Chrisbasildon

Some wheels have an opening in the rear face of the hub between each bolt hole so the protruding thread might not be an issue depending on your wheel design. Spacing the wheel further and further out will change the scrub radius quite a bit which will affect steering ability.

Wishing you well mate. [emoji524][emoji253]

Beautiful blue sky day here in Essex, the kids are in the pool, the bbq is primed with coal (gas bbqs are for amateurs) for cooking a nice steak later this evening, after which i shall be taking the Z out for a cruise to the seaside i think.

The recent changes to the MOT barely affect cars like these. ALL cars have problems and need money spent on them to maintain them. Modern day cars on average probably cost more to repair than a Z32.

I reckon he dropped a detailing swab. [emoji23]

A fork works very well. Just put something between the fork and the dial face to prevent damage.

If the discs werent removed and cleaned between the disc and hub check it while your in there. I have seen tiny amounts of corrosion or dirt cause brake problems.

Also disc thickness variation can be a problem, the run out measurement may have been taken against the outer face of the disc but if the disc has a problem on the rear face it may not have showed up. Dtv usually causes a slight pedal pulse aswell which you haven't noted.

Maybe this needs its own thread as it could be of use to others in future and keep us from getting off topic here. Have you checked that all the pistons are moving freely in the calipers? As one piston binding will cause one pad to exert more force against one side of the disc and push the disc out of true. I have before run a car in the rolling road whilst applying the foot brake just under the point of lock up and this can show a fluctuation on the brake causing the problem but this is usually only apparent when the wobble is quite severe which yours isn't.

Surely that cost more than replacing the brakes anyway? All that aside i would still replace the discs and pads and see what happens. Dont rule out a problem with the rear discs either. We all like to apply some degree of logic to the cuase of a fault but in reality sometimes you find the cure without fully knowing the cause.

Quite honestly Joel any small amount of play in track rod end ball joints or suspension arm ball joints/bushes almost never actually causes the vibration. I have driven cars on many a road test that have performed faultlessly only to inspect it on a ramp and find many parts which would ideally need replacing. I would suggest your problem lies with the brake discs or disc run out. You really need to get a magnetic dial gauge and test the disc run out with the wheel nuts holding the brake disc firmly against the hub flange. Sometimes this doesnt even expose the problem and replacing the disc cures the fault. It may be worth removing your discs and making sure the mating faces of the disc and hub flange are totally clean.

I should have put my sister brought them over from dublin....... apologies for a senior moment.

Took delivery of these today. £27 with free delivery from Dublin (i had them dropped to her and she brought them over today). I have a Momo steering wheel with red stitching to match the 99 spec gear knob and the wheel also has some small chrome inserts which will fit nicely with these handles.

What are you testing Joel?

What's my prize? [emoji4]

Wheels? Looks like rears on the front?

The Rx8 uses DSC so all wheel speed inputs inc steering angle and yaw rate, plus longitudinal and lateral acceleration inputs are monitored continuously.

Check wiring from body to front abs sensors as this could be damaged and only affected when on a slight lock The tcs system is seeing a sudden change in wheel speed and or the yaw rate sensor (if this car has one) and compensating for that. Live data logging whilst on test drive should expose the wheel which is changing speed.

If you get the crank at the right angle you can turn all the cams without valve to piston contact allowing the leak down test to be performed very quick.

Do a leak down test through the plug hole ensuring the valves on the cylinder being tested are both in the closed posistion. You wont need to do any work to the engine to do that.

I found my red stich one brand new in california for £75 all in after shipping and duties. Worth every penny.

Can a man of your intelligence not count to 5? [emoji23]

Your better off having a higher excess charge if it reduces your premium by a significant amount. The excess is only payable IF you make a claim and most likely you wont need to, whereas the premium is payable straight away. The saving you make on your premium year on year by having a higher excess charge will far outweigh the cost of the excess in the event of a claim. And i personally never bother with all the extras the insurance companies try to sell you.

It does seem insurance companies only offer good deals for the first year. Whilst the quote from Lancaster for the Z was quite high i got a quote for my daily (JDM Hilux surf) for £200. My current insurer for this vehicle (Admiral) quoted £500! So this year i have insured both cars for considerably less than the quote for one..... Will have to play the game again when the RX7 is on the road.

Mine is considerably bigger than yours........[emoji14]