MasterCookieman

Love Nightwish, seen them live twice...couldnt afford to go to Wembley though.... :(

Thanks all, It's the bit that states "cutting and reshapping may be required" - it just makes me think this clause could be used to send you any oddly shaped bumper!

Hey, has anyone bought one of these and fitted? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300ZX-Terminator-Style-Body-Kit-Front-Bumper-/251324646044?fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item3a841dc29c:m:mn_W46JE0OPe3rcWbkPy1aQ I'm just wondering how much work is required to make it fit. Cheers :)

Someone probabaly already posted these, but if not, well you need to see these - http://www.nighttimerunningplates.com/#intro

It's controlling everything at once - the movment speed across the panel, keeping roughly the same distance away from the body, trying to overlap enough so the paint merges, whilst a the same time applying the right amount of pressure to the trigger so you spray the right amount of paint! Sadly it's not flip paint, though I wish it was. I did at one point look at some colour changing flakes which you add to the clear coat, but I think that's pushing it given that I'm having trouble spaying metallic properly, so maybe in the future when I'm more experienced. :)

Thanks! I improved quite a bit in the short time spraying the base coat. I have decided I do need to do the clear coat, I'll just have to be very careful! After watching a few youtube videos I think it will make a big difference to the finish, of course on the videos they make it look so easy and never have any issues. I went over to check on my Zed after work today, as the wind took a disliking to my gazebo...anyway, the paint does actually look good, though it now has a few scratched from the gazebo collapsing.

Cheers, I will, probabaly tomorrow. Though you do have me slightly worried that I've screwed up big style, lol. I've watched plenty of videos on how to paint, it's different when you're actually doing it though, and so easy to put too much paint down. I know I wish I hadn't gone with metallic as making sure it all merges together is tricky!

Ok, long story short, as I got closer to the bottom of the tin of paint, I realise there was a lot of metallic sludge - basically metalic flakes in the bottom. I had mixed the paint, clearly not well enough. So I suddenly had about 2 litres of paint with enough flakes for 5 litres....I give the car it's final spray, of course a far more metallic one this time. Anyway, I've been left with the following finish, and due to run issues I've had (still having) I'm wondering if I really want to take the risk of applying clear coat. Can I rub the base coat down with 1200 - 1500 and then polish with G7, or do I HAVE to apply to clear coat to get the mirrow (ish) finish? I've read somewhere that you can't rub down a single metallic base coat.

Oh, I'm using a good super flow thinners. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I have, or had, 5 litres, but that mixed 50/50 with thinners, gives 10. Unless you mean pre mix? I am slightly concerned that I've used half the paint already and still have bumpers to do, which I plan to do next year...probably an aftermarket front bumper, don't know about the rear yet. I have 5 litres of clear coat, but only plan to apply this to the outside of the car, again 50/50 mix. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hey,so pics of how its going....which isn't terrible, but perhaps October ins't the time to paint a car outside... It's going ok, there are some marks and a run I want to take care of before further coats and then clear. Genrally I'm happy, despite rubbing down with 800, then 1000, I think I should have re-primed the whole car, then rubbed down again, as some score marks are showing through the paint...I couldn't see these before the base coat, I thought everything was perfect. The battle continues tomorrow.

Annoying isn't it! I think I'm going to try and get behind the handle, see if I can do anything, so may very well get back to you. Cheers :)

Annoying isn't it! I think I'm going to try and get behind the handle, see if I can do anything, so may very well get back to you. Cheers :)

Oh, didn't realise it was a common problem. Wierd thing is, the original paint was free from scratches, it's only since I've painted them. I tried taking them apart but it looked like I was going to break the plastic parts. Even if I got them apart and reassembled, I don't think they'd last long. I'm thinking maybe get a nail file dow the back...

So, I've been painting lot of parts, and its been going well. Thing is I've painted the door handles twice now, and I'm going to need to do them again! When I operate the handle, it scratches the body of the handle, as can be seen in the pic - This happens with both handles. The first time there was a lot of debris from sanding etc stuck behind the handle. However I cleared this out and repainted, but same thing has happend albeit not as bad. It's crazy we're only taking a few microns of paint!! So, what I want to do is take the handle out of the body and grind some metal from the back, ans generally smooth it out. Thing is it doesn't look like it comes apart, the bar accross the back is flared slightly, holding the thing togehter. So, has anyone succesfully taken the handle out of the body, and reassembled, and can you tell me how to do it? Cheers.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the responses. I've been rubbing down all wrong, next weekend is going to be a busy one. I'm going to have to continue with the cellulose I'm affraid. I'm littlerally ready to go with it (other than more rubbing down with finer grit), I just need the time off work which is October. Fingers crossed the weather stays in double figures. I guess 2k could be an option down the road, maybe with a TT who knows. I'll update you all after October, hopfully with succesful pics of my resprayed Zed (bumpers next year).

Oh, looks like I'm going to have to get some lacquer based on what your're all saying. I always knew I should, I just convince myself I was ok without. I've only been rubbing down with 600 grit, so glad I can go finer. One but of the reasons I didn't go with 2K as I'm working in a gazebo, and I'd read that the stuff is nasty. I'm pretty sure I'm already annoying the neighbours, I think toxic paint may push them over the edge. :)

Cheers, I think I'm going to have to do this with the tailgate, as I think I still have some low spots (where the spoiler used to bolt on). I really thought I'd finished with tailgate, it's been an ordeal. It looks fine in primer, but I just know the base coat is going to highlight issues.

Thanks, I am using high build filler primer, but you're saying use 1200 - 1500 grit on the primer? I read somewhere that going above 800 means the base coat wont have a good key.

Ok, I'm painting my car with cellulose paint next month, in a gazebo - everything as usual on a strict budget... My Zed is primed and rubbed down, and ready for the base coat. I've been praticing on other parts - nose panel, targa stips, door handles etc. I'm getting the hang of spraying, finding it annoying how every little imperfection shows up with the base coat - why can I still see score marks from sanding, even after rubbing down the primer with 600 grit?! I don't plan to use clear coat, due to the extra cost, and the added risk of screwing up at the end. It should also be easier to respray anything I'm unhappy with at the end. The paint I'm using is this, which dries glossy - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1L-Mystery-Purple-Cellulose-Metallic-Gloss-Car-Paint-Custom-Colour-Celly-/330405867444?hash=item4cedb96fb4 Now, I understand, from all my research, that I'm meant to rub down my finished paint with 1200 / 1400 grit, then use a cutting compund / paste to eliminate the scratches, polishing to a glossy finish. I've tried this on the targa end strips and it just leaves dull finish, the other freshly painted untouched targa strip looks way better. So why do I need to use a cutting compund, it looks fine the way it is. Can't I just seal the fresh paint with wax? If I has orange peel I could understand, but it's already a smooth finish. Any advice would be great.

So I take it that you managed to get it out of the boot ok? :)

I renovated my headlights, along with all other parts in my rebuild. They really were a rusty mess, though they looked totally fine when they were attached to the car. As for the adjusters I had several snapped cogs, some just seized with rust. Fortunately I was able to get some parts from a member of the club, I know others have used gear cogs from Tamco scale models. Either way I think you need to get the offending headlight out, or even both, and check them out, as something is obviously wrong. You could replace them, but like phutumsch said, they'll likely need TLC too.

When my Zed was on the road (in 2011) I was with Adrian Flux, turned out to be the cheapest at the time, I think I was paying around £650. I remember having a rant on the forum about a year ago, when I happened to do a comparison quote, and it was £700 plus, I had expected it to reduce, as it had been 3 years, and I moved closer to 40. :) I currently insure my 3.2 V6 Merc CLK for under £500... If I ever get my Zed back on the road (planned for next year) I'm told classic car insurance is the way to go, so I'll be doing that.

Hey, I'm looking for about 10 of these in good usable condition - Can also be seen here - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=5366 (Thanks again veilside01702) These hold the moulding, or trim, that runs across the targa panels where the glass meets the metal. Already tried MJP, who could supply, but never came back to me. My next stop is Nissan, but figured it was worth asking here before going to the dealer. Cheers!

I don't see many Zeds in Newcastle...but found myself following this one, I was in my silver Merc.