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Black-zed

Premium Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Black-zed

  1. on a mac on the main finder window, it's go>utilities>disk utility a friend of mine had a locked drive with all his music on it that he couldn't access after changing computers, i got straight into on my mac and copied his stuff over then reformatted the drive for him
  2. if you know somebody with a 'mac' they maybe able to do it through disk manager but i don't think a windows pc will allow you to do it through standard disk management, you may get around it with a 3rd party disk management program
  3. Hi Si everything is stock apart from poly bushes in the torsion rods, possibly an issue caused by those, or maybe when the rods were fitted by a local they were not tightened correctly,i've only started to notice this after fitting new proved front discs & replaced the servo
  4. quick update on this, i've been out this morning checked both front lower arms and there seems to be no obvious cracking around the tension rod mounting bolts, i did however check the bolts before removing them and both passenger side mounting bolts had loosened, and one drivers side, i can see where the nuts have been moving/rubbing against the bottom of the lower arm, only by 2 or 3mm however. so tightened them back up with a long breaker bar this time. hopefully this will fix the issue only a few miles will tell if they come loose again i shall look at replacing the stud/nuts with bolts & nylocks nuts
  5. yes i did mention that in my original post there was an issue with them with poly bushes fitted. looks like i know what i'm doing tomorrow lol
  6. hi guys i think i'm looking at front torsion rods or lower arms, but when braking particularly if i'm going 5/10mph when it's most noticeable when i brake suddenly/hard it feels like something moves on the front end and springs back when i release the brakes, i noticed it more today when i had right lock on. i've got poly bushes already on my torsion bars so am i right in thinking these have failed or the lower arms have cracked?
  7. red stich oem is what i have in mine, and now just bought red stitch gear & handbrake gaiters and centre console lid to match
  8. well according to dvla tax check j300swb has not been taxed since aug 2009 and mot expired 6th june 2015
  9. i think with the trio's new show top gear will be history, i'm not a chris evans fan at all to be fair
  10. clarkson, hammond & may have signed for amazon prime with a new show coming next year! a bit of good news for petrol heads everywhere
  11. i've been running several test machines for weeks and got to say it's better than windows 8 (the reason i switched to mac) so now just in the process of starting to upgrade to full versions
  12. i was with admiral for years with the zed and my then daily driver a volvo v70, the volvo always stayed around £300, the zed started at £249 first year, 2nd year it went to £500 so i changed the zed to flux and kept the volvo with admiral, until i bought the range rover and they wanted £600, i think this year was my best deal yet, zed with flux for £269, range rover is with the AA for £232 both fully comp and protected no claims
  13. i've been with them 3 years jap tt 6000 miles per year fully comp, first year was £260 then it rose to £275 in the 2nd year, this year just over £300, i went onto compare the market did a comparison for a fairlady z (this is important as uk car is cheaper to insure) best quote i got was £269 called them and they dropped my price to £260 without asking to see comparison quote. isn't there a club discount in place?
  14. i looked at them the other day and as the trims are leather i asked if any of the trims are stitched because leather won't stretch enough especially on door cards and rear lower 1/4 panels but i still haven't had a reply, but i'm guessing not with no option for stitching colour, but watch the synthetic leather trims do too, they don't stretch, and look horrid with the amount they need to stretch for some panels. it's easier to buy a few metres of upholstery leatherette here in the uk and cut your own panels by using the tweed you removed as a template, but if buying off eBay buy samples first to make sure it stretches in both directions, i've just bought some samples like the colours but it only stretches slightly in one direction and heat doesn't help it to stretch further.
  15. hi guys looking at retiming my interior panels and i'm at a decision point got it to 3 colours cream (which i'm waiting a sample) red or grey, didn't think i'd like the red option but i've found a nice dark red rather than the bright garish ones i've seen before. this is going in a black car.
  16. I'm currently looking at redoing mine, my cars black so I replaced the tweed with black vinyl, but I don't like it anymore it's too dark and with everything black it needs something to break it up, my current thoughts are red, cream or grey with cream or grey 1st choices grey would prob suit your car
  17. hi guys after a few interior trim pieces, rather buy from someone on here than ebay as i know what i'll be getting, ebay could be worse than my current parts. all parts are for j-spec series 1 lwb (front seat belts on doors & Rear lap belts) first of all looking for a few screws (4 approx) the counter sunk screws that hold the sill panels and plastic door card trims that go around the seatbelts on a j-spec both door cards not to worried if they are trimmed in tweed but ideally i need the top/bottom vinyl sections to be in good condition, and the the brackets for the trim clips need to be intact. both rear 1/4 panel lower section again not to worried about external condition but must have all the clips on the rear intact, mine have a few bent or broken luggage space blind/cover, again looking for an undamaged unit, with no tears in the blind passenger side rear 1/4 glass surround (the plastic trim inside the car) again looking for an undamaged unit, my current one has a split in the plastic i won't be online for a few days after tonight, as my computer has to go back to mr apple to have a new hard drive, so will get back to anyone who has parts as soon as i can
  18. no probs fella thats what the sites about
  19. bit more info relating taken from a post on here Behind the wheel arch passenger side there is a green box with 2 connectors going into it, has this number written on it 28575 37P10 PD9. 1 connector has 4 wires, 1 has 6 wires. Remove the green box. Each connector has a red with black stripe wire - connect these two together.
  20. yes there is a control unit with 2 multi plugs going into it, apparently easy to bypass i did find something on one of the other 300zx sites but lost the link now
  21. dim dip relay is under one of the front wheel arch liners, passenger side i believe
  22. shocking isn't the word, i had 2.5" front pipes made up, they cut the original flanges of the old pipes and welded the new pipes onto them, so i haven't truly got 2.5" all the way through there will be restriction on the flanges, when i arrived to pick the car up he was just finishing the fitting, then discovered 2 of the joints were leaking it turned out these were both on the welds onto the flanges, after 2 attempts the garage owners friend turned up, turned the welder up and welded it properly.but it looks like pigeon sh@t after so many attempts, they used silicone sealant on the exhaust joints, if it wasn't for the fact it was 6PM (i was told to be there 4.30) and i had to be somewhere i'd have got it redone. and to add insult to injury the bill was £400, admitidly £80 of that was to drill out 2 exhaust studs that had snapped off when trying to remove the old front pipes. i do agree about removing the powerflow but it's a job for next year now as i'd be lucky to recoupe 1/2 of my £400 outlay, that plus the cat back is powerflow and they twisted the flanges slightly on those so exhaust would have to go as one as it wouldn't mate up to anything else
  23. if you mean the ones to attach through the bulkhead, studs are 60mm long, on the rear they have a distance of 90mm apart left to right and 70mm apart top to bottom
  24. i vaguely remember when i had my uk zed on the road, when i fitted HID's i had to do a wiring modification on the back of the light switch to disable the dim/dip

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