MasterCookieman

If I did go down the 'spares or repairs' Ebay route, considering the rest of the car is good, how much do you think I'd get?

It didn't actually look bad, till I poked it and discovered it was all rust. I think the last MOT may have been a bit dodgy... (before I bought the car)

I could smell fuel from my filler area, turned out I had a hole in the filler pipe right at the inlet.

Nope Jap import...

Cheers, the weird thing is I've looks at the sills from the inside of the car (carpet up obviously) and could see inside the sill and it looked fine, so to discover the bottom missing, well, was kind of a surprise! :sweatdrop:

Hey, thanks for this, it looks very possible. It has given me hope. :) My dad is trying to convince me to put my Zed on his drive and do similar, though I don't believe he's thinking of such a major overhaul, more of simple semi-bodge job, which I've explained wont work. I'm not convinced anything much will happen this year. My rear arches are ok, I've already had to patch up the fuel filler pipe which I then coated with several coats of Hammerite, as well as the arch! The rear bumper fuel tank area looks fine. I'll prod the passengers sill area a little more , but it seemed sound. The thought of expensive body work and respraying afterwards is putting me off...though had considered getting a compressor and gun and attempting the respraying myself. I don't have an indoor area in which to do this however. Well, at least this is a possibility....I'll give it some further thought. Cheers everyone, I'll let you know what I decide.

Out of curiosity how safe or unsafe is this?

This is a sad day. If I couldn't fix her I think she go as spares and repairs as I'm moving back to a location where I'd likely find her keyed, tyres slashed and a brick through the window after a couple weeks. Annoying thing is the other side is fine, the subframes look good, generally the rest of the car looks fine, arms and well pretty much everything is 'solid'. You're right though, something even worse than this could be lurking under the skirts... I'll get a quote, but guess I wont hold my breath for good news. :(

Whilst out today fixing a hole in my sump and painting some of the underbody, I prodded what I though was just loose flaky rust, next thing I know I have a huge gaping hole along the whole sill. I have skirts on, so its hard to tell, if this is the side of the sill or the actual bottom of the sill itself. So...three questions - 1 - Is this fixable, can it be welded and if it can be welded, is it a huge job costing many hundreds? 2 - If welding is possible, will the skirt need removing? 3 - How safe is this, is my drivers side floor likely to drop out; killing me? Thanks all.

If I bolt an ugly one on does that have to be on the drivers side? I probably would have went for the centre.

Thanks guys, looks like I better fit one then, even if it is for one day then folded away underneath! :)

I have an import and its my first MOT with my Zed since I bought her almost a year ago. I don't have a flog light on the back and pretty sure there wasn't one at the last MOT, its just obvious there wasn't one. Do any other import owners here get away without having a rear fog light, do the garage ever just let it slide as they know imports don't usually have a rear fog, or will I have to fit one? Also, is there any legal requirement about the internal switch? I was thinking about using a switch on my pod (I have a Cruise Control pod, but no Cruise for example)? Cheers!

I have an import, but my sidelights are in my with the indicators? You're saying this isn't normally the case?

I know things are getting more and more expensive, but c'mon! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crimp-terminal-female-blade-0-5/dp/B0034PM7SQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1315077429&sr=8-6 If you want 30 of these you're looking at £89,999.70!! lol

Won these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170687586896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1156 Just need two more!

Cheers guys! :) To Ebay I go!

Hey, can anyone tell me if these will these be fine in an NA? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-NGK-PLATINUM-PLUGS-NISSAN-300ZX-3-0-90-PFR6B-11C-/250402525471?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a4d27511f Cheers!

Hey, Has anyone bought one (or two I should say) of these on Ebay? If so, how loud are they? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-200SX-300ZX-UNIVERSAL-BACK-BOX-EXHAUST-27-/150657020960?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2313dbb420 I imagine they're probably the same Db as what I already have on. Thanks!!

A little bit of background, which can be skipped - Since I bought my Zed I've had a big switch on the side of the headlight pod for sidelights / headlights. Apparently the normal turn switch broke and the lights were wired to into this great ugly industrial sized switch inserted into the side of the pod. Later I discovered the lights had been rewired directly from battery, from what I can work out it bypasses the normal relay. I have no permanent main beam on pushing the stalk forward, only 'flash' main beam. Fog lights don't work either. I thought about playing around with the original wiring, to restore it, but discovered after tracing the wiring back from the pod that some wires had melted and fused (the reason I think the lights were re-wired directly from the battery). I sorted this out with insulation tape the best I could, but figured the original wiring was unusable. I came to the conclusion that I just wanted to wire the new wiring into the correct switch. Background over... Today I took apart the headlight pod and then the headlight turn-switch section. I cleaned the contacts and made sure everything was functioning correctly on turning the switch and the contacts were making contact. I'm trying to work out which contacts inside the switch relate to which pins on the rear. See my note below (third pic) - The first two 'main' contacts appear to be the live (main power feed), the second probably being for the sidelights (as they're both connected on the second click of the turn-switch - sidelights), the four 'sub' contacts seem to be for the headlights as they make contact only after the third click of the turn-switch. It looks like contacts 1 and 2 are connected, also separately 3 and 4 too are connected, all on the third click. Does anyone know which pins relate to which contacts? You can see my numbering in the pic above. My dad has my multimeter, but once I have it back it should make things easier. One concern I do have is that the the switch installed in the side of the pod has some fairly heavy wire going to it (15 Amp maybe), the switch itself actually gets hot. I've noticed that the wiring to the original turn-switch is really thin. If I do wire the heavy wiring into the switch I'm concerned it may melt!

...pad depth even.

I'd guess you have 26mm, but anything is possible. If you measure the old disc it should be fairly obvious, or measure the gap in the caliper, minus the pad width.

Worth checking you don't already have the bigger turbo calipers on the front. I bought my new discs, put one disc on fine, other side was a different story. Turned out I had one 30mm caliper and one 26mm caliper!!

I've been thinking about this also, but don't have an enclosed area where I can paint. However, I did find this - http://www.screwfix.com/p/michelin-mb24-24ltr-230v-compressor-5-piece-accessory-kit/24375

I should be able to hit it off then! :) Pics from today...for no good reason really, just 'cause I took them...

Cheers! Though ordered one from Nissan to collect tomorrow...but if I can gstill et it off... You say hit it, which makes me think it doesn't screw, its just placed on over the bolt section?