Gio

And not all models had cruise control as standard. Are you sure yours was there?

Real readings from stock NA auto this am When cold: AAC 80, 1250 rpm within a few secs: AAC 54, 1200 rpm after 6 miles: AAC 34 in the instant after shifting into N which then sank within a sec or so to 15 and 810 - 850 rpm AFM @ 1.23 at warm idle It's noticable that sometimes it idles at 850 - 810 and sometimes it drops to 750 - maybe it takes time to settle. But in any case, the guy's (I usually rtfq as well as rtfm) q was does this all look normal. So was his 24% after he'd let it settle to steady idle (in which case it's too high according to some but within the manual limits) or while it was just on the way down (in which case what was his steady idle AAC). The rest of it I wouldn't dare comment on without rtfm. @madkiwi Have you looked at the diag codes and seen if the safety boost / knock sensor has happened / is happening? Also my ECUTalk (which is the fully-built version) does not mess with the speed sensor / HICAS / power steering thing so I think your assumption that the consult adapter is faulty is probably correct.

If it weighs the same as a duck, then it's made of wood. And therefore ????

The manual has lots of diagnosis methods http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi From the EF - EC section, here are some figures:

OK, haven't found the exact gauge figures yet but here are the ECU figures when it turns on/off the fans so that's a reasonably inference this is what Nissan thinks about engine temps. The behaviour is different Turbo / Non-turbo and whether or not aircon is on or not. And remember the TT has an extra fan (IIRC). My guess is that LOW means just the one fan and HIGH means both but this needs confirming. NA and Turbo is the same when aircon off: below 104 C / 219 F - fan OFF; above 105 C / 221 F - fan ON If the aircon is on, the fan trigger temp depends on speed (guess to allow for natural airflow through rad) NA below 24mph: below 94 C / 201 F - fan OFF; above 95 C / 203 F - fan ON NA above 25mph: below 104 C / 219 F - fan OFF; above 105 C / 221 C - fan ON TT below 24mph: below 89 C / 192 F - fan OFF; between 90 C / 194 F and 99 C / 210 F - fan LOW; above 100 C / 212 F - fan HIGH TT above 25mph: below 104 C / 219 F - fan OFF; above 105 C / 221 F - fan HIGH From memory, that explains why my NA topped out at 95/6 on f hot days in traffic because at that temp, the fan came on. Normal traffic speeds, normal days around 82 - 84 or so.

z32bolt is right. It's a stepper gauge and only shows Cold, Normal, Hot. I was trying to find the figs in the manual last night but a) while watching Tom Baker in the Planet of Evil and b) a rather nice merlot meant I wasn't concentrating too hard. However the search is on again today. So far I have found this vid which shows exactly what z32bolt said. Translating from deg F into C: Cold: up to 135 F / 57 C Normal: 135 F - 217 F / 57 C - 102.7 C Hot: over 217 F - 102.7C So the 100C means it's still within a range that Nissan considers normal so the needle still points left. Having said that, using my ECUTalk shows that even at the hottest day of this summer stuck in creeping traffic round NCR/Hanger Lane hell, the hottest I saw was 95/96. If I saw 100 in ordinary conditions, I would be worried. Here's the vid: [video=youtube_share;xeCp9l_nG4Y] same guy also did OEM Oil gauge [video=youtube_share;wqFco6CFHg8] Interesting point that it's a direct connection between sender and gauge not going via ECU like just about everything else. Kudos to jschrauwen whoever he is - he must be right, he's got a silver one :D I just found him - he's a member here last posted in 2009 halllo John, nice vids. He's a Canuck from Franklin, Ontario and knows FunkySi.

While I was trying to find some parts for my S6, I fell across a couple of on-line catalogues. (I think Courtesy also have one) http://www.online-parts.co.uk/nissan/index.php http://nissan.epc-data.com/ Also found this site to order from Japan http://www.amayama.com/ Personally, I always use http://www.MJPAuto.com for preference and Forum Traders but for one particular thing had drawn a blank so since that site and the name Justin Karow had come up on other sites eg http://www.aus300zx.com I thought I'd give it a try. Everything worked, he searched the part nos, paid with PayPal in GBP, posted on the 1st Sept in Japan and arrived on the 3rd. Might be worth having a look if your normal parts suppliers can't help.

This may be one of the least relevant posts to forum members but having tracked it down, I had to tell someone! Nissan redesigned quite a lot of stuff for the Series 6 "last year" 300ZX eg brake master cylinder, lightened pulley etc etc including that bloody passenger window switch. (A lot of effort for only 1,000 cars or so in production, but there you go.) After 9 years or so of making switch surrounds that break, did the redesign make any difference? Nope. So out with the araldite and bodge. That didn't work. But a quick magnifying glass found the part number 25412-VP000 and email to MJP found that: 25412-VP000 - the plain one as fitted 25412-VP010 - supercession of VP000 25412-VP100 - carbon-fibre effect finish (seen/sold by Mike before) 25412-VP110 - by inference, the wood grain effect one (Yes they had three different trim effects for that last year: plain, carbon fibre effect and wood grain.) I got hold of a -VP010 and it was labelled as such and in the relevant bag but looking at the number actually moulded into it, it was a -VP000 which is listed as NLA! So RHD Series 6 owners, don't panic - the plain switch is still out there (needs a bit of tracking down). And in solidarity with all other Series, the damn things still break! There you go, that'll be of relevance to maybe 3 other forum members :D still, at least it's accurate, researched, clears up an oddity and is about Zeds.

Yes, 6 years. I took a crap bodyshop through small claims and got a result. You can (these days) do it all online https://www.moneyclaim.gov.uk/web/mcol/welcome Some advice here http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/reclaim/small-claims-court and http://www.adviceguide.org.uk/wales/law_w/law_legal_system_e/law_taking_legal_action_e/small_claims.htm You don't need to be Rumpole or rich. You do need to have evidence and follow their procedure exactly. Best of British (which we won't be able to say if the Salmond-ites get their way :) ) Oh, and get the technical info confirmed and substantiated by, for example, the Technical Officer of a relevant Car Club...

Scottish King inherited kingdom of England (= countries England + Wales) 1603 hence monarchs of both kingdoms since James 6 of Scotland inherited after QE1. That's why James 6 of SCotland is also James 1 of England. But the two kingdoms were separate legal entities / kingdoms - just happened to be same family. Scotland went nearly bankrupt due to (amongst many things) failed South American colony in Darien. Union of the kingdoms then followed. Great Britiain = (England + Wales) + Scotland. Act of Union 1707 Then Kingdom of Ireland and Kingdom of Great Britain became united in 1801 - hence "United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland" as we have today. (Don't get me on to the Channel Islands - I have a tractor driver's license for Sark which is one of my prized possessions.) So 1) that's why I'm a republican :) and 2) how dare the politicians north and south of the border get things so badly wrong that some oily prat thinks they can break up over 300 years of history just to claim the top jobs for him and his cronies? It's not a matter of England vs Scotland, it's more important than that. (Oh, and, I'm with Gary - my family is part Ulster, part Ulster Scot, part English so up the mongrels and keep the union!) In algebraic form: The United Kingdom of (((England + Wales) + Scotland)) + (Ireland - Republic)). I think. Sheesh.

My favourite everyday tyre is Avon ZV5 http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/car/zv5 used them on current Z and previous one and better than Falken 452s - quieter, last longer and (on one particular sweeping left-hander) grippier. Having used Eagle F1s, Bridgestone S02 and S03 and Falkens, I really like the Avons. Don't ask me about drag or track or high perf but for daily driver, they're top notch. Cheapest I found today £63.50 each inc VAT delivered UK mainland (just quick google search, nothing fancy). 225/50 R16 all round because that's what a JDM is.

Loads more info here http://www.datsun.org/fairlady/Index.htm

People, learn from an attitude like that. If you know / suspect you may need to *ahem* discuss anything with our fine, upstanding members of the constabulary, making sure as best you can that everything else is buttoned up, legal etc will stand you in good stead. If pulled for one thing, there is the risk that (for whatever reason) the plod in question might have/get the hump so make sure if they want to throw the book, there is nothing else for them to throw the book at. Point the 2nd - what everyone said about skimping on tyres being false economy / bad idea + lots. C: those who can't afford £75 a corner for ordinary everyday rubber should probably look at their overall budget to see if running a zed is wise (or, come to that, any car which needs £75 tyres) Rule 6: if I had to spend my working life in one of those terrifying yellow whirry things, I would hope the bloke what looked after it and I had the same attitude to my chosen form of transport!

Yep, they are. That's what started all this off!

Many thousands of people wear socks with sandals - another fitment down to personal preference which also deserves as much opprobrium as it gets. Really beyond the pale, my dear. BTW, "willy waving McDonalds car-park modification" isn't hyperbole. It isn't litotes or meiosis either. Might be a simile or possibly a metaphor. Where's Cato when you need him?

That'll buff right out :biggrin:

hahahahahaha bonk +1

If you think that pshhhh is a very cool sound and don't mind fitting a less-than-optimum solution to a problem Zeds don't have, then go ahead. Another FAQ on BOVs is here http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/bov.html

If you feel the zed is undervalued (as a generalisation - and, BTW, I agree with that), how do you think posting about prices you think are too high is going to help zeds reach a higher value? (to put it another way, the higher prices get, the more it benefits Zed owners: so, being horribly selfish, there is no such thing as an overpriced car (until the day I need to buy one, of course) "ruffle a few feathers" and "not out to cause an argument" - well, make up your mind :D Edit... Having read a few more threads just now, I apologise, I'm wrong. Clearly, the high price is due to a better quality/quantity of the drugs in the headlights! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?178521-Drugs-in-my-lights

Depends on how bad it is. When I bought my my first Zed back from the insurance company and had it fixed, putting it on a proper jig (laser job - called black hawk or something) and having it straightened to Nissan spec (it's in the manual) was only £150. That was in 2003. In fact, looking at my old bills (what OCD idiot keeps bills from 2003? Oh, it's me) I think the same firm is not too from you. Ish http://www.awaccidentrepair.com/locations_lincolnshire.shtml

HICAS is brilliant when it works. Nissan didn't think the NAs needed it "the real benefits of rear-steer become apparent at over 120mph and they are happy with the handling of the regular [NA] car without it." But then again, JDM cars are limited to 112mph and they still fitted it to TTs over there. I digress. The most common cause of a twitchy back end is rear shocks need replacing. Both my TT and blue NA started to go twitchy over bumps on straight roads. Replace rear shocks, back to normal again. Ockham's Razor applies as normal.

On the way home from Maidstone on Wed round the M25 I only stuck £10 in at Cobham services because those rapacious b'stards were charging £1.399 a litre - 10p a litre more than it was 10m away off the motorway.

Well according to a table which AndyP found (http://www.300zx.org.uk/model_variations.htm ) Series I ('89/7 - '92/8) Introduction Series II ('92/8 - '93/9) Series III ('93/9 - '94/ 10) Modifications Series IV ('94/10 - '97/ 1) Version S addition Series V ('97/1 - '98/10) Version R addition Series VI ('98/10 - '00/9) Final model

Factory fit on my JDM Series 3 '93 NA Auto. From memory, one of the other buttons did internal illumination. As mentioned above did also keyless entry and tailgate release. I was going to get a 2nd fob (can be got from US if you look hard enough) but found that the radio frequencies used in Japan / US are not licensed / legal for radio remote controls in UK so tbh couldn't be 4rsed and had a proper Thatcham alarm / immobiliser fitted. PS that control box was in passenger footwell. You can tell it's Friday, can't you... found this also:

Cheers AndyP, happy birthday. Is the pub as close to your house as it used to be?