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MasterCookieman

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by MasterCookieman

  1. I've thought about you said, and it makes sense to replace both. Sorry, didn't mean to mess you around! I'll send £45 to marksaudiocorner@hotmail.co.uk shortly. Hopefully the engine will be back in this month!! :) Cheers!
  2. There's no way you'd seperate them and sell one? :)
  3. Hey, I tried to PM you but your inbox is full. I just wondered if you'd had a chance to check if you had any engine mounts laying around? :) Cheers!
  4. Great! Then all I need is a T connector! Cheers!
  5. Hey, went to measure my bore today and came across this, in the booster pipe connections - Do you think it's a non return valve?
  6. I don't have turbo pipes, so not totally sure what it looks like. Feel free to shoot me down, but how about getting a hoover (vacuum cleaner) in there and suck it out? I'm guessing you've already thought about this and it's not doable.
  7. Yeah, you're right. I think I'm just frustrated by how long everything is taking, the engine should have been in by now... Long term, and safety wise, it obviously makes sense. One way or the other I have to put a good one back on, it would be crazy not to.
  8. I'd appreciate that, anything that's better than what I have would be great!! :)
  9. Do you think this is repairable somehow - Maybe some kind of rubber adhesive? I mean is it really that bad anyway? If I hadn't pulled on it I would even have noticed! I know, I know, not replacing is when the engine it out would be crazy...but I'm spending way to much money at the moment, so could do without spending money on this.
  10. I've been following from the start, it's been interesting to watch. A really nice repair!
  11. Like Ianl said though, it also has other turbo type connections, and its and NA engine, so I'd end up causing myself more work plugging up all the other holes... Sorry, looks like I'm sticking with my NA bar, and finding a T and valve.
  12. I see, I thought that might be the case. Looks like a T and a non-return value it is then! Wish I'd remembered to measure the pipe diameter today...
  13. Thanks! Could I also replace my NA balance bar with a manual turbo one? I assume the extra 'take off' is the bit at the back of the bar -
  14. Found this thread - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171731-clutch-booster-pipe-work ...almost by accident really, but it appears to connect a vacuum canister, which I hope I still have, lol. I couldn't have sworn that it had one of those metal hex intake bolts on it... I remember someone telling me I didn't need to use the canisters, and I can install some kind of one-way valve and use the brake vacuum pipes. I think for now I'll stick with the original plumbing, I don't want to make too many alterations until I have everything up and running.
  15. Hey, Can anyone tell me, or even better, show me with a pic, where the clutch booster vacuum pipe connects to on the plenum? I'm using an NA engine in a turbo shell, and utilising the original clutch booster, but I don't know where it should connect to, as I didn't disconnect it having an NA clutch in my NA shell. I'd assume it would connect somewhere near where the brake servo connects...I'm also worried the turbo plenum is different and I don't have the required connection... Cheers!
  16. Interesting, I thought you jacked up the rear as high as possible when installing the engine with the gearbox?
  17. That was almost the plan, but I'm going to replace the clutch...so I figured it would be easier to pull them separately. It took too long pulling the engine, I'm way behind my plan, and those top two gearbox bolts didn't help! But hey, it's out, that's the main thing! Would you recommend re-installing them joined, or putting in the gearbox and then the engine, or engine then gearbox?
  18. Well, I considered that, but that would be the back end of the gearbox, leaving it in wouldn't effect the flywheel side, right? The only think that would effect the front end is the clutch lever, but that shouldn't stop it from being removed. I even considered that the starter might be jammed or something, but I've cleared the flywheel, so can't be that.
  19. Hi all, I currently have my engine in a hoist and it's partially removed, a little above the mounts. The gearbox is loose and currently supported by jacks. The gearbox and engine are almost separated (I think), there is about a two inch gap between the back of the engine and the gearbox, I can see the flywheel and some of the clutch cover. However, I've tried lowering the engine, and the gearbox, to different angles etc, but I just can't free it totally! It's like something is stopping the transmission / input shaft coming out of the flywheel / engine. Any ideas, or tips, or anything, I've been on about 2 hours now, and getting nowhere fast? Cheers!
  20. Is it the entire rear sill, or just the outer sill? Can you post pics? I too was tying to think of a way of removing the effected areas, with minimal damage, as mine were also blended into the bodywork and painted. In the end I just has to cut them off with an angel grinder, and worried about the atheistics later... Sadly the more I delved the more rot I found. Not what you want to hear I know! If you're able to check the sills all the way along, underneath and from the interior, without removing the skirts, then I'd do that. Give them a damn good poking. It could just be the rear sections, they seem to be a common problem (probably because of the drains), I know many have had to do work in this area. It sounds like you've caught early what could have turned into a nightmare, so look on the bright side. So far, from what you've said, it sounds repairable, so I wouldn't freak out yet.
  21. Is it the entire rear sill, or just the outer sill? Can you post pics? I too was tying to think of a way of removing the effected areas, with minimal damage, as mine were also blended into the bodywork and painted. In the end I just has to cut them off with an angel grinder, and worried about the atheistics later... Sadly the more I delved the more rot I found. Not what you want to hear I know! If you're able to check the sills all the way along, underneath and from the interior, without removing the skirts, then I'd do that. Give them a damn good poking. It could just be the rear sections, they seem to be a common problem (probably because of the drains), I know many have had to do work in this area. It sounds like you've caught early what could have turned into a nightmare, so look on the bright side. So far, from what you've said, it sounds repairable, so I wouldn't freak out yet.
  22. Cheers, that's really useful! Unfortunately I will have to un-plumb the power steering pump, to move to the new shell. I plan to do the prep work today, and pull tomorrow.
  23. and they are - When any guide is referring to rear engine mounts, are they in fact talking about the ones on the gearbox, so not actually the engine? In this pic below, is it the power steering pump that's left behind? I'm sure there is third question, but it's not coming to me right now. EDIT - Oh yes, if I've disconnected the gearbox (and everything else) will the engine lift straight up, or do I need to pull it forward away from the gearbox first, then up? Cheers!!

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