MasterCookieman

I cleaned mine during the rebuild....but THAT is clean!!!

Ahhhaa! for the positive cable, I'm looking for this aren't I - Right? It has to be in one of the many boxes!

I think I may have accidentally connected the negative to the chassis where the gearbox bolts at the back, I thought the wire felt out of place at the time; when I did this. I suppose there has to be a large positive cable from the battery, but I have no memory of it, and nothing lying around that looks familiar - time to look through some boxes! Cheers! As for the red - there's a sort of red theme going on under the car, so it makes sense when under there. I was only meant to paint the starter motor shield....but got carried away! :D

So, put more of my Zed back together today, I reattached my starter motor, and connected the plug cable, but can't remember what to attach here - I guess it has to be an earth? Assuming it is, I think what I might have done is bolt the bracket to the gearbox, where the earth is meant to bolt to. Anyone know?

Today's gap, after the alignment tool. After about 3 hours, it was finally done! I'm having a well deserved drink. I think using the alignment tool helped, but it still wasn't easy. The gap was about 1cm, which we manged to close with the bolts. If I ever pull the engine again, I'll pull the gearbox at the same time! Cheers for all the advice everyone!!! :)

Although, if the spline at the rear of the gearbox is turning when the engine is turned, that would mean that the shaft is through the clutch and into the flywheel, right? So it can't be misaligned? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone, glad I'm not the only one! I have a few things to try. I do hope the clutch isn't misaligned, I only used a rod, and my eyes . The gearbox currently sits on two jacks, which I'd been raising / lowering accordingly. Let's see what today brings... Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

The spigot bearing was fine when I took it off...but it did take some getting off! The triangle bolt idea is plan for tomorrow. I'm hoping to get the very top bolts in, and two bottoms (more of a square than a triangle ^_^), then slowly tighten them all, forcing it closed. I'm just worried about damaging something, or stripping threads, doing it this way.

When I took my gearbox off last year it was nightmare, it didn't want to separate from the engine...finally got it off after a couple hours! Anyway, went to refit it today, guess what, it's a nightmare to refit! The bell-housing is about 1 - 2 cm away from engine, I've managed to get a couple bolts in on the bottom, just a few threads to hold it. I can just see the edge of flywheel, but I just can't close the gap! I've been on all day jacking up different parts, getting it aligned, pushing and pulling on the engine, wiggling the gearbox like mad, but it nothing! I'm actually pretty exhausted! It's not stuck on anything, as far as I can tell, and the shaft was nicely greased up, so should be sliding in easily... Turing the engine, by hand, is moving the spline at the rear of the gearbox, where the prop shaft connects, so the shaft at the front is in. It got dark and cold, but my only thought is that perhaps the starter (which is still attached) is stopping it all sliding together closed. Removing the starter is my plan for tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem? Any help would be gratefully appreciated!

Zcentre has them - http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=329&category_id=87&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

Cheers, great help! :) There will be a little filling, when the rear spoiler was, and I plan to remove the ariel. I'll double check with them how much they've thinned it, but 6 litres it is then!

When you say the BMW took 5 litres, was than thinned, or pre thinned? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

It's a standard car, two of the bumpers are silver, as is the bonnet, the rest is white. After some research , I planned to skip on the primer, and just rub down the white paint, use that as the ground coat. I may prime the bonnet and bumpers white, just for even tones. I expect that purple RFU paint is 1:1 ratios, as they do sell un-thinned paint and recommend 1:1. From what you're saying, I think 6 litres of that Viking Purple RFU, should do it, but I'd want to confirm how much it has been thinned. I just don't want to run out! Lol Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I realise this is from 2006! I'm hoping to paint my Z this year. I gather the above is talking about unmixed? So using celulose, this would be about 6-8 litres after thinned / mixed? I'm looking at this, with is ready for use (pre-thinned) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-LT-Viking-Purple-Pearl-Basecoat-Car-Paint-Solvent-RFU-READY-TO-USE-FREE-POST-/221344059533?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item338922508d

LOL I think I was the other bidder on this - blue shapphire bumper? I couldn't decide what to do in the end...whether I wanted the UK fogs or not. I still have plenty of time to dedide....

Cheers, though had a lot of practice with the stuff when I was younger...a lot younger... Heat makes all the difference, just warm everything with a hair dryer and push any bubbles out. Anyway, I bought this (pretty sure it's increased in price) - 1520mm x 500mm 3D Black carbon fibre Vinyl bubble Free Vinyl Car ... http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088D3BSY/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_cCR-sb095D4VP Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Applied carbon effect film to my wipers, pretty happy with the results -

I swapped my original odometer into my new clocks -

I bought shocks for the US, a few years ago, got charged about £60 in import tax when they arrived, so I'd look out for that!

You'll need to remove the plastic covers around the back of the boot to investigate, but it does sound like the catch isn't latching.

Opened my grease today...thought perhaps I'd put my gearbox back on if it wasn't too cold this weekend... However.... Does this look like Lithium EP grease?! NO! This topped off my perfectly crappy day! At least it came with Fizzers though. Sorry, rant over...

Ok, after some digging, I've discovered that I need to find the R10 resistor inside the clocks IC. I need to replace the Jap spec 33K ohm with a 20K, and then the clocks should read MPH, with 180MPH as the top speed (I hope!). I just need someone to confirm that this is the correct resistor (selecting 20K) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2W-5-Metal-Oxide-Film-Resistors-Variable-Values-Pack-of-2-5-or-10-/111085839086?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item19dd3b62ee I plan to do this now, but as I wont have a working car until next year (I HOPE!), I wont know if this has worked.

So, once converted, what will the top speed be? I've noticed that some dials go up to 160MPH and others 180MPH.

Cheers, I'll have a look tomorrow, but I'm beginning to think I don't have one!

Ok, whilst looking at new plasma / LED clocks, I just realised that my turbo shell has KPH clocks. My NA, has MPH clocks, but a different series, long story short, I want to use the KPH turbo clocks, with the turbo gauge removed. So I figured I would need a converter, but then figured there must be one on my NA, as it's already in MPH, but my question is where? I looked for a 'How to' guide to fitting a converter, I figured that would tell me where it's fitted, but sadly nothing. Cheers!