tomfromthenorth

Hmm, mine has a noise like gravel flicking up your arches, or someone opening a bag of crisps, in neutral at 3500 or in gear at light throttle around that rpm. It hits a wall at about the same rpm or 3/4psi. But it is intermittent??? Don't mean to hijack your thread steve, once I get it worked out I will update my ancillaries in a month thread. Im gonna reduce my spark gaps a bit. Buy a timing light (even though the nissan datascan reads 15 btdc) and see if I can check my bores while I am at it. Might put some sort of fuel cleaner throhgh as I had the tank totally drained for a while, it may have water vapour in there, and I will dry my MAFs.

Oh dear, my car is doing exactly this! I hoped it was water ingestion as it has been a bloody tempest up here with a lot of spray. A definite crackle if you rev it to 3.5 on over run in neutral, that or blowing out the plugs as it was like a rev limiter! I very very carefully gapped my new BCR8ES to what Noz said in another post which I think was 0.9! Oh dear.

Just an idea. Turn it off, start the car in gear, drive along with 10% throttle, dip the clutch, if the revs react it means your clutch is damaged. If they don't react it means the clutch may be fine but linkage gone. If it won't go into gewr or sounds awful your gearbox may be knackered.

I don't know, but to my eye, the damage is above the sill and so is probably repairable. Had it knackered the sill things would be a lot worse.

That is a work of art :bow:

I don't think you can enhance the image, the information is not there, you can't create pixels that weren't captured. Not to say all is lost, I think you have enough to get the car. Go back to the police with what you have, area, colour, model, northern irish, partial plate. They can almost certainly track that down now. And your insurance are going to love you for doing all that work, they don't want to pay out for it, they want the other driver to pay for the damage. Get them onboard. :clover:

I leave mine well alone these days, back when I used to be a pansy I turned it down to 12psi in the wet, I use my right foot as boost control now. But, they reduce turbo lag (as I understand it) someone will probably prove me wrong :lol:

Forget that it's fake for now spin and please take a little solice in this, That was an awesome original idea, you have done a grade A job of fitting it, I am impressed, it looks ace. Leave the box in there and wire the potentiometers up to interior lights or something, then fit a proper one under the seat some time.

Happy Birthday Si :biggrin: Have a great day :happybday:

mine still hasn't arrived! Buy cheap...

That is just shocking, very moving. lest we forget.

Take names, take notes, everything will help. Someone somewhere has a bent car. Act now mate and you will likely catch them. Get some evidence in the bag, get video statements from the witnesses or something. Someone is gonna go to a bodyshop or a garage, if you have 5 reports of "dark metalic bmw" for example, that will go a long way to your cause. Just act mate, I've had to deal with some awful stuff, as long as you are moving forward and doing all you can it feels alright. Dont stop and flounder. This will get sorted out :clover:

About that, 20 or so ft lbs, really strange, how I didn't strip the thread I don't know. I was being so very very careful. Just gonna do them tight ish by hand this time. :headvswal: Mark is getting me some new bolts.

It was all going so well. Reassembling the intake mainfold, closely following the service manual I tightened the throttle body bolts in order to 5 ft-lbs. Then a second lap, to 15 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. Click... next one Click... next one BANG! :hurl: I sheared a bolt in the plenum. Today I took the plenum into work (in the boot of my mx5 haha) we managed to drill and extract it, without any obvious damage to the threads. We then tested the tourque wrench on a very expensive looking Augusta Westland machine, found it to be very inconsistent and generally over torqueing by 10 foot pounds! Do not buy tools off ebay.

Bonding with your zed on the drive home :) mine leaked fuel on the way home, gotta love them. Glad you're alright mate.

I decided to stay with 370cc injectors because the car is running well on 6 probably original ones already. So 6 good as new and slightly better designed ones should give another 24 years of service. I can't get the car mapped up here if I went bigger. Even on some postal chip I could fit, 500 miles to Noz' place for a proper map, would be daft and extortionate. Ideally I'd have fitted 555s but the 450ish horsepower the car has is awesome and it will only be better for all this work. I was planning to stop at 500 anyway, I know the 370s can't make 500 but they can certainly make my last dyno (430 at the engine) which is lovely to drive.

All true Stephen, but what Noz said as I understand it is The knock sensor can drop boost to 7psi The knock sensor can also trigger a different map on the ECU Or rather does both at the same time, but if you remove the solenoid it (the det sensor) will just change the map.

Might be in trouble here, my big box arrived this morning and I have been cracking on with all I can. I removed the fuel rail and the injectors and have found that I have missed some "fuel rail insulators" off my shopping list. I bought new style OEM 370cc injectors and the kit to put them in a 1991 rail. I didn't realise there are 6 little rubber "insulators beneath the rail that I haven't replaced. I might be in trouble, what do people think?

Only using the solenoids, but noz has said ot can change the mapping to a safety map. Regardless of boost the timing and whatever else it can control will be restricted.

I would like to and add my own thank you to Mark on this thread. I must have been a bit of a pain with this order from CZP that Mark has put in for me, but nontheless he not only ordered a load of stuff for me (and I don't know that he makes any profit doing so) but then sent it on to Lossiemouth. He went above and beyond by leaving his garage for me mid morning, to get it sent off by special delivery. Its arrival today has meant that I can get the car fixed before I go to the falklands next month. I have had a few dealings with Mark and not only have I always seen him to be a good knowledgeable mechanic, but moreover a very fair and patient man who takes the time to answer, explain and help out. 10/10 Thank you.

So what I have done, leaving them plugged in but not plumbed in should be ok? It shouldn't throw a code or put it in safety map?

I didn't know it had that feature till I read up on it today, and I am glad to say that's because I have never set it off :) I don't just wait for the water gauge to hit the middle! I have a full on warm up procedure mate :lol: I went crackers at my cousin once for going gentle 1st, 2nd, 3rd, then f$@#ing WOT in 4th. He was rebriefed shall we say.

I already have a HKSEVC5 boost controller so they weren't doing anything, other than the way that one had been left, I think was a boost leak. My EBC sits near the battery, takes a reading from the ballance bar, then runs a vac/boost line outwards that goes down to the passenger turbo, then underneath the engine and up into the bottom of the driver turbo actuator. Glad I didn't fit it! But if I had, I wouldnt have left a bloody open vac line on the passenger boost solenoid.

I found these while poking about, I wrongly identified them as prvr solenoids from this picture, because that's basically where they can be found. Here is one of mine They are a 2 stage factory fitted electronic boost controller. We all know the det sensor can initiate safety boost, sometimes it dies and the ecu worries and also enters safety boost. It is the boost solenoids that alow the car to do that. They must just be a 2 position restrictor inside the cylinder that sit between the pressure source and the wastegate (just like any boost control) to set either normal 9psi or safety 7psi. I found my passenger side one had a snapped off vac line (a possible boost leak but I don't know) which prompted this digging. Upon inspection I found this I sent these pictures to a mate hence the daft annotations. So what I decided to do was to chin them off, as they are a potential point of failure, my det sensor is already dead, I don't want them. But I didn't want to panic my ecu so I left them in, blocked the feed from the turbo intake and looped the two ports. If I am right this is a sucsessful bypass. PLEASE COMMENT IF ANY OF THIS IS WRONG. I am not too proud :)

I wear a big hoodie (a castrol one :lol:) that covers my fly and I always watch out but I had a helper hauling the loom out while I was in the footwell poking it through the firewall. Think that tallys with the mark on the wing. Any ideas on the boost solenoids?