Gio

Hello. Trying to track down the cure for a rattle type of noise that tends to be when cold and low revs. Cambelt, pulleys done 2 years ago at Eurospec. When I first heard the noise, I thought it was a small exhaust blow but it's not that. Eurospec have stripped the front and had another good look at pulleys, timing belt, tensioners etc and they're fine. They suspect the VVT solenoids or gears. A bit of research leads to this https://z32.wikispaces.com/Variable+Timing+Control#Function-ECU Control-Non-Turbo which seems to point to the gears (if it happens when cold, the solenoids wouldn't need to operate anyway). Has anyone had this issue and if so, what was the cure? Sounds like a small bag of spanners but runs smooth and gets quieter when warm and running at motorway speeds - no horrid noise at all. Cheers (and yes I've come back because I've got an issue with my Zed. At least I've still got a Zed :) )

Hallo chaps. Long time no lurk. Anyone got a working antenna mast/motor going? Finally got fed up with the randomness of mine. Thanks

I knew you were going to say that. :D

Front tracking figs from manual and the rear You can't adjust the camber on the front unless you fit adjustable camber arms.

Good man :thumbup1: I expect a proper announcement to be made on the forum :D

Happy birthday. And here's some nostalgia from 2007 when I thought she was going to a good home :)

Surely the top of the tree is the highest branch? (And don't call me Shirley).

! I know much less than real people on this forum, so I'll step back and let them take that apart ("re-mapped to insure no valve seat burn or piston ring wear" ??? WTF).

Welcome back to zedhood. Well, if you're in the Chilcompton in Somerset, I think Jimmer @ Powerzed http://www.powerzed.com/ is closest to you. Never used him personally but has a good rep here. (Sorry FunkySi, I have this OCD need to actually ATFQ :D ) Much as it hates me to agree with Portishead's finest, doesn't sound like remap is the answer to the problem (and, agreeing again, what makes you think it's running lean - what's the evidence?). I had a JDM Manual TT with Mongoose and didn't need a remap either. So off to Jimmer with you, I'd say. Personally, if you have an unmolested UK car with 45,000 genuine miles, I'd advise you to keep everything original because they're getting rarer and rarer. This has been a party political broadcast on behalf of the "don't screw up your zed party" :)

Due to the "hottest July day on record", been keeping an eye on the temp via my ECUTalk. Noticed that at 102, the OEM needle was still slightly down but at 104, slightly up. I still can't find the exact page in the manual, but had done before so here's the posts with the exact temps http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?178663-Why-an-over-heating-zed-can-catch-you-out&p=1839163&viewfull=1#post1839163 Today, was doing a long journey at 70mph (honest officer, mostly) and noticed that the aircon seemed to add a couple or 3 degrees to the actual temp. So when it hit 104, I turned the (freshly filled R134a) aircon off and waited until the temp went down. From my previous research, I should have had more bottle and trusted the aux fan to come on at 105. (According to the manual, the temp sensor itself should measure up to 110C - does anyone have a temp fig for when the rad cap relief would go?). When in traffic at the awful Hanger Lane NCR traffic jam yesterday, 102 was the hottest I have seen (until today) - aux fan should come on below 24mph at 96C. This morning I checked all fluids and radiator level - all fine and plenty in the overflow. Just for info really as I know some are not used to the OEM gauge not actually reading real temps - so if you see it heading north above "pointing straight left", be aware something might be about to happen. Do I have the bottle to keep the aircon on if I see 105 on the temp again? I'll let you know. Here's some more ref http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html Cheers

Ah, OK, got it. Ta.

Well, apart from finding a set of UK clocks, taking the binnacle apart and changing the UK ones from the JDM ones. Plus recording your km / miles old and new tripmeters well enough so that you are believed. Why do people need to cut the track on the back of the clocks - is that just for adding a converter to JDM to read mph?

So if the op said that's not smoking on start-up so prob not valve stem seals? If so, what is it?

Side repeaters must be seen within a certain angle so flush might be difficult: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/7/made 3. Angles of visibility– (a) A motor vehicle first used on or after 1st April 1986 and a trailer manufactured on or after 1st October 1985– (i) Horizontal (see diagrams in Part III of this Schedule)– (A) A front or rear indicator fitted to a motor vehicle, other than a solo motor bicycle or a motor bicycle combination, having a maximum speed exceeding 25 mph and every rear indicator fitted to a trailer: .80° outwards and 45° inwards (B) A front or rear indicator fitted to a solo motor bicycle or a motor bicycle combination: .80° outwards and 20° inwards © A front or rear indicator fitted to a motor vehicle, other than a solo motor bicycle or a motor bicycle combination, having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph: .80° outwards and 3° inwards (D) A side repeater indicator fitted to a motor vehicle or a trailer: .Between rearward angles of 5° outboard and 60° outboard or, in the case of a motor vehicle having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph where it is impracticable to comply with the 5° angle, this may be replaced by 10°. (there are vertical requirements also.)

Wouldn't it be nice if someone - maybe even this forum - had a copy of the workshop manual for members to refer to. Oh look, http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi:wink: Plus downloadable here https://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual Even though I'm not mechanical, I always like to be able to check stuff. I'm sure someone helpful who does know will pop along and answer your q, but knowing your way around the manual helps you spot when other people are guessing! Just had a quick look and it's Diagnostic Procedure 30 in EF & EC pages 126 - 128 you need.

Interesting. Looks like that issue might be linked to a specific type or make of Consult adaptor. I've had 3: one from Rational Racing (no longer trading, I think), one a no-name from eBay and now my ECUTalk and none of those had this issue. So thanks for the warning - good info if it happens to others.

A 99 front bumper does not make it a 99 car - there's more to it than that!

I suspected that a converter was messing things up as described by FunkySi and lonezedder. That makes sense. So the options are: 1) converter - needs an mph sticker, looks weird (sweep is changed) and messes steering / HICAS feel. Removes the limiter, I think. 2) mph dial face on JDM clocks - no misreporting to affect steering, HICAS, need to get at clocks, removing / replacing speedo needle not easy for cack-handed like me. Keeps limiter and speed bing on cars which had it (me, I like it, but I'm odd) 3) UK clocks - needs getting at them (and cutting the track or have I misread?), cost and either your odometer is reading wrong or you need to find someone you trust to do the odometer thing (and, more importantly, document it enough that the person who eventually buys it from you, trusts you). Removes limiter (180 km/h = 112 mph) and, I think, bing. 4) keep JDM clocks and use different speedometer (satnav, ECUTalk, aftermarket) - could be free, doesn't need binnacle disassembly, doesn't mess with steering / HICAS, doesn't make needle sweep look odd and - for those with gold-faced clocks, is about the only answer. Plus there is no issue over "what does the tripmeter say" it's all kms (not part km, part mph or clocked). Another item on Gio's "reasons for keeping it stock" list :D

You can check fault codes yourself without needing ConZult. The codes are here http://www.300zx.org.uk/ecu_codes.htm Two methods I know of: screwdriver and potentiometer on the ECU itself or shorting out a couple of pins in the Consult socket https://z32.wikispaces.com/ECU+Diagnostics Video on the pin method [video=youtube_share;D_74OxFN_y8] PS if you reset the fault code, it will come back if still faulty. Step 11 in that link shows how to clear codes without disconnecting battery.

That's even sadder :)

Look at the prices over the past 10 years for 240z / 260z even 280zx - so we can but hope. I would guess that when you start getting into that area, unmolested ones will have more appeal. And, according to gazwoz http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?181506-Anyone-Interested-1998-auto-TT&p=1875791&viewfull=1#post1875791 auction prices on the rise in Japan...

Hi - try putting 300zx smoke into google https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=300zx.co.uk+smoke&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-GB:IE-Address&ie=&oe=&gfe_rd=cr&ei=2PWMVf7nF4GBcKi0gLgD&gws_rd=ssl loads of threads (many from this forum) depending on what colour smoke / when it appears. The original one when this forum was the right colour http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/SmokeDiag.htm What colour is the smoke?

@nickz32 - personally never had an issue (different MOT testers as well) plus the MOT manual just says it has to be working (etc) not what it reads in. @Joely P - I use my satnav and ECUTalk so reading the numbers on the km/h clocks doesn't factor (plus you soon get used to it - I find it easier than the small sweep if you use a converter on JDM clocks). I've got an NA so the boost doesn't factor either. Plus how many people don't have a boost gauge (I wouldn't but I didn't have a problem with adjusting to the scale.). You don't need to sticker the clocks if you have another speedometer (on satnav or ECUTalk or other device). Plus if you do a quick search, there are at least 3 threads in Today's Posts which are speedo or clock or potential issues (eg intermittent steering) plus cutting the tracks plus the other stuff. @Richie K - having two markings is a matter of taste - if you like it, that's a reason. Yes, UK clocks do delimit (but I don't drive that fast on UK roads anyway). The chime never worried me and S6 (plus S3 from memory) didn't have it anyway. I think you're right on the steering issue - at least that's how it seemed on my 2nd Z with the converter.

I have been meaning to ask this for some years but am a lazy git. My S6 still has its (gold faced) km/h clocks. No-one made mph faces that matched when I bought her from Sudesh in 2011 so I did a bit of research and didn't bother. On my first Z, I just changed dial faces and it was fine. On a 2nd Z, I fitted a km/h > mph converter but something didn't feel quite right in the power steering. I did a bit of research and came to the conclusion that no-one I asked knew exactly where the clocks and ECU picked up the speed of the vehicle from and what the 9/5 pulse conversion done by the converter would actually do - would it correct all systems or leave the clocks reading in miles while the psu thought it was driving in km. (Plus there is the clocking issue which I would trust JeffTT on but not many others.) Plus I have read so many posts here about issues of one sort or another involving clock changes or converters or steering issues etc that I now pose the question why does anyone bother? The MOT just says it should have a fitted and working speedometer. Not whether it read km/h or mph http://www.ukmot.com/mot%20manual/index.asp?MOT_Section=Speedometer&MOT_Number=6.7 and http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-servicing-repair/mot-changes-2012.html - furlongs per fortnight would pass MOT. The Vehicle Construction and Use Regs say: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1986/1078/made "every motor vehicle shall be fitted with a speedometer which, if the vehicle is first used on or after 1st April 1984, shall be capable of indicating speed in both miles per hour and kilometres per hour, either simultaneously or, by the operation of a switch, separately. " 1) My mobile phone (or satnav) if it is in a holder in the car is "fitted" and complies with VC&U Regs. 2) My km/h OEM speedo complies with MOT If I want to be super pedantic, I could buy and fit one of these http://furoreproducts.co.uk/digital-speedos/197-hud-speedo-driving-school-secondary-speedo-simple-3-wire-fitting.html (£70 and gives HUD). Or indeed, as I have done, one of these http://www.ecutalk.com/default.aspx which for my £140 gave me a USB Consult interface as well a lot of other functionality (error codes, realtime sensors etc etc) No issues with first UK registration on import in 2011 and no issues with every MOT since (touch wood). So what have I missed? Why do you need UK clocks and the hassle that (apparently) comes with them?

trim removal / replace walkthrough http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/13701.html