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[video=youtube_share;xRry6KpSEB4]

 

Please can someone give me an idea to what is causing this?

 

It gets worse when the engine is warm. I have to drive with the A/C on even tho I have no air con just to up the revs at idle

 

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Edited by Galviniser

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  • Author
Can't watch the video, as at work and youtube is blocked, but have you checked the obvious - MAF and IAV etc?

Recently changed the maf, what's iav?

 

Gonna check the sensor on the side of the plenum tonight

 

Chris

 

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I have had something similar but not quite as severe, I found when changing the MAF I had to disconnect the battery for a while, reconnect and let it do it's thing in learning mode. Might be worth a try?

  • Author
I have had something similar but not quite as severe, I found when changing the MAF I had to disconnect the battery for a while, reconnect and let it do it's thing in learning mode. Might be worth a try?

I'll give it a go tomorrow thankyou.

 

I reset the tps and that worked for a bit, but it still does it, anf it shouldn't

 

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  • Author

It got as bad as this at one point

 

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

It has been near enough sorted now tho, and runs like this

 

I think it might be prudent to start with the basics, by this I mean some of the electrical connectors in the engine bay.

The primary ones being those that attach to the IAC valve, you will find a black (may be Grey, can't remember) one and a yellow one.

You will need to look down the back of the engine slightly close to the battery underneath the main electrical harness, be careful mind as the connectors can be brittle.

Those spring clips can be difficult to remove also.

What you are looking for is signs of corrosion, if this is the case, clean them well and re fit.

Also, look at the engine temperature connectors at the front of the engine just behind the fan, pay particular attention to the yellow one.

This will be a good place to start at least.

  • Author
I think it might be prudent to start with the basics, by this I mean some of the electrical connectors in the engine bay.

The primary ones being those that attach to the IAC valve, you will find a black (may be Grey, can't remember) one and a yellow one.

You will need to look down the back of the engine slightly close to the battery underneath the main electrical harness, be careful mind as the connectors can be brittle.

Those spring clips can be difficult to remove also.

What you are looking for is signs of corrosion, if this is the case, clean them well and re fit.

Also, look at the engine temperature connectors at the front of the engine just behind the fan, pay particular attention to the yellow one.

This will be a good place to start at least.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Before I posted this thread I managed to remove and clean all connection with the metal clips and it still didn't solve the problem.

 

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When the engine is fully up to temperature, have you removed the Yellow connector from the IAC valve so as to set the base idle?

You are looking for around 650RPM and when you reconnect the connector, it should rise by 100RPM as the ECU takes over.

  • Author
When the engine is fully up to temperature, have you removed the Yellow connector from the IAC valve so as to set the base idle?

You are looking for around 650RPM and when you reconnect the connector, it should rise by 100RPM as the ECU takes over.

Mine is an import so it's a different colour plug. I set that before I changed the MAF so it will need re doing but it's running pretty good now.

 

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do a boost leak test

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author
So Galviniser, do you know what you did in the end that stopped the surging?

Yeah sorry.

 

I found out my MAF that I got with an air filter I bought was a non standard, so I put the standard one back on and it runs fine.

 

The thing is, when I put the bad MAF on the car ran find for a few days so it didn't occur to me.

 

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Mine is an import so it's a different colour plug.

 

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FYI the plug is the same colour be it an import or UK spec. ( yellow )

 

Jeff

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