tomfromthenorth

That is awesome, if I fit my white LEDs behind the cluster without starting a fire I might have a look into it!

A mile south of David, and I am trespassing, or rather I will be if the vote goes yes!

I am not trying to scare you, but I don't think it will be just, oil in the exhaust, pretty sure it is grey/white if you just "fry" oil, it is blue when it is combusted. A lot of tuned up cars cough black as you lift off, might be just the way it is.

Hi mate, welcome to the club, I am Lossiemouth so only an hour or so away. That's 3 red zeds on the Moray Firth. :thumbup1:

Haha, I have a smooth nose panel that I am painting myself, however at the minute it still looks like Homer Simpson painted it, once it is up to standard it will go on. I want to have a hand in each aspect of my cars restoration personally. Oh and Phutumsch, it's a "Malard alighting proper" "Semper Vigilante" :biggrin:

Cleaned it for 4 hours.

That is how stiff the springs are. I would speak to a coilover person about that. Ring Ohlins to enquire, write down what they suggest then get back to BC and get the appropriate stiffnesses.

Good man! :) Zeds teach you how to control a vehicle.

The screws made from cheese strike again :thumbup1:

Alan I am so sorry to hear that, I hope there is some way you can speak to someone onboard who can discuss your options without immediately sending you home. Sharing your feelings will do a world of good. That said be careful mate, working on a rig with your head doing 100mph hour, please don't get yourself hurt too. If you need a helicopter it will be me tonight, I can pass on that hug from Vods. Thinking of you and your family mate :clover:

Sounds like it might be a boost leak, the way that the boost dropped off sharply then would run after a restart. Because at idle it would kind of run, the black fuel smelling smoke would support this as air leaking after the MAF would not reach the engine and it would overfuel.

Thank you Si :thumbup: I found this, Very clean Celica by the way mate :)

All of them :biggrin: So until we get a convincing photoshop of shadow chrome. back to question 1

Yeah scary stuff :clover:

Not you too spin doctor :lol: of all the people haha. Come on team white wheels "Mark Derby! Back me up!"

Looks really nice mate :clap:

If you get turbonoz to do it he will set the EBC up too. There are a load of settings on them to get lost in. Gain is how hard it comes on boost and is probably the most technical one. You can map a car without ebc You can fit ebc to a car that isnt mapped But if you just slap an ebc on (or use jets or whatever) and increase boost, the engine doesn't know what to do with the extra air. A remap isn't that much and neither is an ebc, not after an engine rebuild. Get both and the mapping will get the car running as well as it possibly can with the pick and mix of tuning parts it has, both in terms of power and reliability.

I think you already know this so sorry if it's sucking eggs, but the map is seperate to the EBC. The map is done on the ecu and is all about fueling and timing and what the engine should do in different situations. The EBC interupts the feed to the wastegate actuators to control the flow of exhaust gas that reaches the power turbine. The advantages are, selectable boost levels, variable boost harshness or how it comes on boost, stuff like safety mode and overboost buttons. I think of it like if you want your house at 20 degrees, you can either set the thermostat to 20. Or you can set it to 40, to make your heating go to maximum attack, then once it is at 20 you can turn the dial back down to 20, smug that you tricked it. An ebc can do that on the actuator feed line to reduce turbo lag a bit. And control wandering boost. As I understand it, following a map you can turn the boost down from there but perhaps not up. Noz set my car to max reliable boost anyway so higher would be daft. I hope this is about right, if I am wrong please know that I am trying to be helpful not trying to be smart.

Its probably a, "wheels that only a mother could love" sort of a thing. I really like them, and was just wondering what to do on the subtleties of the red and white bits. I like shadow chrome, but not really on red. HOWEVER, I may like it when I see it, I will try and mock it up. Light silver is a no for me, as is black. I am 70% white, 30% anthracite or whatever.

You lot are gona hate me when I get them done white :lol: :surrender:

This is getting tricky :wacko:

It'd be a hard sell Si but I'd consider it. You'll have to get your MS Paint on :) I wouldn't go black, although a lot of people do, it looks too mean to my eye. Sort of adds attitude to the car I am not after.

The refurb place can't do the red ring, I would consider new nuts, and the centre caps don't come in red and the current spray job is flaky. The brakes are black, what do we think?

Thank you guys, I don't consider myself a chancer, or someone who takes risks with safety equipment (including tyres) those cracks have worsened, the slash I have just noticed. I often feel tread depth after a drive, checking the temperature across the face and always drive with enough tread. I can afford to run a zed, but the price of tyres totally to one side, after a respray, remap and unexpected O2 sensor replaced plus a 1000 mile round trip to pick it up, mars bars feel expensive this week! With my is it legal, is it not plate... Stuck on plates are illegal, but all the miles I did with the other one, I had no issues, partly because I am mr 30mph mr 50mph and mr 60mph 90% of the time, I treat every car as a cop, plus many other rules I use to keep myself out of bother. My job is doing dangerous things carefully, I apply a similar mindset to driving passionately, when the time is right, I DRIVE the car. So the plate was the only small misdominor, this one is also clear, reflective, on a legal car. I expect I will be ok, or get told to sort it out. But yeah, highlights the need to be squeaky clean.

I will get some brand new fronts, I know you can't mess about with rubber, those cracks have quickly worsened and those grooves were in the tread block not the carcass. The rears... might have to wait, 2 front tyres are cheaper than, 6 points.