sayers

im off to shakespeare drag strip this weekend, ........

Bump, can you text me your details again, I have the old cooler removed and in a bag ready for you

I have bought a kit from z1 which converts standard hks blow off valves into recircs. Z1 also provided a replacement hose kit. The hoses are different to the standard ones and I do not know how they fit up. Rather than spending hours trying to figure out the pipework I thought I would ask if anyone has a picture or diagram that will help me . Also. How the heck do I reach the clip holding the lower short pipe in place.

There is one of those dumped on a car park near me, been there for a few months now , not moved etc etc,

Hi all, I understood that ALL OEM UK clocks had 2 potentiometers in them for speedo range and position adjustment and that Jap clocks only had 1, The reason I ask is that I have bought what are OEM UK clocks in appearance , but when you look at the dial there is only one Potentiometer which make me think they are Jap. This combined with the fact that I took the OEM UK dial out of its cluster and put it in my Jap cluster for ease , only to find it did not work ( exactly the same circuit board on back of cluster between UK and Jap ) has me a bit lost . Thoughts from anyone who knows ? Ta Sayers

I am looking for accuracy up to a ton. Will I get enough adjustment by using the standard clockswith 2 potentiometers ?

Which is easier, fitting a NA Speed sensor, or turning the potentiometers on the Speedo, ?? how much is a NA speed sensor ? anyone got one ? or back to the original , does anyone know how to use the potentiometers to correctly adjust for different speeds ?

Hi Jeff, I have a NA rear axle and a TT manual gearbox but an auto ECU, I thought this combination meant it would be out on the speedo ??

okay , I now have a set of UK clocks , ( thanks to Mondo), now the UK clocks have 2 potentiometers that can be used for adjustment, does anyone know which one does what.? or where to find a guide on adjustment. Ta Sayers

text me your full address to 07929159828, it may be a week on Saturday when I get to it , I hope this does not cause an issue,

all you need to do is take my cooler and mounting bracket, then run 2 rubber pipes to extend the current gearbox cooler feed and return pipes, simple,

I changed the standard Jap OEM engine cooler for a bigger Mocal one, then I used the old engine cooler as a new gearbox cooler, and routed pipework from the box to the cooler , rather than to the radiator, Then I changed the gearbox to manual one , but left the cooler in situ, next weekend il be changing the intakes to a sellin and removing the old auto box cooler and associated pipework, if you cover postage ill send it to you.

you can have my set up,

All fitted and good grief what a difference, I have had to turn the suspension damping to soft just to get some sort of ride comfort, just goes to show how tired the old OEM stuff was, very happy and massive thanks to Andyzx for working with me on the sale,

Need urgent advise. Just come to fit my new front coil overs and am stuck on how to proceed. The photos shows the full extended BC and the standard OEM. The difference in length is massive. It just does not seem right. Can anyone guide as to the way towards asap

That has the same connector on it as my oem airbag wheel so my money says its a straight fit . Now the hicas part may be different but i do not know the answer to that

As above needed must be in good nick .please pm me if you have something .not text as im in spain

both leaking , pass side rear covered in oil , driver side rear not quite as covered,

Well I took a look at mine today. They looked fine . Apart from the oil that was pissed all over the blasted things.

Thanks Pete, ill take a few snaps of what is currently and upload them so you may have something a little better to comment.

Thanks Pete. Out of curiosity what is the real world impact of having a higher spring rate of 8 - 6. Is it likely to break traction easily ? Do you know what the stock rates are ? What I need to ensure is not too much suspension travel at the back due to the widened arches. Bodymech cut the old arches back for me and placed a wide arch on it similar to Bob's race car. what I have found is the current tein setup sometimes rubs on the cut back portion of the old arch. I currently have tein adjustable and have a 2 inch gap between the top of the tyre and the inside edge of the plastic over arch. And probable 4 inches between the tyre and the cut back old arch lip. So I'm sure something is wrong to enable it to rub from time to time

BC Racing or Driftworks ? what do you chaps think is the better solution for street and occasional drag strip use. BC BR RS 8/6Kg/mm Nissan 300ZX Z32 1990-1996 Or DRIFTWORKS HSD MONOPRO COILOVERS NISSAN 300ZX Z32 VG30 DRIFT TRACK SUSPENSION (Fits: Nissan 300 ZX) Spring rates: 7kg/mm (front), 5kg/mm (rear) Front top mounts: Pillowball Rear top mounts: Rubber

I have Tein coilovers fitted ( old ones ), the car is not slammed to the floor, it has a 2 " gap between the arch lip and tyre, yet the suspension travel is allowing the tyre to rub on the Arch lip when I go over potholes, It is almost like I need to change the stroke length to be shorter and thus stop the rubbing at the lowest point,

Bump, anyone have any ideas?

going to upgrade my coilovers as the current set up is allowing the tyre to rub on the widened overarch when going over bumps and undulations in the road, ( body mech fitted them for me ). In fact currently I have a 2 " gap between the tyre and arch lip, so im wondering if I need coilovers with adjustable stroke length, anyone got any good ideas ??