MasterCookieman

Vodkashots showed me this once - It's the ECU wiring colour codes - [ATTACH=CONFIG]70012[/ATTACH] Might help..

I can't help, haven't looked, but I've noticed that there's another filter just before the petrol tank, at the rear.

Shiny!!

If it helps you can see them in my pic -

I have an NA manual, although it's in bits waiting to be rebuilt into a new shell. I've never driven turbo or auto, so can't comment there. My NA was quick, hit 100mph without trying, and was great fun to drive. I miss it so... For me it came down to money, and a turbo would cost more to insure and apparently they drink petrol. There's also the extra complication of the turbo's (and the cost of repair), I read so many posts about smoking, which ok; could happen with NA and turbo's alike, but it's more likely with a turbo. I'm sure having two turbo's kick in and slam you into your seat feels great, but in terms of affordability and practicality (as I used my NA as my everyday car), I think the NA wins the battle, unless of course money is no object. When I'm rich, I will buy a turbo, but until that day, I'll settle with my NA, which is currently in bits.. :( If you do go down the NA route, I would do a manual conversion.

Erm, sorry, nope. I replaced the plugs, and listened to the injectors using the screwdriver trick (which isn't easy!), but sadly took the car off the road before I could solve it, as it was rotten. My next step was the coil packs... I have a new shell that I'm building, and I'll be using that engine, so I'll have to sort it out...someday. I have some spare coil packs, so once the engine is in and running, I plan to try different packs. I know some people have replaced the PTU, which if I'm honest I'm not sure what it does, maybe manages the cylinder firing (anyone help fill me in on this?), but I do know that early series one units were faulty and recalled. I don't know which one I have, but the way my luck goes, it will be a series one. Sorry I can't really help anymore with this.

Saw this today, just as I was leaving work - It's black, and has Faz on the plate, I don''t think it's the same car however.

Nope, my original Z, and the shell are in Seaton Burn, sadly not much to look at, at the moment...

My mam lives in Burradon / Camperdown, I'd just been there to collect diff oil and a tree, which I'd had delivered there. First time I've seen the black Zed, I go through the Killingworth / Burradon / Seaton Burn area a lot... on the way to my Project Z. I'll keep a look out, but being in a Galant, well, the guy will think I'm just an odd stalker.

I believe people recommend Paisley Freight. They seem to offer good prices - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Paisley-Freight-Services?_rdc=1

Tonight 02/07/13, about 20:50. It was coming across the Findus roundabout. Only caught a glimpse, haven't seen one in a while. I think they were late spec rear clusters. J spec. I was in my Galant, heading towards Four Lane Ends.

Sorry if someone already said this, I did read through but didn't notice anything. When replacing the clutch cylinder, don't bother connecting the pipe that goes off across the left wing, just make a brand new connection straight down, with either hard pipe, or a flexi pipe (see link below), directly to the slave cylinder, then bleeding is easy thanks to gravity! Simply top up the cylinder, then go underneath, drain some fluid off, until no air bubbles (if any at all), nip the nut, top up reservoir, job done. My clutch cylinder went too, it is a right pain to get out and in, but can be done. Don't expect to have any skin left on your knuckles. I'm sure I've seen one in the UK - http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-300zx-1-Piece-Stainless-SS-Clutch-Hose-Full-Length-ZSP1008.htm

Yes! An auto dimming welding mask! Makes life so much easier, although bulky when under the car.

There are quite a few videos on youtube - I know they helped me, but in the end it just came down to practice really. I was using fluxed wire, I ended up sticking with 0.8 in the end.

They are the same length, must just be the pic. As I'm not planning any side impacts I think I'll go with the non-webbed less corroded ones! :)

I stripped what I could from both subframes (plan to use the best parts), which took way longer than I thought it should! I noticed that these arms have webs, on the 92 model, yet non on the earlier model (G reg 90 or 91?). Which would you use in your rebuild?

Redwine's thread on the MIG welding forum helped me no end, if not just for a boost of motivation now and then...until I eventually gave up that is! lol http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465 From your pics I'd say it your Zed doesn't look too bad, and is totally repairable, but I really would check everywhere. Even when I thought I'd finally finished finding rot, I'd find more, hence why I gave up trying to repair it, there was baely any good steel left...plus a shell turned up locally. As for your question about using angled steel for the jacking point, I had the same idea when looking at my rear subframe mounts, but drilling holes and bolting it on, as well as welding. I never got to that stage though.

I would get the carpet up, you can check the sills pretty well; through the inner sill holes with a torch. Give the outer sills a poke with a screw driver. Also lift the passenger front carpet up, where the ECU is, mine was totally rotten there. I'd also pull out the tool trays either side in the boot and check down each corner. Mine was rotten pretty much everywhere, but those were the key areas. If you want to see where mine rusted then check my bottom link below, it might help with your investigation and help you gauge how bad yours is. Good luck with it! :)

Sorry, just saw this! LOL, I had red and gold Plastikote paint spare! The important thing is the zinc! It was meant to be Hammerite Underseal, but that never showed... I'm going to stick with a zinc grey and red theme going forward! :D

Thanks! I can count the bolts to see if there is a difference. I know the prop is different. If the hubs are different, then I guess I could cut off my rotten guards....shame though.

I painted my rear area, with zinc paint and Hammerite, as my Underseal never showed up.... I also rubbed down and painted my rear torsion bar, and refitted the fuel tank heat shield.

Well, please can anyone tell me if the driveshaft from a turbo will fit into an NA sub-frame assemble and Diff? They look the same, as far as I can tell.

This is how normal threads look -

Hi all, Ok, whilst stripping my rear sub-frame assembly today, with the plan to replace the rear disc guards; with the ones from the turbo sub-frame assembly, I noticed that one hub nut is way smaller than the rest, plus the treads on this one are much thicker, wider threads - I'm assuming this isn't normal? My thoughts perhaps that someone re-threaded it, or used a driveshaft from a different car... Will a turbo driveshaft fit an NA, so that I can replace this oddly threaded monstrosity? Also, will my rear turbo hubs / guards even fit on my NA, I do realise that the HICAS bush hole, on the hub arm, is smaller (and different) than the NA 'suspension / trailing arm' bush. I was hoping to enlarge the hole, or hopefully replace the HICAS hub bush with the NA bush. All I really want are the guards! (the NA ones are rotten).

Cheers all! I had a feeling this would be the case... Well at least I can stop wondering, I'll add to my list of jobs! :)