Black-zed

my JDM manual has the push button to release the key, but mine was manual from new. I had a uk car that I think was manual from new and that didn't have the push button.

I did also think it could be compensating for the lower octane fuel in Japan, there's is 90 Ron I believe and ours is 95. I think I'll look at a suitable map, I couldn't remember my last zed popping & banging like a boy racers car.

hi guys just a quick one, my car is currently running a stage one map which when jimmer pulled it up on consult he said dosen't look like a uk map because of quite a few red areas on there (I have no idea) but I believe it was remapped in Japan before it came over. anyhow ever since I have had the car I get popping from the exhaust when I'm on over run, which I guess is unburnt fuel entering the exhaust. would changing to a more uk friendly map get rid of this? it currently sounds like the local boy racers fiesta with a baked bean can exhaust. I have also noticed a vast improvement in acceleration after fitting newer style injectors on the car. my current set up 370cc later style injectors, apexi air filter, free flowing exhaust and his evc 2 boost controller

just had a look and this part has been superseded by 24429-40P11 according to nissan genuine which turns out to be the battery under tray.

it needs to be constant welds not tacked, for one the rear sill is the jacking point for the car and it is classed as structural for an mot as it sits within 30cm of a seatbelt mounting point.

had mine done a few years ago now, think that cost me £600 or there about, but that ended up rear sills, edges of floor pans and front corners of the floor pans and repairing wing bottoms. so I would say at least £700 for both now, no point it prepping yourself, just let the welder do it all.

universal one are available to replace them, or genuine from z1 or concept so nissan genuine maybe able to source them, but it is the later type and the connector is different.

hi guys I have a JDM series one car with uk clocks fitted, every time I come to a stop a get a 'bong' from the car. is there anyway to disable this? I think the only other time I hear the bong sound is when I open the door with the lights on.

yes you need to splice them into your own wiring though as the connector is different, I have micro numberplate lights on mine.

todays job was an mot pass, 1 advisory on a 'slight' oil leak and the one hand brake seems to be a bit lazy, all in all not to bad

well not exactly today, but yesterday and today stripped the plenum off the engine, fitted a new set of later style injectors & adaptors, new pcv Valves and new pcv silicone pipes (replacing the z1 silicone pcv kit, which actually leaks oil through the pipes), disconnected and capped the egr feeds, and reinstated the stock fuel rail and dumped those ghastly braided fuel lines, new fuel hose right the way through. she fired up 2nd turn od the key firing on all 6! a good weekends work

mine still has 2 lines in the the solenoid at the moment, the 3rd one on the y piece you mention feeds straight to the boost controller with the other joint of the 'y' capped, I've left them as they are for now as I didn't have any caps to go on the intake lines, I'll get it tidied up at some point.

Det sensor has the resistor mod and one of the pipes from each solenoid has been removed and plugged, bit of a strange set up but I’m not running massive boost

Hi guys just a quick one, I have a boost controller on the car but while replacing injectors I’ve noticed the origins boost solenoids are still connected. Vac line from the air intake I know can be removed and plugged, however does the electrical connected to them still need to be plugged in or can I unplug it?

cheers Andrew, it was what I was thinking, the current z1 silicone hoses on the car are oil soaked due to no lining so shouldn't be to hard to cut open.

can't see any issues with it, take a look here it has quite a good article on the subject https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/copper-tubing-fuel-line

there are 3 full lines to the tank part numbers are 17523-30P20 return line 17510-30p20 and fuel vapour line 17530-42p20 which I think will probably all be discontinued, but take a look at jp parts in the link and you may get some details. I'll guess current lines are steel and I would say are 8mm in line with the fuel lines under the bonnet. https://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&cartype=25&fig=173

hi guys just a quick one, just had a set of SFS silicone pcv hoses delivered and I've just noticed they don't have restrictors in or flame arrestors in the front breathers do I just swap these from my old pcv hoses or can I fit without? my current hoses are z1 silicone and they aren't flouro lined so leaking oil through the hose, at least the sfs hoses are lined.

I replaced all my lines a few years ago, the only one that hasn't been changed is the link between both fuel rails which I'll get sorted at the time.

last time I saw someone order a new windscreen which I think was funky si, he said they aren't held in stock anymore in the uk and have to be made to special order which took around 6+ weeks, yes being JDM your tint is brown. checking on nissan genuine they are still available so worth checking with your local nissan dealer part number 72712-41P00 which are around £630, failing that I believe slick Pete is breaking his car which I think is a slicktop, but I'm not sure if the windscreen is different.

I'll look into the injector circuit mod as well I think, I've got to speak to jimmer next week and can organise from there.

due to the covid-19 virus going on I'm currently waiting for my work to start back up (I'm a wedding dj) so dosh is a little tight at the mo, I can afford to fix it but need to keep some funds for bills etc. but it's something I would look at in the future. I know the car is mapped, but when jimmer looked at my map he thinks it could be a Japanese map.

hi guys so I have a misfire on cylinder 6 (I think the rear cylinder next to the battery ) anyhow been right through it, spark plug is wet when i remove it, checked for spark and that seemed a bit weak so I have a s2 PTU on he car but used the adaptor harness from the series one plugs, so I hardwired the s2 plugs to my loom. I pulled the injector connector gave the injector terminals a clean, measures the resistance and it was 12.3 ohm, however put it all back together still missing, I listened to the injector with a stethoscope and it's working but it hasn't got the high pitched 'ping' of the other injectors, so after speaking to jimmer we both now think it's a faulty injector (lucky I have 6 month mot extension it was going in for test tomorrow) so I'm guessing it's going to be a plenum off job to do this little bleeder. is it worth just replacing all 6 and done with it?

yes mine does it, apparently it's a trait of swapping to uk clocks

this has been covered before the km milometer will still register km's regardless of the speedo attached, if you compare the km milometre to the uk milmeter you will see the size of the cogs are different.