Black-zed

cheers Andrew, I guess it'll most likely be brittle after 30yrs and will just snap.

cheers Andrew, I guess I can replace the retainer brackets without removing the bumper? no to bothered about the clip at the moment.

yes I've got those clips ordered as one of mine is missing, but the clip I mentioned is along the top edge where the bumper bolts to the wing, after watching a you tube video it looked like there is a clip holding the bracket to the bumper

hi guys just ordered a new pair of these brackets to go behind the side of the front bumper as mine have rusted, I notice they have a clip at the top to hold them to the front bumper between the mounting bolts. but can these be replaced without completely removing the front bumper? I'm not too worried about the top clip at the moment, as I can't seem to find any reference to a part number for it. plus I know one of the wing studs that hold the front bumber on is just turning in the wing.

that would be my plan too, although I may need to travel a little further to get hold of super unleaded after sept, but I only tend to do 1000 miles a year so will have to buy fuel whilst out rather than locally.

just seen an interesting debate about E10 petrol which is due to be the main petrol in the Uk from September, (obviously high octane e5 will still be available) will our cars run on e10 or would it cause damage? I only ask as I live in a rural area so still getting E5 could be an issue.

could be AIV solenoids should be one on both sides they feed into the exhaust and would have vac lines into the engine bay.

a good welder/fabricater can make them from scratch, I know jimmer uses the metal monkey in bristol and his work is a1, you would never know the car has been repaired.

czp are pretty good if you leave the declared customs box on zero you avoid the import duty

jimmer at Powerzed would be the guy to ask, if anyone would know, he would.

had a short shifter in mine, bloody thing was horrid, I removed it a couple of years ago, unfortunately its left my car with a bit of a clunk/grind between 1st & 2nd and 2nd & 3rd luckily I have a spare box which I'll get jimmer to chuck in when the clutch needs replacing.

I had issues trying to run it as well, but I never got to the bottom of it, may give the link above a try

I believe it was a Nissan navana, I bought some for mine a couple of years ago.

hi Jeff. car has always popped from the exhaust since I bought it 10 years ago, you did the cam belt on it as it was a tooth out when I bought it so you couldn't time it properly you did the belt 2013/14, so it's a little over due but only done 10k since it was changed (will be done next year). injectors have all been replaced a few months back with later style injectors. jimmer did look at the map when the car was with him a couple of years ago, and he said there were a lot of 'red' sections on the rear part of the map which wasn't normal for a uk map, so we concluded it had a jap map chip in the car, I'm not sure if there is a octane difference between jap & uk fuel. exhaust is stainless right the way through, but it's a power flow system, the down pipes which they did 3/4 years ago have some of the worst welds i've ever seen. but I've got brand new japspeed turbo elbows and down pipes which will go on next year, plus the cat back will be changed, it's currently 2 straight pipes to the back box (no x/h pipe) the only part not changed is the exhaust, so for the cost I think I'll try a different map ad see if it's any different.

Ok I’ll take a look, I’m running pretty stock apart from boost controller, induction and exhaust

I’m just outside Wales in the Forest of Dean (9 miles from Monmouth)

hi guys looking at changing my ecu chip over the winter, I currently have a jap map in mine which seems to be overfilling on the over run (popping from exhaust) although the car runs ok, I want to get rid of the boy racer 'pop' I've come across turbonoz stage 1 chips, couple of questions are these any good? and they list 2 for a manual t/t one standard and one listed as a jwt, descriptions on both are exactly the same so anyone got any idea of the differences? the other option is I have my old zed currently for parts, which has a chip in I bought from a club member around 16/17 years ago, not sure if this was a Jim Dixon chip (or a modified version) but I always had an auto gearbox code so not sure if that was the chip or the ecu itself had been changed.

technically the downpipes should be the same, they should match to your current exhaust on early cars, I think on later models the bolt flanges to the mid section were slightly different so worth checking that too. you should be able to do the turbo elbows as well, but it's probably easier with the car on a ramp to be fair, it's also worth spending £100 and swapping your o2 sensors at the same time.

Not sure if anybody has seen this weeks show but they have finally done a z32, was quite funny though they picked up a used zorst then in later shots it had a brand new stainless system, they also let slip they fitted new suspension that they never listed in the parts bought ??

this is the injector kit I bought https://conceptzperformance.com/aus-injection-aus-injectors-early-to-late-upgrade-370cc-380cc-set-w-optional-adapter-kit-for-90-94tt-nissan-300zx-z32-10491-380-6_p_38129.php

fit later style injectors, 370cc you can retain the standard Ecu chip with them. I bought a complete kit for mine including adaptors/ wiring plugs etc for around £400 from czp you will also need fuel rail lower seals and insulators. cylinder 1 will require the plenum grinding to clear the new injector plug. did mine over a weekend. just remember to lubricate all the injector seals when refitting, I used vaseline on mine but you can also use wd40.

I'd only get jimmer to do cam belt, its not the sort of thing I'd trust to anyone. mines due next year.

you may need to subscribe to upload pics.

I would imagine your best bet will be the stock setup , as even with that it's close to the 16" wheels, why not just buy new discs and a used set of front callipers then get them refurbished.

to give you an idea of how the clutch will feel without the booster, try depressing the clutch pedal without the engine running, I wouldn't want to run one without the booster.