Zedzilla

idle has got a bit better now i ended up finding a vac leak... now the thing wont rev over 4k up hills and drinks gas, im suspecting cas adjustment, out with the timing light if the weather ever becomes nice again

cheers for that mate, good to confirm some things. i have bypassed everything, found a small airleak in a stuffed vac line, alot better now,, still feels down on power from the old motor, i suspect the lack of backprerssure in the new exhaust is giving me grief

both are 21 number ECU's unsure off top of my head what plugs i put in. this one has the correct n/a iridium equivelants, the last motor had pzfr6b? is a number off the box that pops into my head, some ngk laser platinums

Just swapped the rooted motor out of sarahs old ZX, still having an idle problem misses and pops, drops down to 800rpm slutters sometimes down to 500 then picks back up to 1000 and idles perfect for 10 seconds, then does it all over again, i had exact same problem with old motor, the new motor is good goes well just idles like shit, i have swapped the AFM PTU ECU TPS Idle air intake valve. there is a unit next to idle air valve a square diaphram unit linked between the idle valve and centre of the balance pipe, nothing seems to change regardless of this being plugged in or not. what is its purpose? Modifications to drivetrain are HKS pod, single exit 4 inch exhaust 2.5 downpipes, no cat, EGR delete AIV delete PRVR delete PCV delete A/C removed, JDM 1991 2+2 n/a auto. opinions? i'm running out of ideas on this one.

Stella for a suburban housewife you live an exciting lifestyle. no wonder you get along so well with the boys :P ... sorry ive been building up to give you a little crap after my hiatus.

Only facetube... Mark Stebbing, the one who looks like a sheep... Also send a join invite to Z32 owners page.

Took a decent pic today, should show the look of it better...

i would object but its the truth lol

One more pic for now .... i've almost got as much primer as young mikey bean :P

I'm getting there man, just got the front bumper today ... piccy...

the bellhousing work is the trickier part of all of it, you'll also need a tt radiator, a rad lower mount adaptor from z1.... TT rad upper mounts, TT intercooler piping and intercoolers .... etc etc... its the little bits that make it add up, allow half the engine cost again for little bits and pieces.

All still here, perhaps try a different internet browser.

I just happened to stumple upon it whiole searching for pictures on making custom wheel tubs, took me about 3 hours before i left :P

how much extra to post one up to twin turbo rich so he can send it with all my goodies>

I'd really rather not and i don't think the old man would be too happy either.

What was nasty was the only zx swap i have seen going around and he had put a 350z front on a 300zx.... it was then i went nahhh there has to be a Z in existance with a decent swap.... probably helps i'm mad as a hatter though.

Maybe many of you have seen this site before, they have some really nice builds and detailed write ups... thought some of you may want to have a look if ya building something. http://streetoptions.co.uk/

Hmm that could work, looks like a rocket bunny spoiler.

Apologies zedders, had alot of rain here and ive had to change certifier, alot of legality issues surrounding crumple zones of the car etc, but it looks like i have the go ahead now and the right way to do it, looks like i will have to make some new wheel tubs from scratch too. Ahh well, stay tuned.

If it's still blowing smoke and the injectors have been out there may be a torn o ring flooding it with fuel, what colour is the smoke? by all rights they cant charge you again, you bought it in to be fixed its not your problem if they cock up the job.

Sounds to me like the timing is way off...

My concern is it will be a bit too flashy for the ZX... she will lose all elegance.

NONONONO.... NO NEVER ever ever set them to hardest or softest damping, always one click off or they will jam... if you want the shocks to have less travel up the spring preload the damping just controls how fast the spring moves, its the weight of the car that is causing the problem so more pre load on the spring is going to require more whack for the same travel.... there is some adjustment in the factory camber arms, and factory rear toe bars on an n/a toe can give u of more room if done right, but of course understeer/oversteer depending how you set it, if you have hicas it could be wreaking havoc in this department, and with all the altered suspension geometry it won't be working as it should anyway.

they're catching on your guard..... Rim and tyre are WAY too far out for how much camber you've got. you'll have to get your guards rolled. just to fold up the lip that steps inwards.

The other option i'm considering is the works 9