Everything posted by Gio
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Standard Plugs -11C or -11B?
OK ladeez'n'gennelmen I did my research and conscientiously used the searchy thing to try to find which plug is best for a Japanese TT over here. At last, I find the guru's site which say NGK PFR6B-11B is right and -11C is probably OK. In a pm, the guru himself said -11C is better for UK fuel and will be better than the -11B. :confused: :confused: NGK's site says -11C and Courtesy's says -11B (but of course that is for US fuel so maybe -11C is right after all.) Heeeelep - which one? -11B or -11C?
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Coilpack Connectors - in packs of 6
Most sources of these make you buy 2 packs of 4. I just found that Concept Z in Arizona http://www.czp.us will happily sell you a set of 6 because (and I quote) "we don't see why you should have to buy 2 connectors you don't need." Blimey. And for only $84 (+ tax / shipping). What jolly nice American chappies. :D
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EGR removal
A long standing interest in *ahem* certain organic chemical compounds and a chemistry A-level from the days when we still had concentrated sulphuric acid in jars on the bench (and sodium under oil). Oh, and a chemistry teacher with a sense of humour - eg when teaching us about liquid oxygen, he dunked an unlit Marlboro in it, stuck it in his mouth, lit it and inhaled the entire thing in one short drag! hahaha :rofl:
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PIAA "Superwhite H3C bulbs vs 85w H3C
PIAA both sides OEM bulb on the left, 85W bulb in the middle and PIAA on the right (this exercise was subtitled "how to really p*** off the neighbours late at night" :rofl: )
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PIAA "Superwhite H3C bulbs vs 85w H3C
OEM Bulb Driver side + 85W Bulb Passenger side PIAA Bulb Driver side + 85W Bulb Passenger side
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EGR removal
NOx is a generic term for all the not completely burnt nasties you get out of an exhaust. NO, NO2, NO3 etc These can be very nasty and not like N2O at all. And they oxidise in the air to produce acidic rain (Water + Oxygen + NOx gives you things like HNO3 (nitric acid) and HNO2 (nitrous acid). That's why there are EGRs in the first place - to stop your lungs being eaten away!
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Red UK TT in the air in Datchet M30 0xx
Welcome whoever you are. BTW that should be 225s on the front, not 245s :p
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cam belt tensioner, do you really need to replace it when doing a service???
Yep, TopLess link to the ConceptZ site works for me - that's the same (at least as far as I can remember cos it's too late to go for the files, sorry) as I recall the kit being. The Timing Belt Tensioner IS in that kit. It's the optional pulleys which you can probably get away with only every other belt change. (I did. So far. fingers crossed.) I can (dimly) remember a discussion with Mr F about whether the belt service had been dropped from 60k to 50k or perhaps 50k to 40k (miles) but can't remember which way round it was.
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BOVs vs Recircs vs things that go pt-schhhh
OK boys and girls, there have been a lot of posts about BOVs recently and at least two threads laughing at the the electronic "sound-only" pt-schhhh noise makers. Here is a very reasoned analysis of what BOVs do, and why Re-circs are better and how to install them. http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/bov.html This applies, according to the author, up to about (guess) 600hp. Serious tuners have the experience / knowledge to judge exactly when is right to use BOVs for their engine instead of recircs. Otherwise, recirc + noisemaker is a better / more reliable / cheaper mod than BOVs. If you want the noise. According to this lot. Discuss :D (If you just want the performance and you're going from anything between stock bhp and the 600-ish guesstimate, fit the recircs in the article in the link)
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Removing Front Seat Covers
Hi Robert - when are you doing this? I'd be very interested in your opinion. I've got a couple of panels which need a touch of TLC and also the seats need a fettle. I'm too cr4p / bone idle to do it myself so if you get a good result from this bloke, I shall toddle off down there. TIA - Gio
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Please Help Newbie Buying 300zx
anyone know where there's a good buying guide? http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/BuyingZ.htm
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cam belt tensioner, do you really need to replace it when doing a service???
What I was told was to replace the "normal" belt plus a few bits at 50,000 and then do the full monty at 100,000 including all the pulleys, tensioners and whatnot. I've just found my notes. Idler Pulley 13077-F6510 is an option Secondary Tensioner Pulley 13077-F6200 is an option the Timing Belt Tensioner assy 13070-45V04 is supposed to be in the kit It looks expensive when quoted on its own, but is cheaper when included in the kit. So I would do the kit every 50k miles then the kit + optional pulleys every 100k miles. I stand to be corrected! Interestingly, last year, the price for Secondary Tensioner Pulley 13077-F6200 was $160 + shipping / duty from the US and only £41.30 here in the UK from Mr F. So it's not always cheaper from US ;)
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Speedo Calibration Pots
Old story (must be true, it happened to a friend of a friend): Back in the 70s a car nut buys a Cortina 2000E as a cheap classic. He lavishes care and attention on it, best oil, regularly changed, top class maintenance, drives carefully - as I said, a real car nut who turns up at club events and enters concours! After 10 years of the best TLC he decides to sell it on BUT having looked after it so well, he thinks it'll never get what it's worth thanks to the mileage. So he wrestles with his conscience and decides to knock a few thou off the mileage with a little judicious clocking. (only a few thou, honest mate) So he gets the speedo out, turns it round and on the back there is a sticker..... "Oh no, not again" hehe
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Royal oak meet sunday 29/8/04
OK who's bringing the telly for the Belgian Schumacher walkover - sorry, GP?
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How do dynos/RRs measure torque?
So RWBHP is the "true" measurement - everything else ("at the flywheel", "at the crank" "allowing for transmission losses") is just an estimate. (Unless, as Mike says, they drop the tranny and bung the dyno on the flywheel or wherever. Which they don't.) When they are estimating 300ZX autos there is a real problem as 300ZX autoboxes are not normal torque-converter type auto boxes - so almost no-one has a real idea of what the "transmission losses" are and you can't estimate them the way you can with a manual transmission. (Boot the engine then take your foot off the throttle and dip the clutch - the deceleration of the rollers gives you an idea of the drag in the transmission which you add back to the rwbhp to get a pretty good estimate at the flywheel). It has been alleged that some unscrupulous tuners / dyno people (no one here, natch) simply guess what figure they need to add back to make the customer feel he's got a really good engine.... Now, don't get me onto the subject of the SAE measurement of BHP - is that with or without aircon? Alternator? Lightweight oil? etc etc hehehe
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Oil pressure sender
also just remembered I sent my old one to AndyP as he wanted to disassemble to see what made it tick. He did tell me at Billing that there didn't appear to be anything serviceable inside but the rest of his technical explanation went whoooooosh (as I don't speak tech!). Maybe he could measure the bits if he's still got 'em?
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Oil pressure sender
Oil Pressure Sending Unit 25070-30P01 $60 from ConceptZ http://www.czp.us
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NZR: PC backup question
Just did this and it was relatively painless. But maybe this was because I was running the same version of Outlook (2002) on the old Win2k PC as on the new WinXP pro PC. IIRC I used to run Outlook 2000 on the old PC and just upgraded to Outlook 2002 with no probs - it just used the same *.pst file. To ease backups (of Outlook and Word templates etc), I made a new folder (called user settings or something) in My Documents and changed the default settings in Word, Outlook (Data File Management) to keep the templates, pst files etc in there. Then whenever you want to do a backup, just copy that folder to CD.
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Bad vibrations
I suffered from just about every cause of propshaft vibration and it usually starts the moment you start the propshaft turning - i.e. in first gear and as you start rolling. Also (like unbalanced wheels) it will vary as road speed, not engine speed. And it'll do it whether or not the clutch is in. And it's very obvious that it is coming from the transmission tunnel. So my guess is that if yours doesn't start until 120kmh, it's probably not propshaft.
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NZR: PC backup question
And from memory, the way that Microshaft want you to do Outlook backups is to do File > Import / Export > and then do the export Wizard.
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NZR: PC backup question
Danny, Outlook files are .pst
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Knock sensor - what else to do while down there?
Hallo matey - probably not if I want to keep my Captain Stock status! (I am waiting for everyone else to mod theirs so I end up with the only stock 300ZX on the planet and then it will rocket in value hahaha cunning plan.) But just for others who may be wandering what all this is about, what are the pros / cons on doing those things?
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Knock sensor - what else to do while down there?
Thanks Paul, I spent half an hour squinting at my pdf manual and couldn't find the figure. Cheers
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Knock sensor - what else to do while down there?
Good point - possibly because it is a piezo element? I shall go delve for the torque setting (unless you know it off by heart hint hint :D ) Ta muchly
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FAO TopLess
Oi TopLess - is this you moonlighting? :rofl: Be A Fireman For The Day Description Cost BFF1 Be a Fireman for the day £140.00 Held on selected Saturdays throughout the year at our fire training facility in Surrey, the idea is for participants to have a hands on go at being a Firefighter for the day - after a detailed health and satefy brief, everyone is kitted out in full firefighting uniform and has their photo taken next to a fire engine (presented to them before they go home, framed) and then its onto fire training, with breathing apparatus training first, and into smoke filled rooms they go in search of lost items (dont worry, its a fluid based smoke like disco smoke, and two of our team are in there, not in BA to keep an eye on everyone), after BA, its out driving fire engine on a purpose made course, with two tones sounding and blue lights flashing! A buffet lunch is provided (plus refreshments all day) and then the real action starts - live fire training, firstly with small fires, getting used to handling the equipment and firefighting (not too much given away here as there are a few surprises as real firefighters dont always know what to expect!) and then after a break, its time to experience the hydraulic rescue equipment with cutting cars up etc (again a few surprises included) - then its time to go back to the classroom for a well earned cup of tea - but what happens if the alarm goes? Well it does and the instructors scramble to two fire engines and get them ready to go, the teams panic and put both legs in one boot, but eventually get on the fire engines, thick black smoke in the distance signals a major blaze, on arrival the crew have to put their training into place to tackle this major blaze....... (Its always good not to mention too much as the surprise on the teams faces when they get called to this is great!). At the end of the day with the smell of sweat and smoke everywhere (yuk) everyone is presented with a certificate of completion and a framed photograph of themselves!