zed-racer

Ok, thanks Gary, that’s a good start but I’m thinking 4m per side, and 2m should cover the front and back. That’s 10m total and then I think I’d get 14m just to be sure. I guess you’d cover the large parts first and then use the off cuts for smaller parts.... Anybody know if there would be any problems with wrapping over primer/filler (all smooth of course)? I don’t want to pay for a re-spray just to wrap it!!!

What makes you say that?

With last year’s TT to NA Diff change nearly complete, I’m going to focus on the body this year. It’s looking a bit shabby and I want a smooth boot and to sort out a dent. Once I’m finished with welding, grinding, filling and sanding I’m going to wrap the whole car. The Vinyl is sold by the metre from the roll and is about 1500cm wide. Question is, how much should I buy to cover the car? Any ideas?

Subframe and diff are painted. The suspension arms are all from driftworks. Can't remember the cost, take a look at the z1 motorsport site.

I've fitted Z1 solid bushes to the frame and diff. Fit perfectly. Removal of the subframe bushes is a PITA. They are like onions with many layers that all need to be removed. The rear diff bushes should not be fitted fully. Get those started and when you fit the diff, the tightening of the nuts will pull the bush to the right position. Hopefully that makes some sence. Check out my garage pics.

Slipping/loose/dirty drive belt is the first thin I'd look for.

There we go, Just need a couple of dimensions and then I can create an engineering drawing. I'll post it up here and then you can all have it to take to people who can make them.... Good plan or not?

Yes? you called?

Or these: http://prototyping.arrkeurope.com/Stereolithography_(SLA).aspx

Back in 2009 it was around £800 but that was for the seat mounts to and to collect and deliver. They did the lot as I wanted it to be done properly and approved for motorsport. After all, if you're fitting something that may save your life, it's not worth trying to cut corners. I think it was a good price really. Top notch job, beautiful welding, no complaints what so ever. Would use again.....

Ok, so that's a reasonable budget :thumbup: Should be able to go racing for that. I would surget you look into motorclub racing and go from there (BRDC, 750MC, etc)

It is good, it's mine!!

With out costing a packet, time trials is probably the best you'll do. Racing requires a good budget and time and as a dad with a 1 and 3 year old that's something i haven't got myself. Good luck with the sale :wink:

There's several ways of making this depending on your budget and quantity. If is a one off, I'd make it using water clear SLA and paint the lenses. Not too sure how shiny you could get it. Blow moulding is another option if you'd like a few more. I'd talk to some rapid prototyping companies. AARK is one that I've used in the past. Sent from my HTC Desire C using Tapatalk

Hi Ben and Welcome to the club!

rear end was in lots of pieces so i did not know if i was missing anything. It was the Wheel Bearings that I replaced. If yours in in once piece, then your seals will be fitted between the knuckle and the bearing housing so you won't have a problem.

Well, before the kids came along i spent my time turning this: Into this:

Yes, will be very interesting to see. Should the Brighton Speed Trials be on in 2014, i'll be there trying to beat my 13.52 from 2011. I hear it should be a second quicker so should put me up there with the Audi R8s.

Just got to putting the diff on and stripped a thread so that's been a pain. you can see from the picture below that there are no studs in the back of the diff housing. As for pit falls, I guess it depends on how indepth you are going and how complete the NA kit of parts is. I've changed/cleaned/painted everthing I can. Cost is the main issue. I had one poor bearing so decided to replace them both, these cost £135 each. The grease seal between the knuckle needs to be shipped from Japan as I did not get any. Removing the subframe bushes is as bad a job as everybody says. Found a dremel with bendy neck worked well. Only thing I would have liked to do is service the diff which i haven't been able to do but is on my list. oh, and take photos of the Drums as its a lot quicket the look back at than working it out from scratch. I'll put more picks up if i remember to ever take some.....:thumbup:

Just completing mine, would have been good to have a list...

Ideal but where can you buy them in the UK? I bet their are very expensive - be cheaper maybe to get another diff????

make me feel sick just watching it...

Thanks Jeff. I did clean the threads up with a tap and got quite a lot of swarf on the tool and then that combined with cheap bolts was probably heading for disaster..... Best repair before I connect the prop and shafts up I guess.

I've been doing a NA diff conversion over the summer. The diff came without the 2 studs in the rear of the housing. So I got 2 M14x2.0 35mm bolts. I've fitted solid diff mounts but as I tightened one of the bolts up to 100Nm, it stripped. The other one is fine. Has this happened to any one before and if so is it possible to use a threaded insert to repair the thread? Chris :oops:

Bump, before they go to the tip.....