Z32

i didnt remove the oil cooler nor the fan. just remvoe the filter and have a look what you can see/get at. if the bumper is off yoou can see where everything is, but can get to it with it on anyway

easiest optioon dont be so silly an buy an auto in the 1st place :p na seriously tho, manual unleashes the power a lot more, youl be glad you did it! ive bought 2 automatic cars, but had all the parts from a donor car.

the headlight are easy to remove, (when bumper off at least) but you dont need to remove them to do the recircs. take the nose panel off, and remove the air filter. they are on the black intercooler pipes, each side. bit potchy to get in there, but its just couple of bolts holding the recircs to the ICs.

i would have thaght it cheaper to by an entire car tbh, just by a shagged car with no MOT or damaged, you NA or TT?

its got an imobiliser on it yes, but you have to disarm that, or you dont get ignition. the fuel pump can be heard priming wen u turn the ignition on. its gota be something like the pump ECU not relating to the main ECU? legrath & Jeff sort it out:p

i will try tonight, but im pretty sure the garage would have tested for negative signal wen turning the car over, as thats why theyv said its the negatives on the injectors. so how do i sort this then? if i rewired the 6 earths to the ECU how woudnt that work? stil confused why all 6 have gone? (PS ECU workt fine before, and ive removed and re-sit it just incase)

ive got the car back tomo, and ive got my own volt meter. the garage/RAC have told me there is 12+ to the injectors. Legrath, do you mean that there will be no signal when not trying to start it, but some negative signal when trying to start it? the electronic diagram seems straight forward posted bu Jeff, but looking at the loom is different, as a last resort i could run each negative from the injectors to each PIN on the ECU separate, but sure theres a glitch in the loom some point in the engine bay, suggestions where/how?....

the injectors have got 12+ there is no negative signal tho. but how do i now sort that? surely not all 6 negatives have gone? or do they join at one place? the ECU workt fine before the swap, so it cant be that...

yea new gaskets, manifold, elbow,

ok thanks dudes, sounds like getting more progress, i will be trying this on the weekend. only thing im worried about is mixing up the + and the - of the wire to the injectors. the coloring is different on some the wires. is there a way i can check which one is what? and likewise on the injectors themselves?

its just a rubber pipe (long one) probably a hardware store would have one, but probably easier to swipe one from an existing broken car

right ive got you, thanks for clearing that up. so use all the existing negatives from the loom. put 1 brand new posotive to 1 injector, and that will give power to the other 5. (or put posotives to all the other 5) posotives are easy to do, just need to check the negatives. if one of the negatives are broke, will that mean they all wont work? so ive either got no posotive coming from the ECU to the injecors, or no negative coming from the ECU. or both coming from the ECU, and getting lost by a break in the loom possibly

ok. how do you establish which one is the + and -, both on the injectors them selves, and the connector? ive changed 4 of the connectors on the injectors themselves, so its obviously a further up in the loom, closer to the bulkhead. (if there is a break even) Do i defo need to use the negatives from the ECU? surely the injectors dont mind where they receive a negative from? or isit the ECU that will be looking for them to be earthed

the UK auto ECU, is it NA or TT? i think people are answering yes, to the fact you can use a UK or Jap ECU, and the fact that auto or TT. but the new ECU, regardless of Jap/UK or manual/auto, will HAVE to be TT. NA wont provide enough fuel for the TT engine.

ok cheers. so if i sort a 12+ & 12- to each injector, will it work? i mean will they inject fuel when they supost to? the standard connectors from the loom wont be connected then, is there any signals sent to the injectors from that? or simply a constant 12+ & - just trying to understand how it works to understand the problem. think were getting closer now :)

i know the fuses, ones next to the fuel pump fuse. so on the injectors/injector connections, there are 2 prongs. im asuming 1 of these is posotive & 1 negative yea? my CAS is working to send the signal to the injectors (as have spark) so if i just run sperate power/ground to them, should work? (thats if i cant find a broken wire)

thanks mate, yea i need to relax, sure itl be resoved in the end. can you advise where the fuses are you speak of? i was thinking that today, could i not just run brand new wires from the injectors to the battery/ground?

that just sounds asif there is no hope of fixing it :( garage & RAC have told me whats wrong, but the CAS works as its sparking? unless its only half working. im relying on this forum, wait a few more days, then gonna have to think about breaking the car. dont wana spend hundreds of pounds on a loom, if more dead money. truely gutted, ive spent hundreds going the conversion, wish just broke the old car now :(

yea ive read a greddy instruction guide, there are 2 ways you can connect it up, the easiest way, is the 1 youve done by the sound, the lowest the boost can go is 0.9 which is stil low, as standard is 9/10 . so thats not gonna damage things

CAS must be fine, as im getting spark. so whats the next step?

thanks jeff. can you adivse why my injectors are not getting electrial signal? really stuck, dont want to hijack this thread, ive got my own one if you could post on that id appreciate a great deal http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=127192&page=2

how can i test if my CAS is receiving a signal from the ECU/loom? or how can i test if my CAS is transmitting an output signal? my injectors are not receiving a power signal, but ive got spark so im asuming the CAS is giving out a signal to that?

why hasnt the ECU picked up the CAS tho? if there is not signal getting to the CAS what is required to sort that?

im hoping there is power getting to it, and its the CAS itself thats gone. if the CAS isnt receiving power that sounds like a pain in the arse :headvswal how can i test if there is power getting to the CAS then? there is just 1 connector going to it on the front of the engine, if i remember there are 3 or 4 pins onit?