Zedzilla

Not really a fan of it myself as there are much nicer bumpers out there, That actually looks very similar to one of the do-luck style bumpers. Personally i really like my ab-flug type 4 ...

Was really tempted to burn mine to the ground the other day too, know exactly how ya feel, just leave it and chill out for a couple of days, think rationally and take it step by step and all is well :)

Much like me on that one spiff, there was a Z32 that used to pick up a chick in my class from school back when i was about 13.... used to miss the bus looking at it and talking to him about it, decided i had to have one someday, then many years on after motorbikes, then getting into cars a bit i decided i didn't want a fwd toyota anymore... They really do have a presence though, everywhere i take it it seems every head turns and i get alot of comments on how good a choice of car it is... It's still a really silly car to own, but what old sports car isn't...

Unplug coilpacks with engine running one by one, make sure they are all making a difference when you unplug em... mine was making exact same noise was just one of the back cylinders dropped out. the noise made me worry big time, but it doesnt sound major. - - - Updated - - - That thing is definately running on 5.

Would have sold it long ago, but there is just something about them, it's not a car it's a relationship. As impractical, unreliable, expensive to run, mocked, leaky as it is.... They just inspire something in ya. In saying this, i'm at a point of getting out of them soon, as they are getting old and i just can't be arsed spending my weekends with my head under a bonnet anymore. A great car, if just a weekend playtoy, but a Z really is something you can't have as a daily car and trust it will never let ya down. It's simply not that kind of car given its age. A beautiful car, a stunning piece of engineering for it's day. But we are now 23 years later, and there are some really nice cars out there for sensible money.

Have you got a pic of the wheel in your car by chance Gary? They are a nice wheel and the genuine Nardi are expensive. A shop here i buy alot of bits off does this in 2 styles, the one i showed earlier, and one with a concaved centre without the step down. Around 50-60 pounds i would imagine. Here are both the styles he has, still not sure which to go for... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResults.aspx?&cid=877&searchType=&searchString=luxury+sports+nardi&x=0&y=0&searchregion=100&type=Search&sort_order=&redirectFromAll=False&rptpath=all&generalSearch_keypresses=19&generalSearch_suggested=0

Hey Baz just looking at ya sig, there more pics of ya car somewhere? Also where did you source the bolt on rear arches from, i'm digging the sans sideskirts. I have no skirts and trying to pull off a decent look without em.

Looking at nardi wheels and a quick release boss kit. Can choose between 330mm and 350mm Just wondering if a 330mm wheel is too small, does it become a pain for reaching the control pods etc.

Got it all fully apart now no need to have a marked belt as the tooth count is in the manual.... Counted the teeth and marked up the belt, about to go put it on. Timing done by last person was off by a tooth at the crank (or it slipped) thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Mark.

Had same problem with mine, water pipe temp sensor having a bad connection can cause it. Try these... http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274507 http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335

Don't think it's too many pins for the ciggy lighter as the same plug feeds the light for it, so could be that, the power/hold button runs a square plug, it doesn't really look like a factory z32 plug to me, where can you source it back to, and what are the wiring colours.

This should be an interesting day, right now its all stripped off with the belt off. Pulling it apart is the easy bit though.

Yeap going to give the tank a good clean out. spotted the timing notch in the crank pulley and when lined up with 0 on the lower cover the cams are all 2 teeth off... to me thats one tooth slipped at the crank end. i'll update with how i get on, can't afford another belt, nothing wrong with this one so i'll just have to tooth count it. - - - Updated - - - Where in NZ are ya? never seen another kiwi lurking here.

Thanks for the help guys, i wouldn't have thought a belt would throw it out this far when they are all very close to matching the backing plate, but not quite, i also suspect the engine could be from a 1990 model which has the bad heads, Shook out the fuel filter today after letting it dry up a bit, what came out was almost like clay or the material a mason bee would have in its nest.... all the crud from the bottom of the tank no doubt. So my current to do list then is fuel filter. injector o-rings (for good measure) fuel lines. genuine belt. This really is the wrong car to be a daily driver when i'm unemployed and job hunting. Logic says sell it, but logic is thrown aside when it's a Z... it's a love hate relationship that requires money... and patience. Things i am a bit short on. Ahh well we shall see how all this goes then. What are peoples kidneys worth nowadays?

I checked the line up of the cams and they are all in line with backplate as best as they could be for a non genuine belt.... is there an easy way for me to check the bottom end timing without yanking the pulley to see the indents in the crank belt pulley? wanting to do a mechanical check as opposed to using a timing light as the cas could throw it off.

Been through everything with my n/a jap import Z I can confirm *no air leaks *all electircal components ohm test fine, are connecting well and operating correctly. *cas has to be turned to full advance to have any power. cas has been checked, is no wear to splines or half moons in cam end or cas unit itself. *using around 50 litres fuel for 300km mixed driving. *fitted an aftermarket fuel reg, fuel at 43psi when engine cold and barely missing, fuel pressure drops to 40psi at idle when upto temp and missing issues increase. *fuel filter when emptied can only be described as instant coffee granules in my fuel *park car outside shops warm, sometimes hard to start and requires WOT to start (new symptom) Apologies for the poor audio from compressing the video, can still hear the missing and sputtering as i go over the one way bridge. I am now thinking injector seals are leaking hence i have to advance it to lean it out. Any other thoughts? [YOUTUBE]-jig_7HSFjI[/YOUTUBE]

Most common thing with zeds, the t junctions off the water pipes out the back of the motor rust around where the hoses plug on and sometimes just inside the hose out of sight... they run off to the throttle bodies, dont need them... remove pipes, 2 10mm bolts on each. hacksaw the old t junctions off go get them brazed up..... cut out a couple of bits of gaskets paper, slap it back in, best to replace the rubber heater hoses. can also cause other water system items to fail prematurely, so check the ocndition of your radiator cap and it always pays to throw a new thermostat in if you never know where it was last done. dont pour cold water into it if it overheats, shut it off and wait at least an hour or youll crack the heads.ill usually put the obttles of water in the engine bay somewhere they wont melt to heat the water a bit before putting it in.... anything is better than cold! You'll get there in the end its a simple fix takes about 2-3 hours on ya first time if the intake mani is on, if you got big fingers dont even bother trying unless you can rope in somebody mechanically competent with skeleton hands.

FIXED!!!!! Cas pin was worn motor i bought must be a damn 1990... Advanced the crap out of it and it pulls like mad. still has a slight idle miss and will sometimes idle at 1700rpm, which can be either tps or the water pipe temp sensor, tps is okay and set so its definately the sensor on its way out... but who cares... idling is no fun anyway ^_^

replaced everything, ecu ptu, fuel pump control unit etc. literally everything. hence im out of ideas. i changed the water pipe temp sensor the ecu reads from as the articles i have read state it could be that failing, the car does rev higher when i unplug the unit, can these partially fail and send a bad temp reading to the ecu, i get no ohm reading at all across the pins, yet it does work. just put in 27 litres of fuel, got 86km out of it. its so pig rich its ridiculous.

i set the tps with multimeter to 0.43 volts... i just changed the idle air control unit for yet another... i set the idle to 720rpm with it unplugged and upto to temp. the moment i plug the AAC on it revs at 1700rpm, straight after changing the unit it idled perfect no missing... ive checked the water temp sensor at least 10 times, and ive swapped it, getting no reading at all across the pins on either unit when the engine isnt running but unplugging it does make the car idle faster. I have no money to go and buy a timing light. zip zero nada and i need this car running so i can get to job interviews... i have adjusted cas to various positions to no avail, i would love to throw every bit of tech and thousands of dollars at it if needed. i simply have NO money.

i've been going through this article.... http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z%20Tech/Z%20Tech%20PDF's/Curing%20Erratic%20Idle.pdf he say 0.7 ohms for the coil packs, im getting 1.3 on all of mine including spares. i also notice if i turn the tps to a certain point a can hear something electrical making a buzzing noise, as far as i can tell it sounds like its coming from down by the starter motor, which is making nil sense to me. really really getting sick of it...

and yes ive googled and scoured the internet endlessly before asking.

hey guys, ive spent everyday for a month fluffing about trying to make my z run right still got the same issue. The motor i got it with had suspected done head gaskets. misfired at idled spluttering etc. i had another motor around and dropped that in it suprise suprise same issue with the idle. (old motor is toast now) The symptoms were missing at idle and just general gutlessness. I have replaced... Motor and gearbox. ECU, TPS, PTU, AFM/MAF, All injector plugs, idle air control yellow plug changed. water pipe sensor and plug changed. Checked everything its all working does what it is supposed to for the most part. It will not idle under 1500rpm if i set the tps at anything but ever so slightly off full anti clockwise, 4.45v it just laughs at me and revs high. with it turned full anti clockwise it idles just under 1000rpm but sits there going brrrrPI...PIPbbrrrIPI brrrr just missing away randomly, i tweaked CAS angle today as it did seem retarded (dont have a timing light) if i leave it for a while say 30 mins or so it will sometimes run fine at first and not miss at idle ( not cold enough to use its cold idle up) when i give it its first rev when it comes back down it misses and splutters. and starts running crappy again, sometimes i can drive it down the road before this will happen. If i drop my boot from stopped the thing leaves a ploom of black smoke, and it drinks gas like mad all the time. i know its alot to go through here but i really am at the end of my tether and if there was a can of gasoline around... the car would be getting a "wash" followed by a lighter. I did notice when i took the plugs that were new when i put them in the old motor... and put those into the current motor, it ran absolutely perfect at first no miss at all. same thing happened initially when they went into the old motor too... i would say they were fouled but tan colour when taken from old motor and ran spot on when first put in. Could this be a coilpack issue? i cant throw anymore money at it, i cannot pay somebody to fix it or even stick it on a diagnostic... i have a toolbox of spanners etc a multimeter and a hammer. help. :censored: - - - Updated - - - 1991 jdm n/a auto....

facepalm xD

I havnt had any problems with the boost i run, so just set 0psi and up your compression and take that heavy spinning blade of death off each header....