Bilky

Or one of these from Demon Tweeks? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=GLOHA25

Is there a temp gauge that you can buy that will use the standard temp sensor already plumbed into the hard pipe - or is there one that comes with a new sensor that can replace the stock sensor without drilling etc? I'd like to see what my water temp is 'really' like while I'm driving... Ta.

Are these still available and if so from where? Thanks.

Well isnt this a coincedence....Mine is doing the exact same thing - I've got an exhaust leak in the section holding the catalytic convertor that MR Duff is sorting out for me - Its got us stumped at the moment - I changed my plugs and it made no difference. - I reckon its either a vacuum leak or it could be a fault in the airflow meter as mentioned above.....I'll be sure to post up what Andy tries and hofeully finds as the cure.....

very unlikely - its either wheel balancing - warped discs or the brake tension rods worn thats causing that. Does the steering wheel vibrate at that speed without braking? If so the wheels need balancing -but its also worth changing the brake discs - they arnt expensive £120 should get you a pair and change the pads. If it still shakes then its the tension rods....

Yeah, I found that tip and it worked - didnt need to remove the bar so a bi tless hassle - yep - no way I'm paying £25 for 3 pieces of plastic when I can build all 6 for about £15-17 quid.

Not done it but its a good idea - If you fit an auto box cooler then it will be easier to fit one at that point where the line goes into the cooler box.

Yeah, but they cost a fortune and if these are the same pattern they are infinately cheaper.

The left hand one is for cruise control so its normal for it not to move in that way.

Specifically the back 2 by the balance bar - I've got the other 4 off and I want to replace or at least clean these last 2 up as they have poor connections which I think may be causing a misfire..... does anyone have any tips on how to do them as the metal clip is facing away from me and I cant easily pry the clip out.... also - I've come across this website that looks like they stock injector connectors - can anyone verify from the pictures if they are a match or will fit with any modifications as they are very well priced..... http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/connectors/photo/4145.jpg or if this one fits as its a bit larger but has an easy spring clip removal on it http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/connectors/photo/192147.jpg any help is appreciated. Ta!

Well, there is a kickdown microswitch under the accelerator pedal, maybe that can be disconnected?

If its a jap import you put it in hold and take the overdrive off if I remember correctly. Its unlikey to change down then as theres no real load on the engine.

Did it do this before you fitted HID's?

Found the problem, a split pipe, the one that comes from the idle valve to the balance bar - part code - 14860NE - Mr Duff is a star - he had a spare on a plenum leaning against his garage and even though he's not about still said I could go and get it and use it! Hows that for being helpful! Anyhow - I now have a nice steady idle again.

Some laptops are trickier than others...some are a screw plate underneath the machine and it clips in - others can be keyboard out jobs...If your not sure for memory the crucial website will take you step by step through the process for your laptop and tell what you need and how much - I'm not sure if it also tells you how to fit it as well....

I get 30mpg out of mine on a motorway cruise. 375 miles out of a tank

I'll try and get to all the connectors... temp is fine as new plug on it. but will work through all the others just to be sure they are done. bought some carb cleaner to help out as well! Andy Duff has been a star and will be trying a few replacement parts just in case somethings packed up like the CAS sensor mucking the timing up On the plus side I'm not down on power as I had a good blast with a 350z and was quicker than him on the M6 yesterday. Fuel consumption is also not affected as a 270 mile trip has used 2/3 of a tank which isnt bad. Cheers for all the replies guys.....

There isnt always a drain plug for the TT - mine doesnt have one - I siphoned the fluid out of the filler neck using a pump I bought from Demon tweeks.

Theres a definate struggle for the engine - you can feel it vibrate even though the revs seem respectable. It literally started doing while I was in traffic a couple of weeks ago and it hasnt cleared up. Andy checked the timing and o2 stuff on a Conzult and all looked ok - but I havent tried cleaning the idle connectors - I cant turn the screw to adjust the idle as the battery is in the way and the angle for the screwdriver is too steep. crappy design. I'll have to try and rig up a boost leak gizmo and see if I've sprung a leak somewhere.

The MAF sensor is worth a look - temp sender is fine and clean.....I think it might be something electrical as this appeared while idling and hasnt gone away. I can clean the MAF sensor and hot wire with some carb cleaner.

TPS has been checked - Been to Andys twice as he's only 15 mins away and theres nothin obvious going on - conzult checked out fine - one thing that does need doing is the passenger downpipe has a hole in it and needs replacing - dunno if that can cuase rough idle or not - O2 sensors check fine.

OK - heres the symptoms..... uneven idle - revs stay around 750rpm but idles rough. No hesitation Fuel economy is fine No loss of power. Changed fuel filter cleaned throttle bodies replaced spark plugs when removing each injector connector - engine note drops, then picks back up when plugged back in ditto for the coil packs. sprayed carb cleaner into idle unit. none of this has made any difference. Was going to squirt wd-40 into idle unit in case its got sticky. But I'm out of ideas at the moment The car runs perfect off idle, its just when it comes back down. Any ideas welcome.

It could be the brake tension rods getting a bit old - they hold the caliper in place under load and the heavy braking might just be moving it a little bit. Have a look at the rod coming off near the caliper to the main chassis and see if theres any evidence of leaking like a shock absorber.

If you get the sequence right on the JAP spec the 'POWER' light flashes. Not sure which it would be on the uk spec though - its one of the 3 lights on the right of the steering column.

No idea why there are 4 pipes - but I'd ignore that cooling option and buy a separeate oil cooler for the box and put it in front of the oil cooler - It will keep the temp down miles better than the radiator option. You dont need to connect the pipes up for normal engine cooling.