MasterCookieman

Check for rot under the carpet, at the front in the ECU area, in the corner, look into the sills in the same area with a torch. You really need to get under the car and poke the sill area with a screw driver, especially the rear where the targa drain is. The way I look at (now anyway), is you can fix pretty much everything else if it goes wrong, but if the chassis is rotten, then it can easily be a showstopper.

I think this belongs here. You can follow the Nissan ZEOD througout Le Mans 24H on Nismo TV on YouTube - http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=159&i=30089 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaTxfj0BzL-MaCy-YUqPRoQ I'll be checking it out.

Well, took your advice and dropped the whole sub frame off at a garage. Cost £25, but everything is now in parts, so I can finally begin the rebuild! So, as I'm on the subject, can anyone tell me if I have the rear, upper sub frame mount the correct way around - It just looks wrong, or like something is missing...but the front lower one goes on this way up.

Hmm, I'll see what I can find. I had it on the car, but thinking about trying it in a vice tomorrow.

Hey, I've used release lube, heat, and a breaker bar (which was starting to bend), but it doesn't want to budge - I figured I can't be the only one who had trouble with this, so anyone have any suggestions?

No worries, I'm a fan of DYI myself! lol I have plenty of it to do as well, at the moment the Z is kinda taking priority, as my flat decentegrates... I only actually need one, but spares will always be usefull, if you're happy to part with them. The bulb seal is real help too! PM on the way. Cheers!

Hey, did you find any plastic ones, and maybe a small rubber seal? :)

Thanks for looking anyway. :) Don't worry, everything I'm refitting is getting drenched in paint and copper greased, where appropriate. When I finish building her, she'll never ever rust, ever!! lol

Thanks for the responses! The guide will be really useful, though it still isn't what I saw originall, I think it was in the 'What did you do today' thread, but anyway... I had a look at the other headlight, and the gears in that one are fine, so I have only one broken one, (Medallion Man, if you do have a spare, and a rubber, that would be great! Please let me know) The front rubber seal clamp on my left light (off side) was rotten, and can't be reused, the front clamp on the right light is usable, but not great. I was considering making a new one, but if anyone has a good non-rotten left clamp, or even both, please let me know. :) I've ordered some strip sealant from Ebay, so looks like I'm doing the whole renovation! Cheers!

I remember, maybe a couple months ago, someone was renovating their headlights. I'm in the middle of doing a similar thing. Is anyone able to tell me where I can get replacement gears - I know this isn't the right sections, but if anyone has one of the smaller round rubber bulb seals, please message me. I saw all four on Ebay for £10, but I'm only missing one. Thanks! :)

I paid £250 for my LWB from a local breakers, that was with no engine, gearbox, ECU, radiator, exhaust system, wheels, bonnet, bumpers, front or rear lights, or indicators. It came with front and rear subframe, diff, suspension, brakes, interior (though shabby), seats, carpets, and even a rear strut brace. Also some interesting sun glasses I use to this day. More imporatantly, it was free from rot! Excellent deal I thought. Pics can be seen, if you follow the top link below.

Well, that was my initial thought, as I encountered the 26mm NA caliper problem many years back when I changed the discs, and hense why I converted to 30mm TT calipers. But the calipers which I've used in the rebuild, are 30mm, and are from the transplant TT shell, so everything is TT. I even looked at the 'brake depot' site when I bought the discs originally, to see if anything different was listed pre 92, but apparently they're all the same. I just don't get it. So I figured a 5mm spacer, or even a 3mm spacer, would push the disc forward enough to clear the caliper -

Weird thing, but I have two sets of front discs, old and new- The new ones were used for about a year on my NA (with TT brake conversion), but the hub on my transplant car isn't as deep, if you know what I mean, as the disc rubs against the inside of caliper, the the wheel jams against the caliper once bolted up. The disc depths are different sizes - 24mm 29mm I guess they changed the hub dimensions between 1990 and 1992. So, I plan to put a 5mm spacer between the hub and the disc, does this sound ok, or a bad idea?

Cheers, time for a new fan then... Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I was going to start a new thread, but it's related, and a quick questions so... I went to reinstall the TT condenser fan, but noticed it doesn't like to spin freely, whilst my NA one does. Can anyone tell me if the TT fan should turn freely? I have a feeling mine is broken. Cheers!

I always understood this was a thrust bearing problem, not with Zeds specifically, but in general. The first time I heard it was on a Citroen AX, turned out to be the thrust bearing.

It seems I need to switch back to my TT fan, annoying, as I sheared one bold and couldn't get the other back in...hope it stays together, lol Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Thanks, I had a feeling it was a speed thing. I'm using the whole TT AC system...so I'm guessing I need to change the fan? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Ok, so, I put the AC fan from my 92 NA into my 90 TT shell. The NA fan looks better, plus I sheered a bolt on the TT one...hense why I'm using the NA fan, rather than the TT one. Anyway, went to connect it today, and it has a different plug / socket, with two wires, whilst the TT one has three - NA Fan - TT Fan - I'm tempted to snip the plugs, and wire it, just ignore the green wire, but does anyone know why there is a third green wire for the TT fan? Cheers.

Received mine today, havent (can't) used them, but they appear to be of good quality. A fiver for two, including delivery - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160744737403?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Thought it was worth flagging up.

If you have the Ebay app (assuming it's Ebay you're using) you receive an instant alert on your phone, so it's very possible the other bidder has just bid a higher amount, though probabaly not if it was seconds....possible though.

I guess if I was really bothered I could try and trace the plug back in my NA, and somehow salvage it, but it's probably part of the interior harnass. No worries, as long as I know it doesn't matter if it's not connected! Cheers! :D

Anyone? I jus't don't want to put the dash back togther and then find out I should I connected it to something.

From what I've managed to learn, this wire is connected to a contact inside the barrel, which sounds a bong; if the door is open, with a key in the ignition - The barrel is from my 92 NA, now installed in my 1990 TT shell. There is nowhere to connect it in the earlier shell, so I'm guessing I'm going to be 'bong-less', I'm just going to leave it disconnected...no choice really, lol. Can anyone confirm that I have this right? Cheers!

Just my luck...oh well. Thanks for the offer, if something goes wrong I'll be in contact! :) Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk