MasterCookieman

Rear number / licence plate light housing - whole unit. Needs to be in good condition. Looks like this -

Thanks, so do I! I hope that days comes sooner than later!! :)

Thanks...ehh, didn't realise they were so hated! :blink:

So Galviniser, do you know what you did in the end that stopped the surging?

Hi, So I have one of these to fit - Can anyone recommend what I should use to attach it to the rear bumper? I was thinking Tiger seal? Cheers!

The idle air control valve. Actually I think the correct abreviation is IAC. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Can't watch the video, as at work and youtube is blocked, but have you checked the obvious - MAF and IAV etc?

I've been to this site, but can't remember reading that, but I've read a lot. It's very interesting, thanks! I'm mixing the clear coat enough, so this might suggest that despite months, it may not be fully dry....maybe, and direct sunlight is causing it to dry rapidly. The areas that go first are absolutely those that are in the direct sunlight, the rear part of the roof was the first to go originally, then the left wing, which again, was in full view of the sun all day. I've rubbed down the doors and bonnet today. the bonnet was a nightmare, sprayed a guide coat and it was all over the place. I also rubbed the clear off the tailgate. As I'm very confident its the clear that's the problem, I'm going to paint the whole car without, as suggested. I'll then take it from there. At least I feel like I have a plan now...rather than just despair!

Compressor that was meant to say. Lol Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I wipe down with pre paint and use a tack cloth. The first time I did it in a gazebo. I'm using a water filter, and I make sure I drain the ck press or after each session. So I don't think it's contamination. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Thanks. That makes sense. Just without the clear coat it doesn't take much to mark the paint, but my options are limited. Option 4 is that of a desperate man on the edge. I can finish other things elsewhere, paint a bumper in my garden etc, but the main painting must happen now. Like I said, it's sole destroying seeing all those hours of prep and painting go out the window, worse of it is I still don't understand why - so I can't fix the problem. Apparently you can spray 2k clear over celly without issues...so that is also an option. Just don't want to poison the street (or me!), who I think are already tired of 4 year project.

It can be done, I too looked at it. In the main you're looking for a TT engine, plus turbos / intercoolers and exhaust system, obviously the ECU too. You can keep your NA diff as the ratios give faster acceleration I believe, but less top end. If you haven't already you'll need to replace your brakes with TT calipers and discs. Edit - I think the gearbox is fine (for manual anyway) when I checked. I'm sure there will be others along shortly who know more detail.

Ok, you may remember I painted my Zed in a gazebo using cellulose about a year ago, despite all the warnings (yeah ok, maybe I should have used 2K...) - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182675-Base-coat-no-need-for-cutting-compound I screwed up the first time by not mixing the paint properly, but this year I did a refresher coat (after properly mixing the paint) and then several clear coats. Using G3 and a polisher my results were very pleasing (a little orange peel on the bonnet but acceptable) and I was happy, all the hard work, time and money was worth it - Then after a few months when finally summer came this happened - After some research my theory was that I'd applied the clear coats to quickly, and perhaps too thickly when it was too cold for the solvent to evaporate fully. So, it got warmer, sun hits the paint and the remaining solvent wants out, then the clear coat cracks... However, it's almost like the clear coat is shrinking and causing itself to split and crack. The second time I painted I made sure I gave amble drying time and applied thinner coats, but sadly no difference. I've been battling the reaction for months now at weekends, rubbing down the clear coat back to base, repainting...however today I noticed my re-painted tailgate of about 3 weeks ago has started reacting again. It's truly sole destroying, and the finish I'm getting isn't as good as I had first time around. The reaction only seems to happen to the clear coat, and then this affects the base a little, but rubbing off the clear coat (which takes some doing!) gets rid of the worse part of the reaction. Catching it early seems to be the key, before it has time to affect the base. My Zed currently looks like this (bumper fitted today, and will likely react once the sun hits it) - The front wings are not clear coated - and so far have not had any reaction. The doors and bonnet are covered in several thick coats of high build primer ready for rubbing down.... The problem is, it's been 4 years rebuilding my Zed, and this is destroying my motivation. The big problem is my Zed isn't on my drive, and I need to move her in a couple months time, so time is running out. I have nowhere else to paint, so once I lose the drive that's it. My options - 1 - Strip back to bare metal. (Not really realistic given the timescales, plus I don't think I have it in me anymore. :( ) 2 - Don't use clear coat, even though it protects the paint and looks nice and glossy. 3 - Apply bar coat. I'm really considering this, seems like the logical option, but haven't spent enough time researching it, but it seems expensive - £30 for 1 ltr. 4 - Stick my Zed on ebay as a failed project. Not something I want to do, given that it's been 4 years of my life. I spent a lot on parts etc and I'm not a quitter, but sometimes maybe you just have to cut your losses. :( Thing is, bar coat is to stop the reaction from previous paint...so theoretically it shouldn't make any difference as I don't think that's the problem. I've been buying all the paint supplies from the same place, so surely it should all be compatible. Stripping back to bare metal also won't solve the problem, if it's something to do with the clear coat. I think I may contact the supplier I've been using, just to check it is compatible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I'm at a bit of a loss. Time (and my motivation) is running out.

Cheers, that's a good price, I'll give him a shot. :)

Hi, Can anyone tell me where the cheapest place to get front bumper brackets is - https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-bumper/nissan/oem-front-bumper-retainer-bracket-side-p-3602.html Prices in the US work out about £20 each plus postage. I suppose I'm also asking if really; do I even need these? Until today I was going to fit the aftermarket bumper just using big washers to support the top screw holes - maybe not a great idea. It looks like the OEM bumper only had a bracket on one side, and there wasn't much of that left (but enough to use as a stencil to fabricate a top section for the other side - which is an alternative, and probably better option). I haven't tried MJP yet. Thanks

I realise this isn't a simple question, but can anyone provide an estimate of how much I might get for my Zed in it's current condition - All of the paint has had a reaction (a delayed reaction by months!) and now looks terrible. I thought the tailgate and bonnet had escaped the reaction, but they haven't... All that work for nothing. It means repainting the whole car, and what's to say it wont happen again. I'd have to rub down almost back to bare metal. Just when I could see light at the end of tunnel and might get to actually drive my Zed. It's really pi**ed me off, and after 3 years, I've think I've just had enough. I have other things I need to spent time and money on. Anyway, the body totally rust free! Sills fine, corner sills solid, a perfect chassis infact. Engine runs, but doesn't like it when the MAF is connected. I bought another MAF, same thing... Sorting this was meant to be my next job before any MOT. The engine, as far as I know, has only done 67000 miles and used to run fine as my daily driver. The ABS light is on, another job I had after the running problem. I've rebuilt the car using all good parts. I was obviously putting her back together to drive and keep for a long lone time. Things replaced - New clutch plate, thrust bearing and master cylinder. New discs and pads all round, using TT calipers. Good OEM exhaust system with Japspeed downpipes Diff, gearbox and engine oil changed. New rear drop links. Engine mounts replaced with good used ones. Sump replaced (leak free). Good used TT radiator installed. Headlights dismantled and reconditioned. Fog lights reconditioned. Brake shoes removed, cleaned up replaced, handbrake adjusted. Targa roof panels dismantled, reconditioned and reassembled. Rear bearings / hubs replaced good ones. Air horns added. I have a full blue velour interior to be installed (needs adapting to door seat belts). I also have front and rear leather seats (no door cards). Spares - Brake master cylinder (NA) Rear ABS pump unit ABS sensors. Fuse boxes Tailgate Dashboard. Old shocks with springs (seen better days) Plus other bits and pieces I have 4 brand new 18" wheels, never used still in box, which I'd likely sell separately. Need tyres. A new battery will be required. So what do you think, if I stuck the whole lot on ebay? Other than the ruined paint job, it's nearly a perfectly good N/A. Wouldn't take much to finish. The other option is that I ignore the paint, continue to fix her up, get an MOT, then worry about the paint. I just don't know if I have the motivation to do it anymore... :(

So, I know we're tired of this thread, at least I am! This is how the wiring goes should this happen to anyone in the future - Annoyingly, the wires all match!! (Minus the heated mirror wired obviously) I finally realised that one pin on the smaller plug was slightly offset and not connecting (I should have noticed this before!!), so really, the only wire I needed to re-wire was the one wire - Now, the two wires to right are for the folding motor, and these are the voltage readings going to the the motors - Thing is, neither fold. I have to conclude that there is something up with the motors that do the folding, as they won't work. I ever temporarily wired the wires for folding into to the mirror adjust motors, just to see what would happen, and as expected the mirror moved back and forth when I toggled the rocker switch for folding. So everything suggests the mirror folding motors are somehow both dead, or not getting power at their end (as I can't open the mirrors I can't test that side). I will look at replacement mirrors in the future...can't / won't deal with it now. I have a reacting paint job to worry about. Thanks everyone for your help with this, it's finally over, sort of. :)

Thanks Andrew G, your post made me realise there's little point in opening up my mirrors - there isn't anything in there that's likely to be the problem. I thought about what you said, about wiring both positive and earth, and I thought no I actually haven't done that, but everything was positive 12v (depending on the hat switch etc...), I had no earth, that's what I thought the problem was. Then it 'clicked'! I'd like to say it was at this point I designed the flux capacitor, which is what makes time-travel possible, but no... I had accidentally wired my passenger seat motor up backwards just the other day, so the the controls on the seat were reversed - and that's what makes the wing mirror motors work - swapping from positive the negative voltage. I wired myself up a 12v and a negative. Sure enough, swapping the positive and negative would reverse the motor. So now I just need to play with the wires, work out what goes where, I looks like the blue wire is the 'common' if that the best thing to call it. The thing is with the folding option. I couldn't get the mirror to unfold, no motor noises, nothing, I tried applying 12v (or -12v) and one way it didn't seem to like it (on either mirror), it sparked a little, like it wasn't right. On checking the connector pins for the folding (car side) with a multi-meter; it switches from -12v to +12v when switching the rocker, 0v is the middle. So I think everything checks out as I see it. For some reason, I think if I wire the mirrors up, they will fold / unfold - despite not doing anything when I applied power 'manually'. If they don't a fuse will blow - hopefully, I don't need things melting. So things are progressing slowly. Couldn't do it without everyone's help. I'll keep you updated on how thing work out, tomorrow, hopefully.

I didn't have very much time today, but did check the colours from the link you posted. "Orange connects to Green/Black Blue to Blue/Orange Yellow to Blue/Black Purple to Blue Pink to Green/Red Black to Yellow/Blue Black to Blue/White" All my colours matched exactly. I removed the drivers wing mirror and tried to take it apart, but no luck, I've tried using my dremel on the screw, and I was going to use a oscillating tool, but even the smallest blade is going to ruin the mirror casing. I do want to get into the mirror. Really, everything I've done, and all the advice I've been given (thanks all :) )suggests the mirrors should be working, or at least doing something!! The quest continues.

Well - anythings possible at this point!! :)

Thanks for these, I've printed them and will go through them, see if I can work anything out. Didn't get around to the mirrors today, painted my bumper and wired my passenger seat electrics instead. :)

Cheers, The independent 12v I tested bypassed all the fuses, plus I was getting power to the connector that connects to the wing mirror, so I knew it couldn't be a fuse. The problem has to be inside the mirror. I just can't believe both are affected. I'm assuming there's an earth that connects to the mirror chassis inside, which in turn earths the mirrors once bolted to the door? There isn't a negative at the connector.

Whilst I rebuild my Zed I drive a 320 CLK, and have looked at CL500s. I hear that the ABC suspension system is a nightmare and crazy expensive if goes wrong. At the moment in my CLK the CANBUS thinks I have a brake light out and decides to use my tail light as a substitute brake light...apart from I don't - the bulb is fine. From research the rear CANBUS controller (part of the rear fusebox I think) is the issue. Thing is, older cars, especially 'fancier' cars, with all the bells and whistles are a nightmare maintain and fix without a good club backing them. Let's face it, people with Mercs likely didn't get their hands dirty... I actually watched a video on Youtube showing Merc CLK drivers how to change their oil themselves!! I thought 'really!!' Don't get me wrong, I love my Merc, but fixing it myself without any real help from a club is almost impossible....so just something to consider.

I know when I bought mine, they were selling them weekly via bidding on ebay for very little....as if selling them off maybe. I think I got mine for about £80, which I don't think is bad. Saying that, when I get my Zed running properly, I might find that they knock. I don't expect them to though...I don't need yet another problem!!

Hmm, mine went on fine, though are very close to the floor on the bend up the manifold / headers. I had (maybe still have) dodgy running, and could hear the pipe hitting the floor / bottom firewall. All was fine on normal running.