a thick oil when hot?

I would if I understood the science behind it, but i'd rather have advice from people more knowledgeable. For a car in storage should i need more viscosity when cold? what about preventing tappet noises. Will synth give me the most protection? Im not asking for the best oil, im asking which qualities should be applicable to my scenario to give me good protection. Otherwise 10w40 castrol synthetic it is.

So I want people's opinions on what oil i should put in my TT Z. I put oil in it 2 years ago and its only done a couple hundred miles, but im installing an oil pressure sensor so oil needs draining and refilling. In the past ive always gone with 5w-40 or 10w-40 of whatever is at the local petrol station but I'd like to be a bit more prepared this time. I've read through oilman's post about viscosity and synth, but still not sure specific. oilman says synthetic because it gives superior protection than semi, but nissan/Jeff have recommended semi. Regarding viscosity, the car is mostly sitting and started every couple months for a little drive (nothing major), stock internals with bolt ons and upped boost. Anyone want to recommend something? Also specific brands better than others? In summary, semi-synth vs synth, viscosity, and brand?

Can't give specific advice but check if it's fuel or spark that you are lacking when hot.

Just make sure you finish it, and when you do don't plant it into a wall on the first outing because I want to see it. Someone's build last year did just that O.O

At what cost though. Changing the final drive to be taller would be the cheapest option providing there is a taller gear available than 3.69. though that might hinder driving only being a 4 speed.

Intake pipework back on the black car and took it for a drive on muddy gravel with atmospheric boost (very hairy to say the least) but great fun. Made a pair of boot floors (V2) to improve on my old one, one for my car one for dads zed. And Dad's zed has gone back to Keith's, for a rerespray. And some frame fixing to the shorties (front end was shunted too far back so bonnet would foul on nose panel) so the bonnet now closes and lines up, but the front bumper still doesn't fit right and some of the metal is bent, so long term I will have to graft another front support on it.

York is a bit far for me mate. If you want to add me on Facebook/whatsapp you could message me for assistance, or you could drive down to Sheffield if you want (and your car is on the road). Fitting HIDs isn't very difficult, you just have to find somewhere to hide the ballasts.

So you're saying it's definitely the bulb that's faulty and not the wiring. Hids will be easy to fit.

Have you tried a different bulb (or swap them side to side). Sometimes the bulb will blow but will still work when the filament touches the contact, but not at a different angle. You could also try putting an extra ground to the pin to ensure its not a grounding problem in the wiring. Other than that I'll have to check it with a multimeter.

I'm not overly bothered, I don't have any tools, parts or a car in Sheffield so travelling isn't ideal, but just wanted to see if anyone was closeby and needed a hand.

Good to hear Lee, You waiting to get the black one back and sorted now?

A convoy run like boxhill Brighton would be great, maybe also another show/event in the summer to go to. At the moment I only have AGM and simply in my diary for the summer.

Could we look to reboot this in the summer? Mid July or August most of us will have cars on the road by then.

There was a YouTube video from some US z specialist mws that tested it on a car with bolt ones and it was much quicker by about a second 0-60 (yet not very scientific but I digress). I have one on my impul because the plan for that car is for the car to perform as good as possible on stock turbos, maybe 450bhp. On your black car just be weary that at 600hp you will not find traction at all. I was in Ash's car and on a dry day with semi slicks and an unknown diff with somewhere around 4.08 gears, and in 5th you still can't get any traction when boost hits. I haven't had my car up to speed yet so would like to have some insight from someone who drives a zed regularly with one in.

Got the 17" impul RS wheels on it. In the future I would like step lips to 18", and a larger dish to give it a lower offset and make it flush (also wider to 10J ish), but that's long future and big money it looks like. Barrels will most likely have to be custom machined. Who knows what the future will hold.

Dad picked this up :innocent: It's pretty much down now and roadworthy but probably will stay off the road till I finish uni I guess :( Or until I get a job at least.

I say go for it on builds on stock turbos unless you cruise a lot and don't want the higher cruise rpm (~3000k at 70 instead of 2600ish) On 500+hp builds you might prefer the traction and not just hitting the limiter. (Hope I got everything right guys :) )

The mirror one is a plastic clip: And the belt ones are countersunk similar to the ones in the kick panel.

Starting to look like a proper workshop this. Took all the accessories and engine harness off the breaker ready to pull the engine. And installed the na power steering pump.