Slick Pete.

Her first and only option is to consult a solicitor.. NOW. As most of us live in England and you are in Bonnie Scotland(where I was born) there may be differencies in Law that we are not aware of.So any advice from us will be of limited value(possibly)

As always the camera lies. It actually sits fairly high ATM as there is no engine/box in it.

So a long day today and a big push to get this work finished for the weekend. I dont normally go back out after dinner but tonite I did to get the splitter/undertray finished. Earlier in the day I re assembled the painted headlights and fitted them in the shell properly. The look is growing on me but Im pleased that following a few calculations the whole splitter /undertay weight is only slightly above the weight saving on these headlights. Just the roof vent to go then...........

Personally i dont use etch primer on mixed surfaces. While it is designed to stick to bare metal well it doesnt adhere to old paint as well as 2K in my experience. Modern good quality 2K primer is very good on its own and will cover any colour 100%. As its chemically cured too it sticks well to everything. Bare metal, old flatted down paint. fibreglass flatted properly, hair,skin, dogs paws etc etc:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: BTW its also toxic:huh: Likewise painting over modern paints I dont use sealer coats. Its not normally neccessary. And it doesnt adhere as good as 2K either. Then again I am normally on a deadline for getting paint jobs done. You appear to work at a more leasurely pace Graham so adding more coats isnt an issue for you!!:laugh::laugh: All IMO of course:yes:

2K regular primer/filler. apply several coats allowing each coat to flash off to avoid runs. Bout 4 good coats from a 1.4/1.8 nozzle will be good. allow to harden overnite. LIGHTLY sand with 600G/800G to smooth out any imperfections. Hit it with top coat.. If solid colour then 2K topcoat. or if metallic then appply basecoat and as soon as that has flashed off apply 2K clear coat. MS will be fine.

So on to todays work.... Just a little white paint to throw on, that wont take long eh??? WRONG. Its pearl white . My nemesis in the paint world. So step 1. rub down headlamps and 2nd hand roof vent. step 2. degrease with panel wipe. step 3. Paint with 2pack white primer step 4. then paint with white basecoat. step 5. paint with pearl basecoat. step 6. finish with 2pac clear coat. Result.. perfect... well not quite.. I put a little too much pearl of the roof scoop so it looks a little off shade. The problem with pearl whie is it takes differently on fibreglass and urethane panels to metal. So for an amateur like me getting it 100% is almost impossible. Since most people will see the roof scoop overtaking them at 100mph I can live with a little shading variation. While that lot is hardening off overnite i had a little play with the first splitter support rod. Looks like another scary job looming when I have to cut a hole in the slicktop roof. Probably measure THREE times and cut once! LOL! Anyway enough chat... here are the pics... enjoy.

Wow!! Wow!! Wow!! Suddenly I am tired of living in the UK Jealous doestnt start to describe the feeling... Thanks for sharing with us on a cold dark miserable UK day

The rear tray is already done... Cardboard template then cut ally to size.(Just dont tell Bob its done..sssshhhh) I will do the centre section the same. Or maybe plywood first then ally like the splitter. The usual rules apply.. Measure TWICE.....CUT ONCE!:yes: When??? This week... car is going on Sunday!:blink::blink:

Under tray goes back to rad support panel. Then the next section back to the engine crossmember. Third part runs from Hicas eliminator bar back to rear diffuser to eliminate the rear bumper " parachute" effect. Rest of the underside stays "as is"

We have decided to add some thin edging to WE dont catch it ourselves on the shins!!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271087123016?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

No. The viscous unit is sealed.

see previous post.:biggrin:

Splitter.... Mk2. Less extreme. We think this is the one to go to ally with now. That should be fun:blink:

As always Im listening to those who have relevant experience. The honest answer is... I dont know. Bob and me have no previous experience in this area. We have looked at other Time Attack cars and done some further internet research. I "think" it needs to be thin to split the air smoothly. Its not a spoiler. We are going to do this first one in the ally sheet we already have. Then we need to see if it feels good in testing. If so Bob has a contact for re doing one in Kevlar. If not then it will be back to the drawing board early next year. As said already Bob is picking the car up next weekend so I haven't a lot of time left to tidy up and finish off the work in hand.

yep I know Dave. But I question the validity by a guy(and a mate) who has virtually no experience of 300ZXs. I reckon we should have our own valuation officer.

Well it might be a BMW and it is probably pretty powerful and quick but its a four door Eurobox at the end of the day and as such its deadly dull and common. IMO of course Soz

I would have liked to have access to some Kevlar but hey ho!! Thanks for the offer re fasteners. Fibreglass using bi axial weave cloth would have been OK. However ally is easy and I can do it myself. I dont have time to wait for other people to make me stuff the car needs to be finished for next weekend. Car is required to be road legal/MOTd for some of the events planned. Im sure they do mate. However Bob n me are deffo not in the category "a lot of ppl":biggrin:

But Mike Harris is now in Aus and is essentialy a 240Z man. Dont see how thats going to work

Well here is another item in development that wont be to many peoples taste/liking!!:huh: So this is the first prototype....:biggrin: Shape/size etc NOT final yet. The final item will be in ally NOT plywood:innocent: I wont use gaffa tape to fit the finished item!:no: Its not pedestrian safe/friendly but the car doesnt get driven on the road nowadays so its fine. Fitting some edging temporary will get it thru an MOT... or just unbolt it.It will all be easily removable single handed for mainteance/emergency pit access. Will it work??? Well 90% of the Time Attack cars have similar items fitted and I have spent a lot of time in the paddock photographing them for reference. Its a splitter. It divides the air so that on top goes thru to the rad. The pressure on top is greater than the pressure of the air flowing under. The flat smooth plate goes all the way back to the engine crossmember So just one pic. And remember Im just lurking waiting to time attack anyone who says they dont like it:glare::glare::glare: pic................................... Im only kidding ... feel free to comment..........................:yes:.

Pah! All fixed now.......................................................

Well I will start tonights post on a high note................. The adjustable rods for the splitter arrived promptly. They are very nice indeed and should/will do the job.:clap: Things then go downhill As Bob lives so far from me many jobs get done "elsewhere" Now thats fine IF done properly. Here is one that wasnt.. The front tow eye.:huh: Located UNDER the car. UNSEEN and with a tiny eye hole. Just not good enough IMO.:no: So I now have the proper towing eye and Im locating it where any emergency trackside tow truck can see it and get to it quickly. more importantly when they pull on it the rope wont rip off the bumper.:glare: It really makes me mad. Its just as easy to do it right as wrong. What is even more annoying is that Bob will have paid good money for a poor job and now I have an extra job to put it right. And also.................................................... When Bob brought me the car a few weeks ago I noticed the previously immaculate fitted wings were.,. a little out of shape.:blink: Jacking the car up today reveals the full (horror) story....Car has been jacked up by trolley jack UNDER THE FRONT WINGS.:hammer: The wing edges and sill edge behind are mullered. MORE work now for me to put it back to its former glory. Im not happy...... at all:taz: Now where is that bottle of Rioja I bought earlier. I need a drink:sweatdrop:

FFS how unlucky is that. Sorry to hear this.

But you are buying wheels with + offsets...the bigger the number the further in they go so narrower track and potential fouling issues with big calipers

If you buy a set of wheels with the same offset front and rear then they are never going to be right.No matter what offset it is. What Joel says is more or less the correct spec offsets for a 300Zx. The front is always less than the back. Have the 2nd set got the same offset front and rear??

Your "weird" is our "normal":yes: Well you can please some of the people .... Its just another "function over form" issue mate. The headlamps save 5 to 6kg. That will allow the front splitter to be fitted without adding weight hopefullly. FYI neither Bob or me are that keen on them either.