Z32

hi ant, yes i think i will if thats ok, what times best for you? im off work all week :)

no its not that, theres plenty fuel, pump primes etc etc, i know there are no negative signals as car has been on diagnostics as not starting

ah i understand. so just becasue the VOLT meter is picking up "some" signal at the end of the loom, and fresh from the ECU, it could be the wrong voltage, or the wrong "speed" of the negative signals. so the voltmeter cant pick them up as not quick enough, only a Noid light can. so its either the injectors are toast, the Loom, or the ECU. i doubt its the loom, as electricity is going through it, so no breaks. the injectors were fine previously, and doubt all 6 have gone. my money is on the ECU. Will getting a Noid light be able to tell me if its the ECU or the Loom? i mean can you test the ECU pin outs with a noid light? (one terminal on 12+ constant, the ECU negative?)

ok thanks for that. but what is the Noid light going to tell me then? if there is no correct negative signal coming from the ECU i imagine. think its best if i try the ECU on another car? i just cant understand where the fault is, or how the noid light is going to point it out? :cry:

zedwizz, whats your e-mail? Jeff: so what will the noid lights tell me? i know that negative signals are beig sent from the ECU, as have tested that with the volt meter. im confused, as the injectors have posotive at all time, when i turn the engine over the ECU sends the negative signals, and the signals are also at the loom the other end? RAC diagnostics have said the is no negative signals, yet ive tested the ECU and loom and found there is??

ive had my volt tester on the car. i tested the loom in the engine bay where it meets each of the injectors (i have removed the standard yellow connectors as were full of the green gunk, and replaced with speaker spades) they both showing 12+ at the loom, when connected to the injectors :eek: disconnected the loom from the injectors, then tested again, one of them shows 12+, the other shows 0 (when engine off) as should :) then the negative wire shows -8ish (fluctuates) then when turning over. as should :) ive tested the wires at the ECU also, and results are same as above. (test was done by posotive terminal on battery, then voltmeter, then the negatives on the loom and negatives on ECU) so thers a problem when the wires from the loom are connected to the injector, as when connected they both show 12+ at all times. think i need new standard conenctors, as my home made speaker spade ones are shit. where to get em? any other ideas apart from this? the car didnt start before this, but im asuming it was due to the heavy corrosion of the standard ones is the negative signals a bit too low or is that ok ?(iv just re-charged the battery, 13 volts direct from it)

convert speedo (if you want) fog light, you should use optimax petrol as the japanese fuel is better than ours, MOT or whatever required to register here

i really wish i removed the loom from the old one before i scrapped it, i had the engine out & dash off aswell! never mind ay, be ok when sort this one :)

yea ok cheers, il wait til thursday probly mate, dont wana touch your beuty :) il let u know how my results go from testing the loom & ECU 1st anyway, may not need to pop down :duffer:

ok cheers ant. as always you help me out :) ive got a volt meter now, and the week off work. so gonna test my ECU and the loom, see where my prob is. if i suspect the ECU, its probably easier for me to post it to you to test on yours, but i guess i could pop down if you prefer...

ok cheers. just thinkin my ever lasting issue may be the loom. (its either the loom or the ECU) the air con has been removed (the pump and rad at the front) think u mean the tubes/pipes that go into the car yea? then it pulls through yea? or pull from the outside?

not sure what happens if you retain the recircs, and have DVs aswel. just remove the recircs tho as thats where the new DVs will go. unless you have them higher up in the engine bay on the larger intercooler rubbers

yea, just free it all up, air filter, exhaust, and de-cat pipes, so free flowing. then turn the boost up to around 14-15 PSI, (rediculas amount of difference) the ECU will need to be chipped to allow the increased boost (gives it more fuel to balance the increased air) i would have estimate that to be around 340BHP, others may say higher tho? which is good if correct! anyone got a higher figure based on the above mods?

may be removing my loom, as have somewhat of an issue with my car lol removing the dash is easy, as ive had it off recenlty. is it possible to take the loom out with the engine still in? or is it impossible? pull through from the inside?

dad soke to them now, cancelled the order. they didnt have the materials for the furniture, so just didnt reply, asked do we want to do another order :rofl: thanks anyways

na i left mine, its the grey one isnt it. just cut it off

1990-92 Nissan 300ZX coupe Bose Audio System FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR Accessory 12 Volt 1 YW Constant 12 Volt 3 BU Chassis Ground 6 BK Power Antenna 8 BK/RD Remote 13 OG Illumination 7 RD/YW Dimmer 2 RD/BU Left Front - To Amp 10 BK Right Front + To Amp 4 WT/RD Right Front - To Amp 9 BK/RD Left Rear + To Amp 12 WT/BU Left Rear - To Amp 15 BK/BU Right Rear + To Amp 11 WT/GN Right Rear - To Amp 14 BK/WT FUSE VALUE FUSE LABEL FUSEBOX LOCATION 10 AMP #6 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL 10 AMP #15 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL Left Front + To Amp 5 WT 1990-92 Nissan 300ZX Without Bose FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR Accessory 12 Volt 1 YW Constant 12 Volt 3 BU Chassis Ground BK* Power Antenna 8 BK/RD Illumination 7 RD/YW Dimmer 2 RD/BU Left Front Spkr + 5 BU Left Front Spkr - 10 BK/WT Right Front Spkr + 4 BN Right Front Spkr - 9 BK/RD Left Rear Spkr + 12 L.GN Left Rear Spkr - 15 BK/YW Right Rear Spkr + 11 OG Right Rear Spkr - 14 BK/PK FUSE VALUE FUSE LABEL FUSEBOX LOCATION 10 AMP #6 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL 10 AMP #15 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL *The BK ground wire is connected to the chassis of the factory radio with a separate single-wire harness. 1993-96 Nissan 300ZX Bose Audio System FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR Accessory 12 Volt 1 YW Constant 12 Volt 3 BU Chassis Ground BODY Power Antenna 8 BK/RD Remote 13 OR Illumination 7 RD/YW Dimmer 2 RD/BU (93-95) GN/RD (96) Left Front + to Amp 5 WT Left Front - to Amp 10 BK Right Front + to Amp 4 WT/RD Right Front - to Amp 9 BK/RD Left Rear + to Amp 12 WT/BU Left Rear - to Amp 15 BK/BU Right Rear + to Amp 11 WT/GN Right Rear - to Amp 14 BK/WT Shield Ground 6, 16 GY FUSE VALUE FUSE LABEL FUSEBOX LOCATION 10 AMP "AUDIO 1" DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL 20 AMP "AUDIO 2" DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL *Like most Bose Audio systems, each speaker has an amplifier integrated into the speaker's enclosure. If the speakers are replaced, the receiver must also be replaced. Speaker wires listed are low-level signal output from receiver to input of Bose amps. 1993-96 Nissan 300ZX Without Bose FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR Accessory 12 Volt 1 YW Constant 12 Volt 3 BU Chassis Ground BODY Power Antenna 8 BK/RD Remote Illumination 7 RD/YW Dimmer 2 RD/BU (93-95) GN/RD (96) Left Front Spkr + 5 BU Left Front Spkr - 10 BK/WT Right Front Spkr + 4 BN Right Front Spkr - 9 BK/RD FUSE VALUE FUSE LABEL FUSEBOX LOCATION 10 AMP #6 DRIVER'S SIDE DASH PANEL 10 AMP #39 DRIVER'S SIDE UNDER HOOD NOTE: Non-Bose system rear speakers do not appear in Nissan wiring diagrams for 1993-1996 model years. 90-96 Power Antenna Timer Wiring Read numbers from pin side of vehicle connector. FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR On & Accessory +12V 1 BU On & Start +12V 2 GN/BU Power Antenna 3 BK/RD* Constant +12V 4 RD/BK* Out to Motor 6 BU/BK Out to Motor 7 BU/RD Chassis Ground 8 BK* *These wire are needed to install a new power antenna. They are located at the power antenna timer located beside the power antenna.

i know the standard ones are good for a lot of power, aslong as working correctly! havent heard of any going bad tho on here?

hmm maybe :S where do i stand then? how can i find out if they have gone bust, or is there a way of getting money back?

my mam and dad have bought some furniture, about 600 quids worth, online company, over a month ago. they dont answer the phone or return e-mails, but they did a few weeks ago? is there a certain trading standards or something? feel a bit let down as ive bought a million things online, and be a shame to be disapointed. http://www.alfresia.co.uk/ is the name of the company purchased from

do you mean the intercooler pipes? they are the only metal ones, and they are a bit of a jigsaur to fit back tbh. when fitting mine back, i used an angle grinder to take off all the bits that hold them to the car. its really tight to get them in, with the bits and bobs trimed off them its a lot easier. gettting them all lined up with the intercoolers, and then so that the rubber ones line up with the intake plenum is quite tricky, but nice when its all done :)

cheers dude. :)

auto car, NA. so obviously has the auto/NA loom. converted to TT and manual same time. ive got a manaul TT ecu in there now. manual ECU in an auto car ok? (after converted) cant remember which way round can use! :wack:

thanks for the reply guys, na the aux fan is not coming on when ignition (so its not the temp sensor) im miles and miles from a Z specialist, im in soith wales. ive re-sit the ECU, i didnt check if the pins had come out tho, doubt that tho. the CAS i beleive is working, as the car has spark. Ant, il give you a txt, and try my ECU on yours. then also have a lend of your cas. but like i said, CAS & ECU was working fine before. ive tried the NA ECU and that didnt work either, unless ive shorted the injector wires when swapping the conenctions? how can i tell if i have connected the + and - to the correct terminals on the injectors?

bump anyone?