Bilky

I dont fancy a seal kit on advice that they may not always do the trick. Shunter - do you know the mileage the ZX had done with this Cylinder?

I hang my head in shame.....

I'd say TT as the NA didnt have the spoiler if I remember right and that looks like it has the holes from a spoiler removal.....

You need to get the engine warm (obviously!) then have the heater on high and hottest temp - then with the radiator cap off AND the bleed valve at the other end of the rad (plastic cap) you should be able to get the air out. Once you've done as much as you can drive it round and check the level regularly for a few days to see if it needs topping up. That should do it though.

Is there any chance you can take some pictures of it so I can compare it to mine to check the fittings on it please? Many thanks.

You're much better off using the new cooler for the transmission - its nice and clean.

Shunter! Quick reply there mate! What history/condition is it in. If I remember right theres 2 types do both fit any Z?

Does anyone have one in good working order and if so how much? Been advised not to bother with seals and get a second hand good one. So any help is appreciated!!! Thanks.

Thanks guys!

Does anyone know the size of spanner to buy for removing the brake line nuts from the brake master cylinder and does Halfords sell them? Thanks!

Yeah I know the master cylinder is a culprit in these things, but I cant see any fluid around it - thats not to say its not seeping out and running down the line to the bottom of the car!!!! I'll have a better look in the daylight today and see if I can trace the source better.

The fluid goes down every now and then but always seemed worse after very cold weather. Anyway the other day I have a puddle of fluid on the floor and zero pedal resistance......I have a feeling one of the hard lines on the drivers side may have split. So my question is - Is this hard line easy to replace or is it a pain and gonna cost lots of dosh to get it sorted. I'm hoping that at either end of this hard pipe it goes to a rubber pipe so its not too painful to replace...But knowing Nissan, these things run all the way to the ABS unit.....like spaghetti junction plumbing! Is taking the brake line guard off easy enough - I havent got underneath to have a proper look yet..... Any help would be great!

I'm sooo pissed off! I was following another car and we come to a part of the road that narrows to one lane to go over a small bridge, a white Transit stops for the first car but then starts to move and blocks my exit so I hit him. Theres perfect sight of all cars. Ive got a witness but you never know how the insurance companies will deal with it.

If cleaning the temp sender - its the one on the left as you look at the engine bay. Clean the connectors up as they can get green and corroded.

Some people use a cup or two of power steering/auto box fluid - it has a detergent property that can cure the lifter noise. But really - changing the oil first is a good idea. Only resort to additives as a last gasp fix before changing parts is needed!

I had the same problem - except I could rule out a convertor as it didnt have one. Sometimes the circuit board on the back of the speedo dial gets loose connections - I took mine apart and resolcered every joint - fixed it up nicely. Its free so worth doing before shelling out money.

Phil at C&S Wood in Astley Manchester is superb for Z work.

be very careful with ecu upgrades, especially where its off ebay and not generally spoken of for our cars. They tend to increase the red line and up the boost level but thats it. With the JWT it also adjusts the fuel map to compensate so you dont blow your engine up! My advice - save your pennies up and do it right. Its an expensive engine to fix.

This can be caused by the TPS not being in the correct range - if you search for tps and adjustment you will find a write up explaining what to do.

yak - dont clean it out and then use it on your transmission. I'e said this to anyone who intends to do it this way - Auto fluid is detergent like - it will clean it out and get any dirt left in there and circulate it round your transmission....Use your new cooler for the transmission only. Its impossible to clean it out well enough to use it on an autobox.

Yep - its exactly as described - the plastic arm off the barrel. Tried a superglue fix but no luck - will have to see what I can come up with!

Cheers lads - great info! All I have to do now is get the door trim off!

I have the problem where there is no resistance in the lock when the key is turned, and you cant lock/unlock the door - does anyone know of a way to fix the plastic arm thats broken in a DIY fashion? Any help or ideas welcome! Thanks.

Heh - Phils got a move on with that - When I picked mine up your still had no engine in it - I know because I was checking the condensor piping out with Phil and theres was a big hole where the engine lives!!!! Looks great now!

Yes they sell new coolers, but then tell you to use the old one as your autobox cooler...and use the new one as the engine oil cooler. No, its not difficult to do yourself - hardest job is re-routing the new piping to the hard pipes from the old system! I did mine for about 80-90 quid from a company called thinkauto - very helpful - I used a mocal cooler and placed it in from of the engine oil cooler and in my case it was a jap auto so I disconnected the standardcooling system that uses the radiator and just used the new one. Easily done in an afternoon.