tomfromthenorth

I think historically it has been the bush more than the rack. It is the size of a film camister on the back of the hub.

I have a thread on a similar topic mate. It could be a lot of things, I found a thread on here started by JeffTT that showed how a relay in the fuse box can knacker your engine up too. I'll have a look hang on...

Prior preperation prevents poor ptu performance or something like that :lol:

Good work Ian

Action shot??? Before you get mod of the month :biggrin:

I do my oil every 1500 miles or sooner if I see a drop in pressure. It goes off really quickly when it goes, starts tapping for more than 30 seconds on start and the hot pressure will be uncomfortably low. I'd start with an oil change.

+1 :)

Bump as I am looking at this atm.

I am hesitant to go replacing electrical units, could rapidly get pricey, so I hope I catch one red handed and can do just that, I have 2 MAFs as well to make diagnosis a bit trickier.

At full throttle it has a soft hesitation as it carries itself over the problem. I have only tried a copcouple of times. Normally as I carefully accelerate at 1/4 throttle it cuts hard, but that could be me flinching off the throttle as it cuts. Perhaps some multi meter tests on these components?

So next time it plays up, pull over and while it's faultering and dying, unplug the MAF? Or the CAS? See what it does. Coukd these things be that intermittent?

My car has an intermittent engine problem. I am not going to say what I think it is as I want an un influenced set of suggestions. There is nothing obviously wrong, it runs absolutely brilliantly, strong as an ox. Smooth brilliant... then with no pattern or trigger that I can find it runs really badly. It has done it most at 60/70 in fifth at a neutral throttle, it suddenly has a subtle "open closed open" throttle sort of faulter. In a lower gear it is a non rhythymic but obvious drop of power as if its running out of fuel. It can also come with backfiring, if I slow to a stop when it is faultering it backfires on overrun then in neutral the revs bounce from 250rpm to 700rpm in a "brup-brup-brup-brup" sort of a way then it will stall. It does it for a period of time then is fine again. The problem is there for about 10 minutes every hour I drive it. Really stumped, hope we come to some good ideas guys :)

Bloody hell Noel! :sorcerer:

Well said Si :thumbup1: That uk model does look nice.

Thats interesting, because you get a lot of 'push' at roundabouts and stuff? I can see how it would give you great traction and how it would be totally consistent with how it slides about But don't know much about them. Going round a bend though only one of your back wheels will be at the right speed and the other will be spinning or dragging? Or is the difference in wheel speed small enough on the large arcs of normal corners that that doesn't happen? I'll have to have a google :)

Might as well weld the knackered one right? Not sure it's much good if it's lost it's lockyness (double word score :lol:) I don't know the legalities of a welded diff on the road, the couple I have seen I spotted in car parks on bmws chirping and scrubbing at low speed. I imagine you will get a lot of oversteer, try it mate :) I'd like a go with one.

Very sorry to hear this. Next time the sun is out I hope we all grasp the opportunity and enjoy our zeds and be thankful that we are able to. God bless her.

I don't think it's a specialist job, it's like any other rwd clutch as far as I know. I don't think I will go back now I've used a "Competition Clutch" clutch. A stock one will probably be fine for you, but I personally would give myself some headroom and call up Competition clutch uk, ask some questions. I personally like a strong clutch, they will get yiu one that is a disc, stronger than stock but totally smooth to use.

I can imagine they are, I think 30-130 is the Zed's place to shine.

I didn't time it, we were timing 60 feet and I was just feeling the launches. I wasn't rushing it into second at all, just launching in first then a fairly normal "one pause two" shift into second. I was getting 2 second 60ft times I think, whatever they were they were pretty rubbish. I have about 450hp flywheel and 265 profile rear tires with a 6 puck clutch. Suprisingly it was easier to bog it down then spin it up. It was generally bogging down... then spinning up. The best way (would be to ask a drag racer) Would be to keep your turbos working with a bit of clutch slip. It's bloody difficult to do well.

Probably sensible guesses there mate. What the car could do and what most drivers can actually do is different. I think I am fairly handy in a car but when I did launch it hard from a stand still it is so much harder than booting it from 5mph. It is really difficult to do well. And I did it 10 times to check :lol: I think the top end would be really high given enough road but by the 175 you mention I reckon it would be slow progress. Mine did 150+ down the runway no bother at all.

Happy Birthday mate :happybday:

Joely, are you thinking along these lines :biggrin:

Oh mate sorry to hear that, you've had a bad run of luck recently, I honestly hope it improves for you. Working on exhausts I imagine is like suspension parts and a total pain. The bolts have been; tight, then bloody hot, then covered in dirt, for a long time! All I can suggest on this thread mate :clover:

I would imagine Funky Si has really good suspension, for a bit lower but still comfortable. I think he has shocks and springs, kyb or kgb or whatever? Can't remember. As good as my miester rs are (really good and still comfortable) they're gona be a bit harder than stock.