Bilky

lovl!!!!!!

lol !!!!!!!!!

Saw one of them in Soutport on Saturday - a nice blue one.

For 40K I'd buy a 350Z and a Cooper S.

I've spent £2.75 on modding mine - a nice air freshener. Lovely.

Minty like a polo?

How about a sing song? 'Ohhhhhh - I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK, I sleep all night and I work all dayyyyy....' All together now. 1 2 3

I'll give you a ring Andy - easier than messaging!!!

OI! why pay more for tyres if they only last 5000 miles! at £65 a tyre fitted, I'm pleased with them! And when can I come round and get that hatch off you!!!

IF you are on a budget then I've found the KUMHO Ecsta trye to be good value

OK - if you notice a drop off in acceleration as you approach 7,200rpm then change up, and get your engine checked as well! Mine revs like a possessed thing up to 7200 and only changes because its programmed to and would explode otherwise - Most cars will peak out at 5,500 rpm - the zx just keeps going - amazing engine. When I wanna have some fun - OD button off, POWER mode on. and grin!

It does have its use - IF you use Power to override the box it will hold off changing gear for longer, even if you arnt flooring it. IT wont rev any higher than the normal redline, but it avoids the box changing gear for longer - otherwise you can find that if you back off the gas a bit in normal mode, the box changes up, then when you want to carry on accelerating, it has to kick down, the power mode will keep the gear until it gets fed up and then changes. If you are having a race against someone - override the box with the switch.

All good info guys! Much appreciated and learned something new.

Whats a UCL?

Has anyone got any temp figures on this or any stats as it'll be quite interesting to know.

Heh - I didnt....I bypassed the radiator completely as its prone to blocking up with debris and you dont want that - so I left it out of the equation. If the engine oil cooler only works at high pressure, then its not going to be used much and so I would be surprised if the one fitted isnt good enough to last a few seconds of heat dissipation. It isnt used all the time like the autobox cooler is - thats a constant flow through - hence why I dont think its worth doing - I stand to be corrected of course - provided someone can prove it with temperature reading etc. But I've never noticed it even get warm. Now if you removed the pressure valve so it circulated freely, or fitted a temperature switch - THEN I would agree entirely, it would be worth doing. IMO of course!

TBH - I'd leave the engine oil cooler as it is - its not used much anyway.....just concentrate on the autobox cooler. What I did with mine was to make a U shaped bracket with the parts I was sent and bolted it where the engine oil cooler is bolted to the car - then the new cooler sat on top of the long part of the bracket with a cushioning rubber strip to protect it (old bicycle inner tube strip!) You could easily pop to B&Q to get some aluminium pieces to make your own bracket as the brackets you get arnt the strongest, but they seem to do a good enough job.

Not going - but take some pics of Villeneuve driving his Dads Ferrari - that should be quite a sight.

Just thought I'd add in this bit of trivia - I work for Johnsons Dry Cleaners....free plug....we are moving away from chorinated solvents for silicone based fluids, the only company in the UK to do so - its expensive stuff but its all in aid of helping the environment. We have about 20 branches so far using it - its called 'Green Earth'

Failing all the above which is good advice - it may be the discs you are using - try them in another unit to check - or buy some branded discs and try one of those - it can be a bit of trial and error with some units as to what they will read. Plus, the burner can cause problems, have you got the latest firmware for your drive?

Ah - with the auto you will then have 2 coolers in the front space below the air induction - be careful you dont oversize the auto box cooler so the induction system cant fit back in! I think with one that big you may struggle for space but measure the dimensions first otherwise you'll have to send it back and get a smaller one! I can give you the spec of mine which fits nicely with my HKS induction if you want. This is what I bought for mine - I have seen people gor for the 13 row cooler as well 10 Row cooler 230mm wide 3.8 bsp Male - 46.45 3/8 female 90 degree for 3/8 hose x2 - 1.90 each 3.80 Oil hose 100R6 3/8 x3 - 5.37 / metre 16.11 Pair cooler brackets x2 - 2.94 each 5.88 Jubilee clips x4 - 63p each 2.52

Web site - http://www.thinkauto.com Theres lots of details on there. I put my cooler in front of the Engine cooler and it does get hot - but not too hot, and it makes the transmission tunnel run cool now.

The oil cooler (engine) is only used when the oil is at a certain pressure, not temperature - its hardly ever used really - have a feel of the fins after a good run - betcha its cold. Not being funny - but I wouldnt advise using the cooler thats had used old engine oil being converted to have nice clean uncontaminated transmission fluid in it - can you gurantee to get all the deposits out? - Auto Transmission oil is an excellent cleaning agent and will flush out any crud missed over time and will duff your box in. Do what I did and just buy the cooler for the transmission and save yourself a few quid too - I bought my parts from ThinkAuto and for £86 delivered you can have a nice cooler with all the fittings and brackets.

Try Phil at C&S Wood - he'll give you an honest opinion.

Dont watch the clip then