Stephen

Why not do a proper job and get under there, clean and inspect. You won't get it all off particularly if your exhaust is old and rusty. But your going to reduce it. A little oil goes a long way, smoke wise.

Is it not the residual oil from where your oil cooled adapter was leaking? That would be about the right area.

It does indeed, we used to build and assemble hand rails etc on super yachts out of it.

Repair leak, change oil try again. Don't go driving it about with no oil.

Automatic or manual?

Pretty sure japspeed systems are 304. Certainly going to outlast a mild steel system but defiantly not rust proof. Even 316 will rust given time, Chinese 316 isn't quite the same either. Same as 4130 cromolly tube, get the proper stuff it's strong as ****, Chinese version, not soooo much.

Indeed, something I really want to have a crack at but I've got a few hurdles in the way including a serious lack of motivation at present. I could do with throwing a grand at the car atm and its money I really should be spending else where.

Looks like you had great fun, cheers for sharing Pete.

Computers...if in doubt consult your kids. :lol: Also I'm not ignoring your PM btw, my subs ran out and and I can only receive not send. I've been too tight to resub lol.

Even if the image has been modified in paint or the like, pretty sure the information (the image is made of) is still present, like layers. So whilst it may not be extremely simple you can reverse engineer the process and regain the original image. Is that correct?

If it's still here Bri and I and I can help let me know, I owe you one anyway.

Fair comment, but that air is all hot air isn't. But then I suppose if was pre rad for example it wouldn't have any cooling at idle. I haven't relocated mine and don't plan to tbf.

Pull cables though. Remove bulb. Forget.

Delicate electrical component poorly located from factory. I think you will find that the Americans had more issues because of climate differences, plus the buying power. Just look at how differently the EU and US market have been treated by VW of late... I think way to much blame gets put on this one part, the amount of threads that come up about poor running and it's become a go to, even when the systems are not "classic ptu". It's always a consideration, particularly if you have the original series 1 but it's certainly not the cursed hand grenade it's got the reputation for. I say if it works then leave it be, if it fails then either replace like for like or go series 2 depending on your desires/wallet. It may well become more economically viable to use the series 2 anyway, as I'm pretty sure it's from the RB engined cars of which there are way more of than Z32s.

You could fit a Jspec turbo elbow in that side to test, be a cheap option for a bit?

That's a shame, seen your car about. Was hoping you would attend Simply Japanese.

Has the injector been ohm tested?

Stop wearing girls jeans then. :lol:

Hrm, I would expect euro and UK to be the same, ie as spiff posted. Kinda hard to tell from the pics. Does the flange run parallel to the floor?

Is it a UK or JDM car bud?

:drool:

If it's an iPhone get an Otter box. I have mine in my pocket and use it at work, and I go some horrendous wet tight places. I use my phone when I'm fishing too and when I get a big slamming take and I'm "surfing the net" I tend to just throw it :lol: it has a tough life. Not broke it yet... Like this; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OtterBox-Rugged-Defender-Series-Case-Cover-Shell-For-iPhone-5-UK-/311442400123?nav=SEARCH

They are completely different to Jap spec. There's a new one on me. So it would appear it's only an issue for Jspec cars.

A Z32 without power steering isn't fun.

You can, and try this, it's free. Take the plug off and you will see the connection is rectangle with a gap, bend the tab in to make like an M shape. You will see what I mean. This will the grip the terminal and give you a better connection. May just keep you going temporary till you replace the plug itself.