Chrisbasildon

Front suspension turrets, sills,rear wheel arches, behind rear wheel inside bumper (low rear quarter) often missed due to exhaust silencers hiding it, corrosion is like the ice berg, whatever you see is just the tip. Personally I would stay away from corroded examples, they can be repaired like any car but it takes time skill and money to do it "correctly". A welded plate over a rusty sill does nothing for the strength or longevity of the repair, it's just a cover up. Better off finding a rust free body with maybe some mechanical work required, or just some small cosmetic repairs etc. Rust free Zeds that are for sale is a hard find.

Yup

At halfway house today at 12pm onwards.

Have a pair of these for sale, thought I would post here before eBay, from a 1996 NA with 35000kms, no damage, ready to bolt straight on. Open to offers, fairly heavy so keep postage costs in mind.

Shame

Just be sure to have all the parts you need prior to starting job, make sure you have good working master and slave, good flywheel ( I had mine refaced) new clutch, flywheel spigot bearing, all bolts etc, nothing worse than starting a job only to find you forgot some bolts etc. as said, it's so worth the effort when it's done, it's a whole different car with a manual box. :yes:

Magic of TV eh.

I payed £575 for every part needed from a forum member, but I fitted new clutch at around £250, rebuilt clutch master cylinder at around £70, fitted new slave cylinder at around £30, new braided clutch line at I think £20, had prop uj replaced and balanced at £80. Done it myself so no labour costs, not a hard job, but ideally you want a ramp to do it properly.

Where are you mounting your switch?

To be fair, Ed does come out with some total crap sometimes, like the 205gti that smoked heavily due to work gear selector rods :lol: - - - Updated - - - Worn

This is what I done, I couldn't find a nice clean solid TT manual anywhere in the uk when I was looking, so I bought a 1996 auto NA, simply because it had 32000km on it, no uk owners, and virtually stock, I payed more than its worth to be honest, but I know it's a solid rust free zed which for me was the priority, she's manual now, and I will get her where I want it to be over time, you must accept these aren't cheap cars to maintain or repair, but I feel they are worth every penny, smiles per mile :thumbup:

I stayed late after work tonight and fitted the new mongoose exhaust, perfect fit, sounds lovely, a tad raspy at high rpm but it's still NA ATM, should sound even better with some tubs. :yes:

Not a failure providing everything is secure, as you mentioned, plenty of welds everywhere on a car.

Yeah, personally that would always worry me, I know if done correctly the weld should be sound but I would just always have that doubt in my mind, a lot of work and potential worry for little gain I think.

To be honest I hated to have to bring her out so soon this year, but summer and show season will be upon us before we know it so getting in early to get jobs done.

They were from a 350z, just had to enlarge mounting bolt holes to 14mm, sticking with stock rears at the minute just a disc and pad upgrade as from what I can make out the rears are a good setup from stock and there is little gain to be had from replacing the calipers etc, unless maybe used on track.

Gotta wash her first russ.

:tt2:

Stayed late after work tonight and fitted brembo front calipers and DBA 5000 2 piece discs, very simple job 2 hours in total, no problems at all, back plates clear the new discs. The difference already in braking feel is outstanding, have to bed in yet but already the pedal is much more responsive, takes much less effort on the pedal before you can feel the brakes bite. gotta fit rears now, and exhaust, and 99 rear lights,and diffuser,and the list goes on............ Wish I had more free time.

Will do

I purchased some brembo calipers and DBA5000 2 piece discs, a full stainless exhaust, goodridge SS brake hoses. Gonna pull an all nighter tomorrow at work to get fitting. :thumbup:

Manual transmission is fairly simple, input shaft from clutch which is inline with main shaft and output shaft so power is delivered along a continuous line from crank to prop. When a gear is selected only the shift fork and synchro is moved, all gears are fixed and constantly meshed. When a gear is selected the shift fork for the chosen gear moves a synchronising ring towards the synchronising cone of the gear,this causes the shafts to match speed allowing a smooth transition. The counter shaft or lay shaft is a shaft of fixed gears meshed with the main shaft to give the different ratios. Reverse has a small idler gear to allow output shaft to rotate in the opposite direction. In most transmissions 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio, one turn of input is equal to one turn output, basically the transmission has no effect as it's crank speed at the output shaft. Helical gears are cut a specific angle to give smooth noise free operation. Straight cut are exactly that, reverse is usually straight cut hence the wine most transmissions make in reverse. Most reverse gears don't have a synchro hence why reverse cannot be selected whilst moving forward without grinding. Some transmissions do have reverse synchro and can be selected whilst moving forward without grinding.

Some Zeds on there too.

On discovery turbo now!

Minutes prior to that pic that Tupperware was full of bacon butties :lol: