Zedzilla

I think i'm in love.

Go for the 2 litre, hell of a good engine and many toyotas run that same motor, ie rav 4, corona, caldina etc etc

I can't edit my last post... R.I.P fellow zedder, could happen to any of us.

Was cruising along in my other car last year side by side with a done up silvia.... low as heck bodykit niceeeee wheels etc.... really really tidy car..... he went to foot it past in the wet, heard him spool up watched my mirror and saw the back step out about a foot to the left. then saw him over correct it to hell. I dropped 3rd gear and took off as quick as i could make my little toyota go, his car snapped back the rear to the right and he came about a foot off my bumper as the rear swung past (he was doing about 80mph) spun it alll the way across 4 lanes of motorway then put rear quarter into the concrete barrier... hit it so damn hard the whole car swung round lightning fast and the front left piled in afterwards. He was alright but it can all go bad to worse really quick. Same happened when i spun out my last Z and totalled it, local road works guys said it nearly went arse over front, all i saw was tarmac and sky. :pinch:

This thread now serves a greater purpose, ie me not totalling my car towing it. :rockon:

Well thank you sir, i wouldn't have thought of that, so the other fella saying back off the gas and no brakes would get it true again? when it had the little wobbles i would have thought if you had some serious grunt the car would be able to right it, but you would gain speed obviously. I've never had this happen and i've towed alot of cars, i guess i just go damn slow, how do truckies get thier trailers to straighten out when this happens, ive gone past some pretty wobbley trucks.

Helps if i put the link dunnit... [YOUTUBE]rCfFbQpmqWk[/YOUTUBE]

Shame he didn't have some grunt to kick in to get it pulling true again.

More for a standard car? :blink: I'm packinge my bags, i'll bring the weather.

I must be in the wrong country, here even if you supply the windscreen the fitting alone would be 150 quid.

I actually wonder if there was ever anything between those 2 metal blocks that the cables bolt into, wouldn't suprise me if the landlord fitted it himself.

Seeing as we are on the fire topic i'll throw this in We're talking geez, 30 years ago? My grandfather used to have a panel shop. Burnt to the ground one night, tracked it down to the car batteries shorting in the wrecked cars. So lesson learnt and batterys were always unhooked before lock up/ removed if car wasnt to be moved etc. Then one night somebody forgot one car, and he lost the lot again, not a problem with newer car batteries, but back then it was. Also had a mates car catch fire while we were driving along and watched a car that took 6 years to build go up in smoke. Never did find the cause. Damn cavemen and thier discoveries.

I nearly gave up on my project when i had the garage robbed when the car was in bits and left with little more than a shell the suspension and the gearbox as far as metal bits went. But alas, i love her. :wub:

Bloodey 'ell... that thing mustve had a hell of alot of moisture in it to do that after just 4 years. would have to be sealed up properly to avoid it especially with the shower heads on the hose. Glad everybody is okay mate.

Gotta spend the money in the right places and on proper gear... 700hp out of a Z is easily achieveable, but to do it right you'd be spending at least 8-10k on the motor and another 2-3k on engine control and tuning. You're looking at - injectors, turbos, dual intake, extractors, test pipes, free flwoing exhaust, upgraded cams, port and polish titanium valves, intercoolers, adjustable cam gears... and possibly upgraded pistons and rods.... then you've got your fuel system which is going to require surge tanks and some seriously beefy pumps, braided fuel lines. I'm sure that list could go on alot further, the powers achievable with the right parts to very successfully run a daily driven 700hp Z But chances are by the time you buy all that your fuel bill will be so high you'll never drive it. I mean hell there are guys in the drifting championship here running sr20det at 730hp. Don't last very long though lol

Don't know how relevant this info is... 2+2 n/a auto in an '89 TT chassis Front rims are 17x8 running 215/45 Rear are a 18x10 running 285/40 toyo proxes t1R's Unsure on offset but can look later if anybody needs the info to guide me further. Also looking at going up to a 235 on the fronts.

Hey guys just wondering if anybody can give advice on setting up the Z suspension wise. Ride height needs to ideally sit chassis rails 100mm or more from the ground. From there the alignment guys will let me do the tweaks myself, i have got adjustable front and rear traction arms, adjustable front and rear camber, and adjustable rear toe arms (n/a subframe, no hicas), also have rear subframe lock collars. the coilovers are body adjustable BC red's, body adjustable so i can change ride height seperate to the spring pre load. I've read a fair bit of suspension stuff regarding ride height and the effects of having your lower arm mount aligned with the lower ball joint centre etc. Really what i want is a high grip set up, ideally try tune a bit of understeer out of it, but i suspect thats going to require beefing up the rear sway bar. At the end of the day i guess small tweaks will be required but with the changed ride height i figured setting factory camber etc wouldn't be of much use to me? Figured i'd throw it out there anyway. Cheers.

I've got to check out the missus Z tommorrow, similar problem, its an auto n/a we just got for her. Has stalled at traffic lights twice just as she comes to a stop, but she reckons it's idling "just under a grand" factory manuals say 750-900, so i'm guessing a failing idle air. What would you reccomend i idle this thing at? She says if she keeps a grand of revs on as she pulls it to a stop it wont stall, but i don't really want to have it idling at 1k.

I dont see anything on his location now, this guy is like batman.

I just went to my local welding supply shop and got some double walled power cable, wasn't cheap but really good cable, about 30 quid for 5 or 6 metres. Just ran that from front to rear then earth strap to the strut tower.

Thier concern is you've narrowed down your location far too much. Non members can't see the forum but anybody can join...

I hear ya man.

The piece with the ziptie on it is just a sandwich plate to go between stock block mount and filter the have sensors put inbetween.

Somebody PLEASE lend this man a car. He really is a true Zedder.