Chrisbasildon

Sorry attachment didn't work, not sure why.

If you can get it on a ramp and run the drive train up to speed and closely listen to each wheel bearing, diff, prop bearing etc. only thing is as it won't be under any load the noise may not be present or reduced, also put your hand on the relevant components, taking care not to loose any fingers of course, and feel, sometimes you can feel the problem before you hear it.

Like this mate [ATTACH=CONFIG]85174[/ATTACH]

Get a 90 degree chuck for a normal drill, go steady keep it centred and drill out the little bugger. patience will get it out mate.

Basically it just has a much higher boiling point than water, when water reaches it's highest point before it turns to steam it has virtually no ability to allow heat transfer from the engine, if heat transfer cannot take place then the coolant can't carry the heat to the rad for cooling. But to be honest cooling systems are very efficient nowadays especially with upgraded rads and pipe work in place, and modern antifreezes are very good too compared to the older stuff. No harm in using it as long as it's ok for aluminium components, personal choice here I think. Probably a good choice for a vehicle being stored for a while

I'm in

It's a right hand thing surely!

Signing off on this now as I'm :headvswal

My advice is indeed correct, regardless of wether a rebuild is being suggested or not, the advice of replacing internals for better quality components when looking to reach those power figures is sound advice, you have stated this yourself noel, what your saying is a stock bottom end will run at 600+ hp until it craps itself all over the M1 north from Leicester , then inform the owner that some internal work should have been carried before it was tuned to that level. My advice avoids that scenario and is the correct way to do a job, who cares what a VG makes on a dyno for one given session, it's about doing it with reliability and peace of mind.

You make no sense noel, you state stock pistons cope with 600+ hp then you state it's a no brainier to upgrade for 550+ hip! which is what I advised at the very beginning! come on mate keep it consistent.

Maybe we could use 3 forged pistons and 3 cast ones to keep the cost down? :biggrin:

No mention of rebuilding, true, but power gains requested by the op remain the same, so my advice is equal to what you have written here noel surely?

A contradiction there I'm sure :yes:

Top up coolant level when cold mate, get a head gasket leak test done using hydrocarbon sensitive dye, it may not show a problem when driven gently so be sure to get her on boost assuming she's TT to put gaskets under some pressure.

Forged internals?

I stand by my advice whether it's taken or not as it is only advice at the end of the day, and I believe the majority of people would agree with it. A wise man is one that accepts he doesn't know everything there is to know :yes:

Mmmmm :bow:

Am literally wetting myself! Could be all the beer......

Sweet :lol:

:yes:

So let me get this correct, are u saying that to make a vg30dett produce around 600 RELIABLE hp,it's NOT ADVISABLE to replace rods and pistons with better quality forged parts? if I built an engine to produce that power RELIABLY without replacing some internals I would guarantee it to the shutter of my workshop and no further! :lol:

Not in the onesie :scared:

I guess it all comes down to personal choice at the end of the day, as my post said noel I think rods and pistons are ADVISIBLE not a REQUIREMENT, it cannot be argued by anyone that if pushing an engine to make that hp output that it cannot be a benefit to fit forged internals, I will change my internals for up rated parts because it will give better long term results.

Awaiting pics still :whistling:

Pictures fitted please! :yes: