zed-racer

Camber is set to 0 but the picture does look positive. Good spot Baz, I'll have a look at that.....

New front bumper I've been spending weeks working on...

Ok, so I'm far from done. I'll just re-mortgage the house and I'll be sorted! But in the interest of staying married, I'll stick to taking bits off the car for now!

I don't stand a chance.......rubbish!:mad2:

Where am I going wrong, mine now weighs 1422KG and I've nothing left to remove! It's noisy, uncomfortable and has no creature comforts!

Yeah, i did the same. Blow torch and pullers - it's the only way.

My Jap import TT has a NA bumper, I just cut some new ones for the intercooler. Looks a bit rubbish to be fair.......

:angel:Care to share how? Any piccies?

beans on toast.......a classic.

I think I'll measure the temperature rise across the intercooler to understand just how much of a problem this is. Like I’ve said, the car runs fine with the current setup and I now may just leave it as it is until I need to run a Doolz setup. Thanks all!

Additionally, mines a manual and I’ve changed the gearbox mount too. Rattles at just under 2000rpm. It will be a trip to see Jeff and Jamie for a Gearbox swap one day when I can afford to have a NA sub frame and new prop as well, oh and a lightened flywheel.

I'm gona live with mine untill the box blows up.......

Go for the racing look!

If it is, then i have the same problem. i have replaced the clutch, propshaft and diff and it makes no difference - it has to be the gearbox input bearing. You need to replace this or fit a better gearbox........

Yes, I was thinking of that too, this would also blow more cold air in to my radiator:thumbup:

No, the backlash, is it at the same revs in 3rd or 4th?

does this happen at the same revs in most gears?

I was under the impresion that the standard Doolz keeps the filters behind the FMIC and you then need to buy an extention kit to extend the pipes to the SMIC position. This also requires a new ECU chip and all costs a heck of alot more then my £88 idea.

I intend to keep the stock 'T' piece so I only need a 90 degree bend to point me out to where I want to be. The silicone pipe will be more or less straight – going under the left head light - and has a wire on the inside to resist cavitation due to the vacuum created. Then it’s a tidy flick down 45 deg for the MAF and Filter. I appreciate the work that has gone into the Doolz setup but I don’t need to run 2 filters (370BHP) and they are in the area behind the FMIC so also would not benefit from colder air.

Ok, how about this; Out of the 'T' pipe - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270727154909&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1932wt_907 90 degree bend Connects to - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290366971221&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1522wt_907 length of hose and goes under the front left head light and comes out to a - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280651012361&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1932wt_907 45 degree with a 3" of off cut hose to join onto the MAF with filter connected. All done for £88 ish. Just need some hose clips and to relocate/lengthen my MAF connector. Anyone see any issue with this plan?

Like i said, it works fine, I'm just fussy and want to move it but not sure how best to do this.......

Yes, colder the better!

Well, it works fine, it's just that I know that I'm sucking warm air in and that's not ideal. The whole point of the intercooler is to cool the boost down so it has greater density. This setup starts off with warm air so won't be as good as it could be.

Thanks, this is along the right lines but I'm hoping for a cheaper solution. Maybe i'll just make one from parts off ebay.....

Thanks, she is the fastest Zed there.......