Gio

Now how sad is this: I've had an MG Maestro Turbo (and 2 EFi) and a Rover 220 Turbo and a 300ZX TT. I enjoyed the Rover Turbo (metallic BRG & cream leather) but didn't like the harsh stiff handling and Honda switchgear. TBH the plastic "wood" veneer and Rover grille made the whole thing look like a grandad car, They should have kept the original clean front end (and, come to that, stuck an MG badge on it :D ). But it was hugely competent car, v quick and great handling. The MG had a huuuuuge grin factor. When the turbo kicked in in 3rd, it went like a bat out of hell. And it was red! The torque steer when you floored it in 1st and 2nd was grin-enducing and the handling was bloody good. IMHO almost as sticky in the twisties as the Rover but much more comfy. I could get in that car and drive all day and get out fresh as a daisy. With its full Tickford body it had a certain bulldog charm and it was a big grin (there's that word again) to blow away "proper" sports cars who thought it was flat-cap / braces / pipe time. The Z is just a different class. I've had it longer than any other car I've ever owned. Would I get another one? No - I'm keeping this one! Would I get another Rover? No. But I enjoyed having one. Would I get another MG Maestro? Actually, yes. But then I am a tad warped! Cheers - Gio

What does your chassis no start with? http://www.aus300zxclub.com/tech/year.htm http://www.300zx.org.uk/mod_comp_0.htm http://www.300zx.org.uk/z32_info.htm HTH - Gio

Naaah can't be - we've already got one mad Mac on here already :p And Geoff, yes you're right but they only used the Fairlady name in Japan. So if it says Fairlady on the back (and this is original) it's a J model ;)

eh? Well first off your post said it was about "N/A manual into TT auto" so naturally people assumed you wanted to change a N/A into a TT. Secondly, Buz's post gives you a link to a document about putting a manual box into an auto car. It even says "NA and TT 5sp can be used interchangeably...."

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/SmokeDiag.htm

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=737844

Silver Machine (and if you have to ask "who by?" you're too young :D )

:rofl: hehehe lol - surely something both manual AND auto owners can agree on...:D

in my bits for sale thread.... and if you're coming to the AWOL / Royal Oak @ Farnham Royal meet, we'll call it a pint.....

Is this where the "bite" point suddenly sort of clunks and shifts by an inch or so. And then you notice later on, it's back where it was?

hehe that's the house of the bloke what rebuilt / resprayed mine. Clearly a cash based business has benefits!

Surely the answer to the question "Who's got the nicest 300 on here" has to be "me":D 'cos "mine" is always the best. After all, other Zs may IYHO look better, be faster, be more stock that "mine" but "mine" is parked outside "my" gaff and "I" can drive it anytime "I" like - unlike "yours" :rofl: (Besides, stock is better, silver is faster and TT 2+2 is the only proper spec for a Z :p :p Just as well I'm going out for the rest of the day innit? :D ) PS this isn't my gaff - just my Z!

Mae hen wlad fy nhadau yn annwyl i mi, Gwlad beirdd a chantorion, enwogion o fri; Ei gwrol ryfelwyr, gwladgarwyr tra mad, Tros ryddid collasant eu gwaed. Cytgan Gwlad, gwlad, pleidiol wyf i'm gwlad, Tra môr yn fur I'r bur hoffbau, O bydded i'r heniaith barhau. Hen Gymru fynyddig, paradwys y bardd, Pob dyffryn, pob clogwyn, i'm golwg sydd hardd; Trwy deimlad gwladgarol, mor swynol yw si Ei nentydd, afonydd, i mi. Cytgan Os treisiodd y gelyn fy ngwlad dan ei droed, Mae hen iaith y Gymry mor fyw ag erioed, Ni luddiwyd yr awen gan erchyll law brad, Na thelyn berseiniol fy ngwlad. Cytgan

No mate, according to the parts fiche it is just paint. And that's how I just did mine: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24985 (well Gary Bellamy did it) This is Deano's old J-spec repainted in UK spec (plus a teensy-weensy bit of f/g) with UK numberplate plinth. HTH - Gio

That looks like a stock bumper to me. Stock is polyurethane so flexes quite well. The dark grey strip you mention is just paint.

Ouch :rolleyes: glad you're OK tho. I know where you could get hold of a pair of freshly refurbed UK wheels with new S-03s if you wanted.... ;)

I had a minor dispute with my Mandela today over tyre pressures so they looked in their book (don't know which one) and they said that: J spec 225 front and 225 rear should be 33psi front and 33 rear. UK spec 225 front and 245 rear should be 33psi front and 36 rear. That's what they said, anyway. Just thought I'd pass it on :D

Hi All, As we all know, the OEM 55W dip beam bulbs could have been manufactured by "Joe Lucas, Prince of Darkness " (old biker joke from old biker). I got a pair of 85W H3C from the US and they seemed marginally better. Has anyone got good things to say about the PIAA 55W H3Cs described as "Platinum Superwhite"? compared to the OEM? (Yes I know I should have the HID but can't afford it! :D ) TIA - Gio

Yes I would guess so - if you drive along at a steady speed and switch Econ on and off (while Auto is on) I think you can tell the difference. For a fuller explanation, see pages HA-95 and HA-96 on tht manual link I gave you. Good grief lol

AMB = Ambient - i.e. what the temperature sensor thinks it is outside. The aircon system is very complex - so best read about it in the heater and airconditioning section of the manual here. http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi If you've got the type with Up down arrows changing the temp and then three buttons Recirc Econ Off with two buttons on the left Hi Low then you've go the type described as lol You can't change the balance of where it chooses to blow air, nor adjust the tem difference between feet / body / head - it does all this for you according to some fiendish little program. All you can do is to set the temperature you want and push the Auto button. In addition, you can select a special demist setting. Also fan speed hi / low. Recirc does what you'd think and econ actually turns the aircon off but leaves the fans running. IIRC

The major problem with rotary (since I can't say ****el hehehe) engines is tip wear. The rotor tip is in constant scraping contact with the chamber wall and they had to develop all sorts of clever sintered materials which cost a fortune. Also, they are a nightmare to get through emission standards as they chuck out all sorts of unburnt hydrocarbons. And drink a lot of fuel. That's why - although they are nice lightweight and very smooth, the first ones were not a success (kept having problems with the tips) and it took a manufacturer with deep pockets to get it a success - eg Mazda. First production car IIRC was NSU ro80 in 67 http://www.motorbase.com/vehicle/8/9/0/primary.html Went for a drive in one of these back in the 70s and very smooth - but on its second engine. Because it was so light, a lot of bike factories went for it - Suzuki, Van Veen and most famously Norton. The Norton F1 http://www.jpsnorton.com/start.asp was an absolute stonker with a rasping roar which made your hair stand on end. And it won! Norton also did a small range of Classic, Interplod and Commander. I rode a Commander once and parked it on a Range Rover (tho that's another story). Great engine - really turbine like. In looking up these links, I just found a very very sad bit of news http://www.andrew-grant.co.uk/fineart.htm Norton has been put into receivership and is being sold off at auction:cry: God, I dunno - first Concorde, now Norton.

The problem is because capacity in a 4 or 2 stroke is based on swept volume. Since a rotary engine don't go up and down, how can you have swept volume? If you interpret the ****el (oo- er I always wanted to say that) in one way, you can say the swept volume is (say) 588. But this gives you many more power impulses (look at the anims posted earlier) for a single turn of the crank than the equivalent single cylinder 600cc. So given that the old rule was 500cc 2 stroke = 1000cc 4 stroke, how do you rate the ****el? Cheers - Gio

Strangely I had a 1 or 2 year old OEM Nissan rad cap go with a big whoosh - it actually blew off the rad (found it elsewhere on the engine). Luckily I was only doing about 40 mph (had done a couple of 80mph motorway hours, then turned off to bimble home and let everything cool down slowly). After about 5 miles "whoosh" water all over the road :eek: stop. RAC man filled up radiator system - needed about loads and loads - not just a top up. Pressure test on warm engine at Nelson - no fault found. Maybe there is a bad batch of radcaps out there?

Age, perhaps - the AON / RSA policy is actually a Classic car policy and is only available to over (I forget - 35?) a certain age. I just got my renewal in the post from Lifesure yesterday so they're still doing Zs.

ROFL so it is.. :D Serves him right for deserting! Stuart - I only picked up the date from references on AndyPs site and others - so I don't know for certain, I only know what someone else wrote :p